Steve Schlumpf
09-20-2008, 11:59 PM
Took a couple of photos to show how simple it is to turn one of these.
I used 3/8” thick clear acrylic and cut it slightly oversized for the form it is to cover. Drilled a ¼” hole in the center of the acrylic and used a ¼”-20 bolt with locking nut to secure it to the Jacobs chuck. The chuck just clamps down on the lock nut and you screw the disk to the chuck until it is firm.
97225 97226
First step: round off the outside of the disk and turn to correct size. I used a bowl gouge as it is my go-to tool of choice but I am sure you can use any number of tools to get the job done. Just make sure to take light cuts and that your tool is sharp! You don’t have to worry about grain with acrylic but it will tear out if you use dull tools or get to aggressive.
97227
Second step: create a small step or lip on the inside edge of the disk – purpose is to help center the disk when on the form and also keep it from sliding off.
Third step: is to taper the outside edge of the disk. That’s hard to do with only 3/8” of material to work with but the idea is to taper the edge so that it blends into the existing curve of your hollow form or bowl.
Fourth step: sand the disk using all the grits necessary to remove any and all tool marks. This step is probably the most important step because if you don’t get all the scratches out they will become extremely noticeable once you buff the disk.
Fifth step: buff the disk using the red and white grits to remove all scratches. It is at this step that the edge of the acrylic becomes clear. I do not use the wax step as I glue in the finial and want a good clean area for the CA to grab onto.
97228 97229
Final product – the lid is displayed on a maple bowl that was turned last December (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71062). The finial is curly maple and has a couple of coats of gloss poly.
As always, your comments, critiques and opinions are welcome!
Thanks for looking!
I used 3/8” thick clear acrylic and cut it slightly oversized for the form it is to cover. Drilled a ¼” hole in the center of the acrylic and used a ¼”-20 bolt with locking nut to secure it to the Jacobs chuck. The chuck just clamps down on the lock nut and you screw the disk to the chuck until it is firm.
97225 97226
First step: round off the outside of the disk and turn to correct size. I used a bowl gouge as it is my go-to tool of choice but I am sure you can use any number of tools to get the job done. Just make sure to take light cuts and that your tool is sharp! You don’t have to worry about grain with acrylic but it will tear out if you use dull tools or get to aggressive.
97227
Second step: create a small step or lip on the inside edge of the disk – purpose is to help center the disk when on the form and also keep it from sliding off.
Third step: is to taper the outside edge of the disk. That’s hard to do with only 3/8” of material to work with but the idea is to taper the edge so that it blends into the existing curve of your hollow form or bowl.
Fourth step: sand the disk using all the grits necessary to remove any and all tool marks. This step is probably the most important step because if you don’t get all the scratches out they will become extremely noticeable once you buff the disk.
Fifth step: buff the disk using the red and white grits to remove all scratches. It is at this step that the edge of the acrylic becomes clear. I do not use the wax step as I glue in the finial and want a good clean area for the CA to grab onto.
97228 97229
Final product – the lid is displayed on a maple bowl that was turned last December (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71062). The finial is curly maple and has a couple of coats of gloss poly.
As always, your comments, critiques and opinions are welcome!
Thanks for looking!