Can I make my own stair treads?

[James White]

I have enough 5/4 x 4 to make all of the stair treads that I need. Is it advisable to do this. Will they last. I need an 11 1/4" finished size. So I was thinking to rip the pieces to three inches and laminate them. Is there anything special considerations in constructing them? Special glues? Do I need to use biscuits?

The oak is from the trees felled from my building lot. Therefore there is allot of color and grain variation (i am a newbie sawyer). Should I attempt to match grain and color or accept that they will vary and go for a more random look. My floors are 3 1/4" oak. So perhaps they will match that look.

James

[Jamie Buxton]

Yes, you can make your own treads. I've made them myself. I'd use titebond, like I do in most woodworking, but lots of folks prefer titebond II. I wouldn't bother with biscuits. I'd just butt-glue the lumber.

Umm...this wood is dry, isn't it? You mention that you harvested it, but you don't mention that you dryed it. The wood must be dry before you use it for treads.

[Greg Cole]

The egde glue joint is plenty, biscuits are used by some for alignment helpers.
The look of the treads is subjective. Up to you to either grain match or match the existing floor. Were it me, I'd match the floor and call it done.
Definately make sure the stock is dry with a moisture meter.
Also dig around for info on installing them (there's a good bunch of it here)... rise n run, construction adhesive (PL is the good stuff) etc etc etc. Stair building is a craft of its own, even making and installing basic treads.

Greg

[James White]

Yes the wood is dry. I built a small kiln in my basement this winter. I had a total of about 600 bf dried. Most of it was used to trim my window. There is just enough left for the treads and risers. It took a long time to separate all of it into what would be used for trim and what was suitable for the stair elements. I have built stairs before. So I am good with that part. Only I have only done one balustrade before. About 13 years ago. My uncle was the lead on that tough. I hope I can get it rite. I have two to do. Thank you for your inputs. Much appreciated.

James

[Frank Drew]

James,

You could probably save some material by using as much you could get out of the 4" width so you'd only need three pieces in your glue up.

[Alan Schaffter]

I built the stairs to my above-garage shop(treads and risers) from white oak that was harvested and saved when they cleared the lot for my new house. I had it bandmilled, stacked and stickered it, and let it dry for nearly a year first. I used 5/4 boards, laminated up when necessary, that had knots and other imperfections- the quality of the oak wasn't the best- it had "character," but it was cheap!!!

You need to be careful how you construct and glue everything or you will get a lot of squeaking. I dadoed the underside of the treads to accept the risers and to allow for shrinkage of the risers, but just pocket screwed the bottom of each riser to the top of the tread below it. Everything else was glued and nailed together and to the stair framing. So far (two years later) no squeaks.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P10101241.JPG

I also made the door from the same oak.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/Trim-3.JPG

[James White]

Frank,

I wasn't being accurate when I described the material I have to work with. It is all still in the rough state as far as width goes. The usable portions vary from 3-8 inches. Therefore three inches will get the most out of the material.

Allan,

Nice job! I like that door.

I plan on using a tongue and groove both at the back of the tread/face of the riser and at the top of the riser/bottom of the tread. Small pieces of cove will conceal the joints.

James

[Simon Dupay]

Frank,

I wasn't being accurate when I described the material I have to work with. It is all still in the rough state as far as width goes. The usable portions vary from 3-8 inches. Therefore three inches will get the most out of the material.

Allan,

Nice job! I like that door.

I plan on using a tongue and groove both at the back of the tread/face of the riser and at the top of the riser/bottom of the tread. Small pieces of cove will conceal the joints.

James
when making treads you will get better use if random widths instead of ripping them all to 3". I don't think you need to do the whole tongue and groove deal I've made hundreds of treads and risers without a tongue and groove.

[James White]

when making treads you will get better use if random widths instead of ripping them all to 3". I don't think you need to do the whole tongue and groove deal I've made hundreds of treads and risers without a tongue and groove.


Simon,

I thought since the grain/color pattern would not be matched. The individual pieces would stand out and therefore random widths would look "off".

So you just butt the tread to the riser? Last night after thinking about Alans post. I think the dado at the underside of the tread is a good idea. To conceal the joint. However it got me thinking that perhaps it is best to leave this joint without glue. That would allow the riser to expand and contract freely. In other words avoid it splitting if it wants to contract. since it is glued to the tread below. Anyone have an opinion on this?

James

[Richard Wolf]

The dado under the tread is very old school, not that it is a bad idea, just one that is seldom practiced anymore. Standard practice today is to butt joint and cover with cove molding, which is a much better look. Your choice on the cove, oak or paint grade with paint grade risers. However, the joint between the riser and tread should be glued and reinforced with glue blocks on the inside. If they are not glued you will very likely develop squeaks in that location. Treads rubbing on risers are the most common cause for squeaks in staircases.

Richard

[James White]

Thank you to all who contributed. I will attempt to post some photos of the completed stairs. I don't particularly care for the look of oak. But hay, its a very good material for floors and stairs. Best of all it was free (from our building lot). Unless you count all of the hours milling, drying, jointing/planing. I am quite happy with the results. This is stained Early American (Duraseal) with no poly for now.

This is my first time sharing photos. With trying to get the house done. I have not had time to figure it out. I hope this works.

[Richard Wolf]

Looks like you did a nice job. Well done.

Richard

[Michael Donahue]

Very nice work :cool:

[James White]

Thanks Guys. It feels good to hear it from fellow woodworkers. We are new to this state. Up until now I have had, only my wife to share my accomplishments with.

James

[Peter Quinn]

Beautiful stairs James. And your cat is very photogenic in both posts!