Almost 514X2

[Burt Alcantara]

Only thing holding me up is how to get it into my tight basement and where to put it.

I'm thinking Lenox Tri ...metal/master??? What size to start with. Main cutting is big logs. I have 9 arm breaking logs to cut plus figuring out how I want to cut a 200# block of elm.

Any suggestions or tips appreciated.

Burt

[Steve Kohn]

So you want to haul a big honkin' saw into your basement? And then want to follow that by hauling some big honkin' logs into your basement to cut on the saw? And then you are going to haul all the resawn lumber out of your crowded basement because you don't have room to dry/store it?

Not being a wise guy but wouldn't it be better to leave the saw in the garage and do your resawing there?

[Burt Alcantara]

Getting the logs into the basement is no problem. Just throw it down the stairs and roll it up to the saw. Basement is temperate year round and very dry. My dust collector is down there and cutting logs makes a big mess so another reason for it to go downstairs.

Garage gets too hot in summer and too cold in winter. Basement temp is just right.

Honkin' Burt

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Burt,

First, the G0514X looks like a good bandsaw.

It weighs 383 lbs. I wouldn't hesitate to disassemble the table and possibly the motor to make it lighter. Then with the help of one person, slide it down the stairway on its spine...its back. The base on it has a lip that projects behind the spine. If you taped a piece of cardboard to the spine to act as bearing, you could "walk" it down the stairway on its spine, one step at a time. It would require the assistance of at least one other person. It wouldn't hurt to have a block and tackle or a "fence stretcher" or a chain hoist..or just a rope wrapped around something as a back up to keep it from getting away from you. The lip of the bottom base, because it sticks out beyond the spine would stop you at the next step provided you didn't let it get up a head of steam to begin with. You would have to pick it up to get the "lip' over the edge of the current step and then it would slide to the next.

I think it would be doable.

[Burt Alcantara]

Well, there's always movers. Since high school is in progress I suppose I could toss some money at a couple of linebackers too.

I was able to move all of my power tools into the basement by myself. They all came apart so that wasn't so bad. This one is a different beast.

Burt

[John Bush]

Hi Burt,
I have seen the Griz BS line-up at their showroom and they all seem to be great saws for the price. (I ended up getting the 21"er). It will be a bit of a chore to get it down your stairs but doable with a couple of strong backs from the HS football squad. I'd ask them to bring a couple of cheerleaders as well. I got a carbide coated blade from Griz(~~$80 ) and it worked well for a good bit of resawing, but slowly lost its bite. I bought a Lenox Woodmaster CT(~~$100) and it cuts beautifully and has lasted a long time. I had a Lenox Die-Master( the more expensive carbide tipped blade-- I may have the name wrong) for my previous 18" and the CT cuts just as well for ~30% less cost. You may want to consider that style for your new saw.

I would be interested in how others align their fences to the blade. I used to change the angle of the fence to match the blade, but now I parallel the fence to the miter slot and change the blade "angle", by adjusting the tilt of the top wheel, to get good parallel cuts. It can take a bit more time but I seem to get better, more consistent results. Thanks, JCB

[John Shuk]

Bandsaws are pretty easy to get into a basement. Take the table and motor off and you will have no problem using a hand truck and a helper.

[Burt Alcantara]

The table comes unattached. The motor weights 150 lbs. That's part of my worry. Unloosening the bolts and CRASH. Lifting it back in place and Ohhh my back!!!

Burt

[Dave Avery]

Burt,

I moved my G0513x2 down into the basement with only my wife (she's definitely not built like a linebacker, BTW) and a neighbor while it was still in the packing crate. Slide it on its spine over a sheet of ply laid in the stairs. It was EASY. The 600# jointer/planer was another matter altogether due to the size/shape of the box.

I have a 3/4" Lenox Trimaster on it and resawing is pure fun.......

Best. Dave.

[Burt Alcantara]

I'd like to hear more suggestions for a blade. I'm very partial to the Lenox Tri-Master but what width? 1/2, 3/4, 1"? The main use for the saw is resawing logs and boards. From what I hear, the Tri-Master lasts a long time so I'd like to have just one very good blade.

Burt

[Michael Lutz]

I lightened up my 0514X2 by removing both wheels and the trunion. I tried to remove the motor, but someone at the factory had tightened the screw on the motor pulley to tight. I was able to strap it to a hand truck and move it in to the basement. It still is heavy.

Mike

[Dave Norris]

Maybe I'm just a pansy... but have you given any thought as to how to cut the logs? I have the 514x2, and it resaws great (Timber Wolf blade), but I'm not sure how the table would handle 200#? I could easily be underestimating the machine though...

[Peter Quadarella]

The 514X2 has an even beefier trunion than the 513X2 (which I have), and I wouldn't worry about a 200lb log. Using infeed and outfeed support, it wouldn't even be holding that much.

[Burt Alcantara]

I'm not putting the 200 pounder on the bandsaw. It's too big in every which way. Firstly, it's a block. Secondly, I want to get at least one small table top, 4 turning blanks for hollow forms and boards for small boxes and the like.

Once I figure out the cut plan I'll reduce it with the Sthil. I still have 2 large maple logs and 7 log segments of Kentucky Coffee.

What's the best blade size, 1/2, 3/4 or 1"?

Thanks,
Burt

[Terry Stellman]

I thought the Tri-Master was NOT recommended for sawing green lumber as in logs?

Terry

[Chris Barnett]

Go for it if yours is still in warrantly, Grizzly would replace the table...don't ask how I know :D.