Looking for shop made Adjustable roller stands

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I'm looking for ideas to build a adjustable toller stand. One that would be stable with a top thats about 30" wide.
any one have any pic's or ideas they can share?
Thanks Joe

[Peter Quadarella]

I don't have plans, but if I were building one I would design it after the Ridgid stand. It's not really a roller but I love the way it functions. You could put a gloss finish on top and wax it for smoothness. Found a picture here:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/workshop/1274496.html

[David Bodkin]

Just throwing out ideas...

For the stand I'd make an upside down Y with the ability to rotate one of the legs. Then use a link between the two legs to attach the two legs. You could move a pin down the length of the link to raise or lower the height. This would change the angle of the vertical part of the Y though so the roller assembly would need to be able to rotate.

Or you could have both legs of the Y be able to rotate and then move the link up and down the legs to adjust the height. I think that would keep the vertical part of the Y straight up and down all the time.

For the roller array, you can make rollers by putting a piece of PVC over a dowel. Get a piece of PVC with an inside diameter a little larger than your dowel and it'll allow the PVC to roll. You could make some 30" long rollers or several smaller ones in a row.

David

[Roger Jensen]

Of course gold old Norm did one...

http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0603

They are dropping VHS, so you can get the video and measured drawing for about the price of the plans alone.

Roger

[David Freed]

For the roller array, you can make rollers by putting a piece of PVC over a dowel. Get a piece of PVC with an inside diameter a little larger than your dowel and it'll allow the PVC to roll. You could make some 30" long rollers or several smaller ones in a row.

David

I saw a variation of this in an issue of ShopNotes. They used 3/4" plywood or MDF (can't remember which) to make circles to fit inside 3 or 4 inch pvc pipe.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I've built my own in the past. But the best ones I have now are from Harbor Freight and they are 9 bucks each. The run nice ans smooth and the best part are the lightness, You can pick one up in each hand. Strength wise, I wouldn't want to support 2 or 3 hundred pounds on one but then I tend not to put a lot of weight on them anyhow.

Fred Mc.

[Greg Hines, MD]

For building them, I would go with Norms design. For buying them, I have Craftsman triple rollers and would get them again.

Doc

[Bart Leetch]

For building them, I would go with Norms design. For buying them, I have Craftsman triple rollers and would get them again.

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00922293000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

[Joe Scharle]

Rollers tend to lead the piece and if the piece has any downward bow it can catch beneath the rollers. Roller balls don't lead the piece but can catch the piece as well. The Rigid top will catch the piece and tilt up with it. And the top has a slick surface that won't lead the piece. And it's hard to build one for $29.95!

[Mike Johnson]

The most recent issue of Woodworker's Journal has an article by Bill Hylton on how to build one. Building two fo them is my next shop project.

[Craig T. Smith]

I have 2 I built using Norm's for inspiration. I used 18 in. long 1 1/2 in. pipe with glued on caps ,holes drilled in center with 3/8 in. all thread. works well rolls smooth, lasted 3+years. If I made some more they would be wider. I have looked at the HF ones they would take up less floor space. But I stilll like accessories I make myself. Happy Woodworking, Craig

[Larry Copas]

I made a couple of roller stands maybe a dozen years ago. My thoughts at the time were to make a stand heavy and strong enough to stand up to heavy use.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/5tucker/Woodnet%20stuff/pic1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/5tucker/Woodnet%20stuff/pic2.jpg

Since the roller is easy to remove the stands are also used for several other jigs...a 22' long straight line ripping sled on the table saw, a skate wheel conveyor table, and a torsion table.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/5tucker/Woodnet%20stuff/pic3.jpg

Height is an easy adjustment with a fine thread bolt so it doesn’t vibrate loose.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v12/5tucker/Woodnet%20stuff/pic4.jpg

Mostly knock together construction...even shot a few nails and used some bolts.

If I were to make more a couple of changes...the rollers are 4 1/2" diameter. I might make them 6" to pick up floppy laminate and thin plywood coming off the table saw. In my old shop the concrete finishers left a few hills and valleys...I always had to shim one foot to make them steady. I would change the design so they only have 3 feet to sit level on any surface.

And best of all...they were made in the USA by an Ozark American.

[Neal Clayton]

I've built my own in the past. But the best ones I have now are from Harbor Freight and they are 9 bucks each. The run nice ans smooth and the best part are the lightness, You can pick one up in each hand. Strength wise, I wouldn't want to support 2 or 3 hundred pounds on one but then I tend not to put a lot of weight on them anyhow.

Fred Mc.

yeah, same here. if you try to bear the weight of a whole 16 foot 2x6 or 1x12 on one, it'll slip, but otherwise they hold up fine.

i can't see spending time to build such things when you can get throw-aways from HF for so cheap ;).

[Eric Gustafson]

I have used the Craftsman triple roller, harbor frieght, the rigid stand, and home made ball bearing type. I like the Rigid the best. The Craftsman is too heavy, the ball bearings are too small, and it tips over too easy. The harbor freight ones I had were hard too hard to adjust, tipped over easy, and did not fold up ( they were the tripod type.) I also do not like using any type with cylinder rollers. They tend to track the piece away from the fence. Ball bearings are better, but you must have them adjusted perfect, which it impossible if you are ripping a lot of long pieces that vary in straightness.

The best, in my opinion, is the Ridgid. It tilts to provide a ramp, and thus has the largest "target." It is light, easy to adjust, more stable, and doesn't track the piece when ripping. You can even use it as a stand for your beer at the end of the day! ;)

[Ralph Barhorst]

I built one a while back that is attached to my flip-top cabinet. It is easy to make and doesn't take up much room.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19921