Harbor Freight Electric Chain Saw Sharpener

[Tom Lewis]

Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) using the Harbor Freight Electric Chain Saw Sharpener? Thanks, Tom Lewis

[Raymond Overman]

Tom,

I bought one a while back and got it mounted. I fiddled with it for a few minutes with an old chain that I had laying around but have yet to sit down seriously with it and try to figure it out. First impression was that it's poorly made, flimsy, and some of the parts are not well fitted. It wasn't as intuitive as I thought it would be to get my chain sharpened.

Of course you get what you pay for and there's a reason that the HF model is $30-$40 and the Oregon model is $170.

[Clem Wixted]

Tom,

Jeff Jilg, a friend of mine, did a great write-up about this sharpener on the AAW web site a few years ago. I used to be an AAW member but dropped it. However you can still get on to their website, although I think you have to register.

I have that sharpener and it gets the job done when you understand it. Jeff does a great job of explaining just what you need to do to make it do a good job. It is also well illustrated. Even I could follow his instructions.

Clem

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=751

[Bill Arnold]

I have one and have used it three or four times. It took me a little bit to understand exactly how to use it. I'm not really the chain saw type! :eek: When I finally figured out how to set it up, it made quick work of sharpening.

[Keith Spaniel]

i have a HF sharpener. Its a little faster to use a file . But if you let your chain go along time without touching it up with a file you might need that sharpener.
What i dont like about it, is you have to take the chain off the bar to sharpen it,then turn it around again to sharpen the other side.
Its not difficult to set up though. The reason i got one was to change the angle on the teeth to rip boards out of logs.. Its not made in the usa but i think it will last my lifetime.hope this helps, keith

[William Bachtel]

Learn to use a file, follow a new tooth, that way you can keep the angle. Practice there is a short learning curve, but well worth it. You can make you own handle, softwood feels the best, cedar, butternut, etc. People are afraid to learn to file by hand, never could figure out why. Once you learn you will have a sharp saw in a minute.

[Terry Neumann]

I have heated with wood/solar for many years and have had much experience with commercial grade saws. Nothing beats a sharpening machine for bring a chain back to spec. I hand file in the field but when home again use a sharpening machine to get all the teeth even which keeps the saw cutting straight. They burn up more chain but when all the teeth cut equally, the saw cuts straight and not in a curve. I'm talking a saw with a 32" bar that can buck a 5' diameter tree into firewood.

[Richard Madison]

Granted that many folks do a touch up with a file in the field (folks field filing?), but seems like a good idea to remove the chain from the saw to avoid getting filings in the bar slot. I chuck the file in a cordless drill, hold the other end with a wood block, and clamp a few inches of chain in the vise. Imperfect and inexpensive. Usually have a couple of freshly sharpened chains on hand.

[Mike Ramsey]

Well I guess I'll be the odd ball but I have it & I LIKE it! It makes short
work (once you figure it out) of sharpening a chain saw blade, for me
it's a lot faster than doing it with a file & a lot easier than using the
dremel attachment.

[Rick Gifford]

Thought I saw the same post over at AAW forums.... any luck making a decision?

[Tom Lewis]

I did post a similar question on the AAW forum. Thanks to all who gave information as to your experiences and recomendations. As for now I think I will continue to use a dremel and a stone and not wait so long inbetween sharpenings.

[William Bachtel]

I have heated with wood/solar for many years and have had much experience with commercial grade saws. Nothing beats a sharpening machine for bring a chain back to spec. I hand file in the field but when home again use a sharpening machine to get all the teeth even which keeps the saw cutting straight. They burn up more chain but when all the teeth cut equally, the saw cuts straight and not in a curve. I'm talking a saw with a 32" bar that can buck a 5' diameter tree into firewood.


When a saw cuts right or left, its because you have sharpen it on one side, sharper than the other. We are either right handed or left handed, most people sharpen a chain sharper on the right side, leaving it sharper and leading to that side. Learn to sharpen both sides equal. It will lead to the sharp side. Right or left cutters. Hope this helps I run a 28 or 32 bar and have never used a grinder on chain in my life, I have cut timber for a living. I buy chain by the l00 foot rolls, and have only used a file. It is not hard to learn to do, but it has a learning curve like anything else.