What kind of finish for a cedar vase?

[Tom Lewis]

I am making a vase out of cedar. What kind of a finish would you recomend? In the past I have had bad luck with finishes on cedar as the oil in the cedar harms the finish.
Awhile back a friend gave me some old cedar stumps to burn in my wood burning fireplace. They were old and looked liked they were full of severe cracks. I cut into one and found the inside to be solid. Now I need to come up with a good finish.
I wonder what kind of finish is put on cedar chests?

[Dick Strauss]

Tom,
I've had good luck with using lacquer to finish a few eastern red cedar pieces.

[David Hullum]

I second lacquer I have had great luck with it keeping the red color. I keep them out of the sun also.:D

[Ben Gallagher]

I have had good luck with boiled linseed oil applied heavily while on the lathe and rubbed in with pressure, followed immediately with a light coat of Tung oil, also appied with pressure. After drying for at least 12 (preferably 24) hours, at least two more light coats of Tung oil were applied. The blo brings out the color well.

[Bernie Weishapl]

On Cedar I have had good luck with both lacquer and Minwax Antique oil.

[Jon Lanier]

I know it is not as durable. But I do believe the best finish for cedar is Shellac.

-Jon

[Steve Schlumpf]

Tom, I've turned some of our local white cedar, which doesn't have the colors or oils of the eastern or western cedars, and finished all of them with Watco 'Natural' Danish Oil. I was going for a very soft finish, minimal gloss, and it worked out just fine for me.

[Tony Wheeler]

I use a a coat or two of lacquer thinned down at least 50 % with a couple of coats to seal the colors then what ever finish that I choose which is mostly tounge oil

[Rich Stewart]

I have several cedar bowls that were Beall buffed only. No finish. They shine up really nice. I also did some bracelets and just buffing them looks real nice.

[Rich Stewart]

Also, Carol Valentine told me a long time ago that if you put any finish on cedar, you lose that great cedar smell. She was right and for that reason I never put any kind of finish on cedar. Just buff it out. Looks great.

[robert hainstock]

Has anyone expierenced Oxidation discoloration on naturaly finished aromatic ceder? Seems like I remember that happening to th inside of a cedar chest over the years. :eek::eek:
Briwax makes a prodct called "Teak oil" for oily woods.
Bob

[Tom Lewis]

Rich, I followed your advice and buffed out a cedar bowl. It looks great and it still has that cedar smell. Thanks for the suggestion!

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Yes Bob the rich red color will disappear quite quickly, both by UV light discoloration and also oxidation, depending on the light intensity it will turn brown in a matter of 2 to 3 years or less.
I had one Olsonick style Eastern Red Cedar (Juniper really) candle holder in a gallery where it was prominently displayed with light shining onto it, the color was gone in short order and the candle bend because of the continues warming of the light, :-((
But even in normal light conditions the color will change fairly quickly as will the smell get less and less, sanding will bring some back but for a shorter time.

Oh yes don't use a oil finish on it, the natural oil of the wood and the added oil finish will not work together. shellack or lacker will work, but will seal in the smell.

[Mike Ramsey]

I've turned several things out of Mtn Cedar posts, it is aromatic, I usually
use the submarine method, put it in a tupper ware bowl, fill it with danish
oil, put something with weight to keep it from floating, put the lid on,
take it out 24 hrs later let it dry then buff. It really shines like a new penny. I have some from 2 yrs ago & the shine is still there.