Need advice on glue-line crosscut blade for RAS

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,

I’m in the process of refinishing a small antique wall clock that has a front door that has two hinges on one side to open it to get to the pendulum, etc. The problem is that the door is too tight at both the top and bottom, and so as it opens and closes, it “scrapes” the wood at both the top and bottom of the clock carcass. The door is about 12 inches wide.

I have a 10 inch Craftsman RAS, and my thought is that if I remove the door and trim off (by crosscut) about a 1/16 to 1/8 inch off both the top and bottom, it won’t scrape anymore. But at the top and bottom of the door, the wood is thin mahogany, and I don’t want to take a chance of tearing the edges that I cut.

I don’t want to try to sand it, because all that I have is a palm sander, and I don’t think that I can sand a line straight enough that’s 12 inches wide.

So, my question is, what is the best quality crosscut glue-line quality blade that I can buy for this purpose? Remember, this is for a radial arm saw, not a table saw.

Thanks,
Louis

[scott spencer]

Hi Louis, I think you might be better off trimming the door with a low angle block plane as opposed to sawing it....food for thought.

[Louis Brandt]

I can't use a block plane, because even though the middle portion of the door is only about 3/4 inch thick, both edges of the door have turnings built into them, as shown in the photos. The turnings are much thicker, so with a block plane, I'd have a problem getting them cut down properly.
Louis

[Peter Quinn]

I think the term glue line does not apply here, as a 'glue line' quality cut is a hidden cut, not a finish quality cut. Glue line cuts will be buried and clamped, any minor deviations filled with glue and crushed in the process.

Take a look at Forrest Chopmaster blades for the RAS for a very smooth finish cut, or contact Wolfe Machinery for suggestions they may have (RAS specialists). I use a Freud LU91 on my SCMS that produces cuts so smooth they look polished, I believe that tooth geometry is also appropriate for the RAS. A fresh table top or some sort of backer below the work will help minimize chip out.

My first suggestion was a low angle block plane, but that has been mentioned. Quicker, cleaner, more accurate. If the door closes at all, its probably not far from where it needs to be. A big sanding block with some sticky back paper in grits 80-120 might be in order. You could use a shooting board to guide the sanding block or plane as needed, or even a palm sander. If you can scribe the line you need to remove, a router with a flush trim bit and a board to guide it can be very effective at taking off a small amount of material.

Honestly for fine tuning delicate work power tools are my last option.

[Loren Hedahl]

I would think a good way might be to clamp a small hardwood strip on the cut line, then follow along the strip with a Japanese pull saw. Even the ones at HD for about $20 do a really nice job.

[John Eaton]

Glue a sheet of 60 grit to a board. Rub the edge until you hit your mark moving back and forth, using a sawing motion. You'll be surprised at how fast it removes stock. Work down the scratches and reapply finish. This is the safest route to go, IMHO.

-- John

[Jeff Bratt]

I think you should reconsider the block plane suggestion for two reasons:
1) The photos show the edges of the doors - including the turnings - is all end grain. A low angle block plane really is perfect for this task (plane in from both ends). The plane does not need to be wider than the turning to work well. Plus in the first photo, it looks like the wood panel extends slightly beyond (at least one of ) the turnings. Trimming the central panel may be enough.
2) If the doors already close (with scraping) you want to trim a lot less than 1/8", more like 1/32". This will be difficult with a hand saw.

But if not using a plane, I would sand...

[J.R. Rutter]

I would be tempted to put Woodworker's Supply's (no affiliation) sanding disk on the saw and use it to sand in a straight line. I use one on a table saw to precision sand 5-pc drawer faces to final height and flush up the rail/stile joints. Works well. It has a 3 deg. taper on the face of the disk so that you don't catch the edge of the paper. Tilt the RAS head 3 deg to compensate. The actual contact is a radial line fron the arbor to the edge of the sanding disk, so the abrasives are moving parallel to the work edge.
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=95-430&search=95430

[Vince Shriver]

I make a sanding block from a sanding belt (the one that goes on a Makita or Porter Cable belt sander) and cutting a 2x4 to length to fit snuggly inside the belt. Use it the same as you would use a hand plane. This looks like a good application for that here.