Best way to set blade &/or bit height?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
What's the easiest most foolproof way to set both blade height on the TS and bit height on a table mounted router?

[Jamie Buxton]

For me, the best tool is a dial caliper. I set the caliper to read the depth I want. The caliper not only has jaws which are that distance apart, but also has a tail which sticks that distance out from the end. I rest the end of the caliper on a tip of the saw blade. I rock the blade back and forth to find where that tip is highest above the table, and then lower the blade until the caliper's tail just hits the table surface. All of this takes less time than it took me to write it out.

Dial calipers are available in all the woodworking catalogs. Imported stainless steel ones cost $30 or so, and they're perfectly good for woodworking. Me, I like decimal inch ones, but you can get them in fractional inches or millimeters.

[Tom Veatch]

Combination square with the blade extending from the head the same dimension desired for the height of the blade/bit above the table. End of blade flat on the table with square edge of head above the blade/bit. Raise the blade/bit until it just kisses the square.

[Nissim Avrahami]

I modified one caliper......and, still it can be used as...caliper...

As for the "how-to" please have a look here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37070

niki
97246

[Dave Stuve]

I use the set up block kit by Lee Valley, make a stack exactly the height I want, and put my straight edge on top of the stack and raise the blade/bit until it just touches it. Very accurate, although only in 16" increments (thinnest block in the kit.)

Another cool use - you can make the stack horizontal instead of vertical on the table and use it to accurately position fences too.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45089&cat=1,240,41064

Dave

[David DeCristoforo]

I use a Laser Triangulation Systems Microtrak 7000. It has a fluorescent LCD alphanumeric display, dual laser head, a menu-driven controller and only costs $12,000. This device is guaranteed to be accurate to within a nat's ass. But I always make a test cut just to be sure.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use brass set-up bars from Woodcraft, and a small combination square. That handles most everything that I ever have to set. One comment, though. Woodcraft sells 2 1/2" and 4" sets of set-up bars. Get the 4" set. I have one of each, and the longer length makes them a lot handier to use, particularly with the router table.

Doc

[Clifford Mescher]

I use a Laser Triangulation Systems Microtrak 7000. It has a fluorescent LCD alphanumeric display, dual laser head, a menu-driven controller and only costs $12,000. This device is guaranteed to be accurate to within a nat's ass. But I always make a test cut just to be sure.
Interesting. Where can I purchase one?:rolleyes: Clifford

[Bill Huber]

I bought a Wixey Digital Height Gauge and just could not so without it now.

It is very easy to use and I can go back and do repeat adjustments any time.
I use it on the TS, router table and base of the router. On the router table I use it for bit height and setting the fence.

http://www.wixey.com/heightgauge/index.html

[Joe Vincent]

I bought a Wixey Digital Height Gauge and just could not so without it now.

It is very easy to use and I can go back and do repeat adjustments any time.
I use it on the TS, router table and base of the router. On the router table I use it for bit height and setting the fence.

http://www.wixey.com/heightgauge/index.html


I have one as well and am glad I do.

[Myk Rian]

I made this. Works great, and it's simple.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodmag/151/images/tablesawbladebg.jpg

[glenn bradley]

I made this one a couple years ago on a whim and have used it almost daily ever since:

97260

HF caliper with the head cut off, scrap of 3/4" BB ply routed to fit caliper body and a flat stainless washer epoxied on as a "foot".

[Joe Scharle]

I bought a Wixey Digital Height Gauge and just could not so without it now.

It is very easy to use and I can go back and do repeat adjustments any time.
I use it on the TS, router table and base of the router. On the router table I use it for bit height and setting the fence.

http://www.wixey.com/heightgauge/index.html

Me too, I've made a few but the Wixey is VG. Mag base is handy for the TS & fence rail. I've made a couple over the years, but this is better. BTW, Wixey sent an email yesterday re: free shipping. Get one of the angle indicators as well.

[Joe Jensen]

Hello,
What's the easiest most foolproof way to set both blade height on the TS and bit height on a table mounted router?

I take scrap and test cut/adjust until perfect.

[Shawn Walker]

I use a Laser Triangulation Systems Microtrak 7000. It has a fluorescent LCD alphanumeric display, dual laser head, a menu-driven controller and only costs $12,000. This device is guaranteed to be accurate to within a nat's ass. But I always make a test cut just to be sure.

Thanks for the laugh... I'm having a really boring afternoon at work, and I needed it. :D

[Peter Quinn]

It depends on the level of precision I am looking for. I used to have a Laser Triangulation Systems Microtrak 7000. It had a fluorescent LCD alphanumeric display, dual laser head, and a menu-driven controller, but the kidney I traded to get it went bad (apparently 18 YR Bowmore is not an appropriate preservative for internal organs?" and I had to give it back.

If I need minimal precision I use something like a dial indicator or a combo square. If I need greater precision I use a height gauge or a set up blocks, as balancing a dial indicator or square near the blade trying to find TDC can be a troublesome affair fraught with inaccuracies. If I need real serious precision, I cut a scrap of plywood to the height I am after and set up to that. A ten inch long scrap eliminates that troublesome task of finding TDC and tends to be easier to balance on edge than the Laser Triangulation Systems Microtrak 7000.

Yes, a piece of scrap from the trash is often more accurate, cheaper, and easier to use than all the gizmos in the woodcraft catalogue.

Next issue...how flat is my wood? And how long will it stay that way?

[Brent Smith]

I use this http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30074&cat=1,240,41064&ap=1 and then a test cut.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I made this one a couple years ago on a whim and have used it almost daily ever since:

97260

HF caliper with the head cut off, scrap of 3/4" BB ply routed to fit caliper body and a flat stainless washer epoxied on as a "foot".I have also got one of those. I made a set of jigs, so I could mass produce them. I fasten caliper in with hot melt glue. If it fails, it is easy to get out and replace. I often wonder how I lived with out it.