Green Green Glass of home

[David Dustin]

I am trying to lase on green wine bottles.
Text turns out OK, but any kind of image ends up being all melted together.

I have tried the default settings of 100% power and 60% speed all the way down to 6% power and 10% speed.

My image was converted using the "gold" method and is at 400 dpi.
Thanks,
David

[Doug Griffith]

I've read here on SMC that glass is best at 150DPI. You could try that.

[Darren Null]

I've never got any more than 150dpi on glass correctly. Try dropping the res of the *input* image. When you lase glass, it comes out in a conical chip, the net result of which is you're making your image from dots that are bigger than your beam. So you have to spread the dots further apart (ie, drop the resolution) to get a clear image.

EDIT: Too fast for me, Doug.
=8-)

[Doug Griffith]

I'm programming my next laser tool and cutting out a jillion holes from .060 plex at the same time. Popping over to SMC every now and then helps keeps me sane.

Cheers

[David Dustin]

Thanks guys, I had tried that too and it helped some.
I am also using my high density optics, is that OK or dumb?

How do you remove the rough edge of the glass from the lasing process?

Thanks,
David

[Darren Null]

In theory, you might get smaller chips from using the high density optics, in practice, I suspect it doesn't make much difference.

I remove the excess chippage by running it under the tap and gently using a soft cloth (not the washing-up cloth after the bollocking I got the first time from she who must be obeyed (and sometimes run away from)).

[Dee Gallo]

Funny thing, Darren, my husband gave me her sweatshirt last year.... people always look twice when they read it. Go Rumpole!

[Rodne Gold]

The rough edges are caused by uncontrolled fracturing adjacent to the area the beam strikes , you need a "heat sink" . So laser thru wet news/toilet paper , it localises the chipping and stops the uncontrolled fracture.
We use scotch pads to remove "splintering" of the glass after lasering and we use eithe silver or white gilders paste (similar to rub n buff but a WHOLE lot cheaper and better to use) rubbed into the lasered area to make it "whiter"
I would , as others have said , drop the DPI majorly. even 75 or 50 dpi works well.

[Mike Mackenzie]

We have had very good results using application tape to reduce the chipping effect. Once the laser process is complete take it to the sink and use the scothbrite to clean.