Electrical Question

[Steve Roxberg]

SWMBO has requested (that means I'm doing it) two new lights. These are the puck style lights that will fit inside two kitchen cabinets on each side of the sink. They will be mounted on the top and will point down as designed.

My question is this:

The lights come with normal lamp style cords. One of them will not be long enough to reach the power source. What is a good way to splice this cable to make it about four feet longer?

I was thinking about using some crimp connectors, and then wrapping that with electrical tape.:confused:

[Todd Burch]

If low voltage, I would solder and use shrink tubing. If 110V, I would go into the fixture (take it apart) and replace the cord, unless you want an extension cord or an extra juction box.

You didn't mention if the cords would be behind walls or not.

But I'm no electrician either.

Todd.

[Steve Roxberg]

They are 12O volt, but I could use a low voltage unit My only problem there is where to put the humming transformer.

My first thought was to rewire the unit, but alas the manufacturer has ensured that I can't get into to unit. So that's not an option.

The cords will be run along the cabinet back, then along the wall over the top of the window frame into the next cabinet.

Do you think solder and shrink connectors would work with 120V?

[Jim Izat]

Will the cords be visible?

Jim Izat

[Randy Miller]

Originally posted by Steve Roxberg
They are 12O volt, but I could use a low voltage unit My only problem there is where to put the humming transformer.

My first thought was to rewire the unit, but alas the manufacturer has ensured that I can't get into to unit. So that's not an option.

The cords will be run along the cabinet back, then along the wall over the top of the window frame into the next cabinet.

Do you think solder and shrink connectors would work with 120V?

I would not use this for 120V -- I'm no electrician, but as I recall the code says that any connection/junction must be enclosed in a box. My understanding is that these produce some heat and you don't want that creating a problem. Could you hide a junction box above the cabinet?

Or, go the low voltage route - The back of a lower cabinet also makes a great place for a humming transformer ;-)
Good luck,
Randy

[Bob Lasley]

Steve,

You can use crimp connectors or you can solder the connections. Tape will work, but shrink tube is better. Be sure to insulate each wire seperately and then both together (I know that's obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people don't get it). If you use tape, get a high quality electrical tape such as Scotch 33 or 88.

Good luck,
Bob

[Steve Roxberg]

The wires won't really be visible.

Junction box is out, I don't know where I could put one, Maybe in the top back of a cabinet. It might not show too bad, but like a woodworking error, I'd always see it.

I think, I'll look into low voltage as a first option, and then do the junction box, Better safe than sorry.

Thanks guys.

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Cut the plug off the "short" lamp and cut the socket end off an extension cord of the appropriate length. Extension cords are cheap and are used to make "extensions". Hence, use it to make the extension for the "short" lamp.

Proceed as outlined by the other guys.
I personally like Bob Lashley's fix.
:cool:

[Rob Russell]

Steve,

Reading through this thread, a couple of questions come to mind.

<ol><li>You are installing <i>"puck style lights ... inside two kitchen cabinets ... will be mounted on the top and will point down"</i>, to highlight your key points. Does that mean these lights are for illuminating the inside of the cabinets when you open the doors? If not, what does it mean?</li>
<li>Are these lights being hardwired in or are they "cord and plug" connected to the power supply? Do the manufacturer's <i>"normal lamp style cords"</i> have plugs on the ends?</li>
<li>How are you turning the lights on and off?</li>
<li>Do you want to wire this to meet NEC requirements?</li></ol>
I ask the above questions because installing lights in an enclosed space has additional requirements in the NEC. FYI, an unprotected crimp and tape splice violates the NEC.

Addy protocol: experienced but unlicensed homeowner electrician, tool nut, woodworker

Rob

[Steve Roxberg]

I would like this to meet NEC if possible.

1. The lights will illuminate the inside of the cabinet for display. the doors have glass panels that will allow my wife's display items to been seen.

2. The light as the come from the manufacturer are intended to be plugged into an outlet.

3. The original installation had under cabinet flourscent lights that were switch operated on a 120v circuit. I have removed the flourscent lights and replaced them with 120v puck lights. The romex left the wall cavity and went directly into the old fixtures. I've placed a shallow surface mount wall box over these wires. I then cut the and stripped the normal cord (looks like lamp cord) and used wire nuts to connect it to the romex. The braided copper didn't work too well with the nuts, so I tinned the ends of each line with some solder to keep them together. I then put the nuts into the box, and screwed on a cover. This appears to be working great.

The upper cabinets on both sides of the sink have glass doors and will soon have glass shelves. I plan to mount these lights on the top pointing down. These are only 20 watt halogen bulbs, so not lots of power.

I believe I'm going to purchase some 12 volt lights and run them instead of 120 for these two lights. I do plan to snip the plug and wire it into one of the old 120 lines so that they too will be switch operated.

These lights are for display only, and will only be on when entertaining, or dining.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.