?? MDF for TS insert ??

[Brian Hale]

Is MDF a good choice for my TS inserts?

Thanks

Brian :)

[Chris Padilla]

MDF is extremely stable...extremely flat...easy to machine cleanly...dusty like the dickens...very smooth...doesn't take screws very well...very cheap.

What do you think? ;)

[Todd Burch]

MDF would work fine for an insert, as would plywood or solid wood, although it would not be my first choice. I've seen woodworkers in other countries who made their own tablesaw, and didn't even HAVE a throat place - just a big 'ol hole.

I would use 3/4" MDF and rabbet the underside edge to sit on the side supports. 1/2" MDF would probably work too, but I would prefer the more heavy 3/4" variety. Another idea would be to use your dado blade to relieve the area, underneath, where the blade will cut through. You'll get some burning in first cut-through, but it you start with a full kerf blade, and then move to a thin kerf, you will be fine.

[Alan Turner]

My choice for inserts is 12MM BB plywood. On my Unisaw, and I suppose on most other saws, there are allen head socket screws that level the insert to the table top, which is quite important. The BB provides good solid threading for these screws, while MDF would be less effective on that issue.
Alan

[JayStPeter]

My inserts are either 1/2" MDF or 1/2" BB depending what I have around when I need a new one. Both work fine. I use leveling screws for all of them. While it's true that MDF doesn't take screws as well as some things, it does take them. Just pre-drill and you're fine. Especially with inserts. The little screws you use don't really have to have much holding power. I also use small screws in the sides to take up any slop in in the insert.

As for screws in MDF: I had a shelving unit about 48"hx18"wx24"d. It was a bottom, top and 2 shelves all butt-jointed and screwed together MDF (no glue). The MDF was 3/4 and was screwed with (4) 1 1/4" drywall screws per side per shelf. No back. It was solid as a rock 5 yrs later. I wasn't easy on it either. It was in my shed (no heat/AC). I would still have it but had to make some decisions when things wouldn't fit into the moving van. Screws do work in MDF if you're careful.

Jay St. Peter

[Mike Leonard]

I just made a zero clearance insert from a scrap piece of corian. Drilled and tapped the holes and used 1/4-20 set screws for leveling. Works great.

[Brian Hale]

Thanks folks!

I think i'll give it a go with 1/2" since i have a few chunks laying around. Maybe the next big box trip will include some 3/4 to try...

Brian :D

[Jim Becker]

I use 1/2" MDF scraps for table saw inserts, although I find I have to slightly shim them higher (or use allen screws for height adjustment). I cut out a bunch "outside the line" on the bandsaw and then use a master made from the OEM insert to pattern route them to correct size. I put a couple coats of paste wax on them to slick them up a little. Do remember to put a cut-off nail in the rear edge of the inserts to insure that the blade cannot lift the back of the insert up out of the table.

[Steve Beadle]

I just made a zero clearance insert from a scrap piece of corian. Drilled and tapped the holes and used 1/4-20 set screws for leveling. Works great.
Hey! Thanks for the idea! I have a chunk of Corian laying around, wondering what to do with itself. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier.

Steve

[James Carmichael]

Once you get a good fit, you might want to keep that one as a template and make several more to have blanks ready for when you have a new need, like a different dado width or bevel cut.

[Larry Browning]

I have used one of those white plastic kitchen cutting boards from wal-mart. They cost about 7 buck and you can get 2 inserts out of one cutting board. Works great!

Larry