First Router Table

[Burt Alcantara]

I have a Bosch 1617ev(?) that serves me very well. My first table will be a laminated board with the router stuck to it. I'll build as needs arise.

The main purpose of the table is to create joinery for small boxes.

I vaguely remember a PC model that acted as a lift. Since I don't follow router news I don't know what's out there. If these "lift" types exist are they of any value or does one just buy a regular lift?

I'm still mystified about router plates and how to install one in my board.

Suggestions and recommendations greatly welcomed.

Thanks,
Burt

[Eric Larsen]

You're in luck, Burt.

I have that router, and Bosch makes an under-table mount -- RA-1165 -- that costs around $50 and does a great job. One of the best purchases I ever made. If you decide down the road to get one of the expensive primo units that let you change bits without kneeling at the table (or removing the router), no big deal, right?

[Bill Huber]

The RA-1165 is a nice little lift for a small table, I had one for a year before I got my Jessem left.

One thing you need to do with the Bosch base it to put a collar on it and some nylon washers.

See this thread for details
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62437


96840

[Burt Alcantara]

Exactly what I was looking for. Just ordered it on Amazon.

Now, can I attach this to my table board or should I use a ???. If I use the ??? method how do I do that?

Thanks,
Burt

[Eric Larsen]

I mounted mine to my table directly. But I think that's dumb. I could make a plate out of Lexan, which I find easy to work. But I want to be able to use various collets with my setup. And I think phenolic is the proper material for this application.

Besides, I'm getting quite sick of kneeling and stooping.

So for $60, this (http://www.woodpeck.com/tlrphenolicplate.html) seems to be the route for me. The mounting template to me is an unnecessary luxury. I have perfectly good straight-edges that can handle this job.

[Burt Alcantara]

I guess that was what I was thinking about. What does a mounting plate do and I would I need one?

Burt

[Anthony Whitesell]

If you enclose the router under the table you will need to watch out how you implement your dust collection. Bill Huber has a thread on here for a DC design that I have used with great success.

Bill: Can you link in the thread, I can't seem find it.

[Eric Larsen]

I've actually been ok with just having my router screwed to the bottom of the table. But every time I have to change bits, I have to remove the router from the base, swap the bit, then replace the router.

Not the best way to do things. With that base, you could lift the whole assembly up through the table when you need to change bits. Basically you cut a hole slightly smaller than the router base into your table, then route a dado (exactly the same size as your base) into your table that the base rests on so it's flush with the table.

It's a fairly easy project. But it's one that's in the middle of my to-do list.


PS - Thanks for that washer idea, Bill. I've had the same problem.

[Bill Huber]

If you enclose the router under the table you will need to watch out how you implement your dust collection. Bill Huber has a thread on here for a DC design that I have used with great success.

Bill: Can you link in the thread, I can't seem find it.


This one...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=65058&highlight=dust+collector

[Greg Hines, MD]

[QUOTE=Burt Alcantara;926431]I have a Bosch 1617ev(?) that serves me very well. My first table will be a laminated board with the router stuck to it. I'll build as needs arise.

The main purpose of the table is to create joinery for small boxes.

I vaguely remember a PC model that acted as a lift. Since I don't follow router news I don't know what's out there. If these "lift" types exist are they of any value or does one just buy a regular lift?

I'm still mystified about router plates and how to install one in my board.

Suggestions and recommendations greatly welcomed.

Thanks,
Burt[/QUOT

The router I think you are talking about is the PC 890.

I have one and I love it.

Doc

[Tom Veatch]

...
I'm still mystified about router plates and how to install one in my board...

A router plate is simply a relatively thin, rigid plate to which the router is mounted. It can be shop-built from most any rigid material; phenolic, aluminum, etc. Or any number of commercial plates are available. Typically, a commercial router lift will include a plate. If no router lift is used and the router base is mounted directly to a separate plate, you can think of the plate as taking the place of the removable face plate on your router base.

To install the plate in the table, a hole is cut through the table top to provide clearance for the router. The hole is typically the same shape and slightly smaller than the plate, such that the plate overlaps the hole by something like 3/4" to 1" on each side. For example, if the plate were a 12" by 12" square plate the hole would probably be somewhere around 10 to 10 1/2" square.

The table top would have a rebate cut into the top around the edges of the hole to form a recess centered on the hole. The recess would be as deep as the plate is thick so that the plate would sit flush with the top of the table. It's overall length and width would be the same as or very slightly larger than the plate. The plate, with router attached, would then fit inside the recess and be flush with the table top.

When needed, the plate with router attached could be lifted out of the hole for access to the router body from above the table. No need for mechanical attachment of the plate to the table as gravity does a fine job of retaining the router/plate inside its recess.

[Glenn Howard]

The Bosch RA1165 isn't exactly a lift so much as it is really just an extra base that can be permanently left attached to your table. This frees up the two bases that came with the kit to be readily available for use by hand. If you look closely at the RA1165, it is the exact same base as the fixed base that comes with the 1617EVSPK kit minus the wooden handles. It does come with a hex key that you can use for fine adjustment from above the table (same hex key that comes with the kit), but again, this is for fine adjustment only. Course adjustment will still need to be done from below the table. A true router lift kit allows a full range of height adjustment and bit changes from above the table.

It's still a great product, and for the money, it adds quite a bit of convenience. I have one myself, and it's great to be able to have all three bases available, and simply swap out the same motor depending on which one I'm using. Compare $50 for the RA1165 against $300-$600 for a true lift kit and for me, it was a no brainer.