Straight Edge for Jointer set-up

[Porter Bassett]

OK, my jointer now has a motor, and the knives have been sharpened. Now it's time for me to set it up.

But first, I need a good straight edge.

But how good of a straight edge do I need?

Do I need to buy an $80 straight edge from rockler or woodcraft, or is there something less expensive that will fit the bill?

[Brian Kent]

These work well, for less $. I use the 36" and just keep it out of he way to protect it when not in use:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313

[Wilbur Pan]

I used a four foot level from the Borg. Seemed to do the job well enough, but then again I know that I am going to be going over any machine jointed surfaces with a hand plane.

[rob mason]

I have a Jet JJ6csx (I think thats the model) and need new knives. Are you using the straightedge to install the knives or to make sure the beds are coplaner?
I'm seriously considering spending the money on the jointer pals...

[Peter Quadarella]

I use this one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20044

It's not steel, but I just try not to bang it up.

[Steve Clardy]

I've always used a 4-foot aluminum level

[Howard Acheson]

I'm with Wilber. Go to a store that has a selection of 48 levels. Keep matching them edge to edge until you find a pair that matches perfectly. Turn them over and match again. You will generally finish a pair on the first try. Buy either one.

A 48" level will be more than straight enough to set up you jointer and check flatness and straightness of other tools or work. Just don't bang it around.

[Chris Gombola]

I use the oneway multi gauge as well with jointer setup. It doesn't take the place of a long straightedge but it helps with knife alignment.

[Tom Esh]

I have the 4' steel from Lee Valley. Accurate but a heavy beast. If I had it to do over I'd go with their aluminum. Easier to handle and it won't scratch up your tables or ding the knives as easily.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Buy a copy of John White's book, "Care and Repair of Shop Machines." He shows how to make a "master bar" using MDF, and drywall screws. The book is about $20.

[Lee Hingle]

I have the 4' steel from Lee Valley. Accurate but a heavy beast. If I had it to do over I'd go with their aluminum. Easier to handle and it won't scratch up your tables or ding the knives as easily.

Tom,
Do you mean their 3 foot steel straightedge, or am I missing something? I didn't see a 4 ft steel last time I looked. If so, please point me in the right direction....
Thanks,
Lee

[john bateman]

I have one of those $30 aluminum straightedges. I recently had to buy some 1/8" x 2" aluminum stock at Home depot. It's about $10 for a 3ft length. When I butted it up against my straightedge, I couldn't get a .002" feeler gauge between them.

Just as straight for 1/3 the cost.

[Eric Franklin]

I have this set from Garrett Wade.

http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=107414

[Tom Esh]

Tom,
..I didn't see a 4 ft steel last time I looked. If so, please point me in the right direction....
Lee

I'm sure it's 4 - the same size as the yardstick it's hanging next to ...oh, wait. :D

[Per Swenson]

You all making guns and motors?
No? cutting wood. I see.
Listen to Mr Clardy.
Use a 4' level and if you don't have that rip a piece of mdf on the table saw
to 3 inches.
When you go to set your knives look here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20579&highlight=magnets

Per

[Porter Bassett]

When you go to set your knives look here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=magnets (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20579&highlight=magnets)
Oh my stars, that's brilliant!. Thank you!

[Chris Padilla]

I understand where Per is coming from: wood moves and doesn't require the tolerances of building the Space Shuttle. However, why not dial in your woodworking MACHINES to better tolerances?

I think a precision straight-edge is a valuable tool in ANY shop (wood or metal) and you'll find lots of uses for them. Personally, I have 2 of them:

The 50" aluminum one from Lee Valley and a 36" steel Starrett. The LV gets the most use because (a) it is lighter, (b) it won't damage jointer blades, and (c) it is longer. :)

[Per Swenson]

Don't get me wrong,
I have tons of precision instruments.
But often in our lust to acquire fancy precise stuff we lose sight
of the original objective. To build something.
What one needs and what one wants are rarely the same thing.
For instance, when I go to work I have two squares.
A swanson speed and a small adjustable. At home I have over 50.
Because I collect them.
So, if a fella comes lookin for information about jointer setup or
any tool set up for that matter, I think they should be informed
that it can be done with out a large investment.
I am by no means implying there is a right or wrong way, that's a matter for your wallet and your decision making process.
Next time I will refrain from being so snotty.

Per

[Glenn Clabo]

I'll second this.

[Clifford Mescher]

I understand where Per is coming from: wood moves and doesn't require the tolerances of building the Space Shuttle. However, why not dial in your woodworking MACHINES to better tolerances?

I think a precision straight-edge is a valuable tool in ANY shop (wood or metal) and you'll find lots of uses for them. Personally, I have 2 of them:

The 50" aluminum one from Lee Valley and a 36" steel Starrett. The LV gets the most use because (a) it is lighter, (b) it won't damage jointer blades, and (c) it is longer. :)
I agree. People spend alot of money on Festool and fancy european tools and then use MDF and cheap levels for straightedge? Clifford

[Per Swenson]

Clff,

I fail to grasp your implication.
Are you assuming that I on one hand use expensive tools but advocate
using what ever is on hand to get the job done?
Your right.
Then again, I have been in the construction business for 32 years, and before that was my fathers shop boy.
So I allow my self some frivolities.
None of this has to do with my central point.
I am thrifty, before I buy a 80 dollar straight edge,
I'll buy 80 bucks worth of wood and use whats on hand to set that jointer...
Because I know how.

Per

[Chris Padilla]

How about this:

Borrow a straight-edge, take it to your trusty Big Box store, and keep checking levels until you find a nice flat one that can be used as a straight-edge and you are set (until you drop it, perhaps).

Or, borrow a straight-edge, and then make a buncha MDF, scrap wood ones.

The point we are all making and the point of a chat site like this is to read and learn about all the different ways to skin a cat. Some skinning ideas can cost more than other skinning ideas but the idea is to skin that cat! We all have different goals and aspirations and skill levels when it comes to skinning and so that is why it is good to get different ideas and then find the idea or ideas that suit your taste and work for you.

Peace!

[Anthony Anderson]

Actually, I like Per's glass and magnets set-up. Ingenious. I am going to make this and use it, as it will save me a ton of time, when adjusting jointer knives. I would have never thought of this. I have always used a 4' level, and it has always worked for me, but takes extra time. But the glass and magnets will make the job MUCH easier. As Per said, what one wants and what one needs are rarely the same thing. I WANT one of those fancy straight edges, but I don't NEED it. I get great results using my 4' level.

On another front. Clifford, I see why Per buys Festool, and SawStop for that matter. It works for him, and allows him to do the job faster, and better, and safer, which means more work will come his way, rather than go to his competitor, and means more money in his pocket. Exactly the point why he posted the glass and magnets idea. It is not a matter of how costly something is, you don't have to spend the money, if something will work faster and better. And I believe the magnets and glass will work faster and better, and since I have used my level, and a feeler gauge, I know that will work. So the combination will of the two, glass w/magnets and level, is a great idea, and saves time and money. Your post seemed a little rude. Perhaps I read it the wrong way. Per has been a long time poster/member her, as well has his Dad. He was trying to help fellow members by passing information/techniques, of which I will benefit. I think he deserves respect. As does everyone here. I don't say this to upset or offend. Sincerely, Bill

[Porter Bassett]

Heh. If I had a straight-edge that I could borrow, I'd just use it to set up my jointer.

But I liked the level suggestion. Next time I get to a big box store, I'll try to find a straight level and buy it. That should be plenty good for my needs.

[Chris Padilla]

Heh. If I had a straight-edge that I could borrow, I'd just use it to set up my jointer.

But I liked the level suggestion. Next time I get to a big box store, I'll try to find a straight level and buy it. That should be plenty good for my needs.

True but you may need to check your jointer every once in a while plus when you have a nice straight-edge reference, you'll start grabbing it to check all sorts of things. They are very handy to have around the shop.

[Clifford Mescher]

Actually, I like Per's glass and magnets set-up. Ingenious. I am going to make this and use it, as it will save me a ton of time, when adjusting jointer knives. I would have never thought of this. I have always used a 4' level, and it has always worked for me, but takes extra time. But the glass and magnets will make the job MUCH easier. As Per said, what one wants and what one needs are rarely the same thing. I WANT one of those fancy straight edges, but I don't NEED it. I get great results using my 4' level.

On another front. Clifford, I see why Per buys Festool, and SawStop for that matter. It works for him, and allows him to do the job faster, and better, and safer, which means more work will come his way, rather than go to his competitor, and means more money in his pocket. Exactly the point why he posted the glass and magnets idea. It is not a matter of how costly something is, you don't have to spend the money, if something will work faster and better. And I believe the magnets and glass will work faster and better, and since I have used my level, and a feeler gauge, I know that will work. So the combination will of the two, glass w/magnets and level, is a great idea, and saves time and money. Your post seemed a little rude. Perhaps I read it the wrong way. Per has been a long time poster/member her, as well has his Dad. He was trying to help fellow members by passing information/techniques, of which I will benefit. I think he deserves respect. As does everyone here. I don't say this to upset or offend. Sincerely, Bill
Didn't mean to sound rude. There are many ways to skin a cat, I just like the idea of having a "standard" to check my other tools. When one tool is dropped or abused I use straightedge to compare. Same with squares. Have a standard square that I compare everyday squares. Hope I made myself more explicit. Sorry if trampled on sensitivities.Clifford