Delta 1460

[Terry Neumann]

I have had an interest for some time now to get into turning bowls. Haven't used a wood lathe since highschool but am somewhat familiar with them. I have an opportunity to buy the lathe pictured for $200.00. No accessories with it It needs cleaning up and has some rust on the bed. As I haven't used one like this since school, is this a fair deal? What should I expect when looking at it? What should I plan to spend on accessories, tools etc to get started?

Thanks in advance.

[Scott Hubl]

The Delta 1460 Lathes are a very excellent lathe.

The beauty of them is that Delta made tons of accessories for them, even a "jack shaft" that allowed 16 speeds which were meant to slow you down for light metal work turning with the compound slide rest. There is LOTS of info on them still available, check at OWWM.

I own one with almost every option that was available for the 1947 one I have.(still trying to Complete those accessories)

The Cast Iron /Wood Stand is Original and well worth the $200.00 all by it self.

You can replace bearings if needed and that info can also be found on OWWM

A link to publication Reprints is here to get you started> http://www.owwm.com/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3

It is a 12 inch swing , not huge for bowl turning but it has outboard turning capabilities as well.

I have a Powermatic 3520B and other lathes and will always Keep my 1460.

Very reasonable price for that lathe and stand.

Banjo is there a tool rest the wrench for the tailstock is there i'd say its got alot going for it in potential.

If your near the Chicago area and pass on it PM me the info so I can go buy it!

Good luck Great restoration project and they look and run SWEET went finished. American Arn all the way.

[Ron Bontz]

Hey Scott. If you completely restored that lathe, I would love to see a pic of it.:)

[Scott Hubl]

I am im the middle of it still. soon as I finish it I will post pics.

Been a labor of love collecting most of the accessories, a few odds and ends to collect still.

Also restoring a 1941 Unisaw and a 1939 Four Footed Unisaw as well.

Next Friday a vintage Delta 12" disk sander arrives and a Vintage Delta 6" jointer with the Art Deco style Cast Iron base.
I'll be real busy getting these all restored, and looking for more vintage Delta machines/tools.

[Jim Kountz]

Id say go for it! I restored a 1947 lathe last year and when I was done I had practically a brand new one. It was fun and very satisfying to do. Heck it works better than my current hunk of iron and steel that is brand new!

[Terry Neumann]

Thanks Jim I believe I will

[Terry Neumann]

The guy sold it out from under me! Oh well! I'll keep looking.

[Ron Ainge]

Terry

if you are in the Denver area I may have just the lathe you are looking for. It is the same lathe as in the picture and I used it until I got my new PM 3520B this summer, and it still works great.

[robert hainstock]

I turned my first wood on one of these in the fifties. If I remember right the outboard end of the headstock has a left hand thread for a faceplate. Of course as easy as I forget things any more-----------? :)
Bob

[Terry Neumann]

Good News!!!

The guy that beat me to the lathe and told the seller he was going to send a check never did so if it checks out, I'll pick it up Tuesday!:):):)

[Thomas Bennett]

The 1460 was my first lathe. I turned a huge amount of rolling pins, bowls , knobs, replacement spindles, candle sticke, etc. Here's a photo. For $200, it's a great deal, considering what that is a little less than some of the minilathes.

[Terry Neumann]

A question on restoring it. Haven't seen it yet but the bed has some rust and minor pitting. As I plan to disassemble it, clean and repaint it, how would you get the bed surface cleaned up? I checked with a machine shop and they wanted $200.00 to reface it like having a head resurfaced. How about some rust remover and a belt sander? I doubt that enough material could be removed as to affect accuracy. Any suggestions from you restorers would be appreciated. As to paint, I have found in the past that catalyzed acrylic enamal auto paint works great as does epoxy. and they are somewhat reasonable for a pint which should be more than enough. Advantage is that they can be brushed and for machinery such as this, brushmarks won't show as the paint is self leveling.

[Wilbur Pan]

I'd start with WD-40 and a green Scotch-Brite pad. You'd be surprised how effective this can be.

[Terry Neumann]

Great idea. I have a whole case of them and grille blocks that we use on our griddle in the restaurant. They are like a brick made out of pumice stone and it's amazing what they can do to a nasty griddle. Why didn't I think of that!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wilbur beat me to the punch. Hope you get the lathe. That was my uncles first lathe and it was solid.

[Tim Thomas]

Yep, what Wilbur said about removing the rust. I cleaned up a used jointer that using WD-40, some wet/dry sandpaper in various grits and the green scotchbrite pads. I also used a drywall sanding block to hold the sandpaper. It is large, flat, has a nice handle and a soft foam base to keep the edges from digging in. This worked out quite well and I think the rust on my jointer tables looked a good deal worse than what I see on that lathe. Hope you pick it up tomorrow!

Some pics of my cleaned up jointer: (lots of rambling text in these old posts by me. Ignore the words, just look at the pretty pictures.:))
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=77024
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=77735

[Terry Neumann]

Got it:)

Looks even better in person! Now all I need to do is strip it and paint it. The bearings are glass smooth too!

[John Gbur]

Scotch Brite pads, and sanding pads can do a great deal. I also found naval jelly (rust removing jelly) worked very well. I had used the sanding pads on the bed but was tired of scrubbing when I had to cleanup a pulley. Two passes with the jelley then final cleanup with the pads and it looked like new. I used a degreaser/solvent to make sure all the residue was gone after first rinsing with water.

Have fun on the restore.

[M Toupin]

Great idea. I have a whole case of them and grille blocks that we use on our griddle in the restaurant. They are like a brick made out of pumice stone and it's amazing what they can do to a nasty griddle. Why didn't I think of that!

I'd leave the pumice bricks to the grille... cast iron is soft and you can quickly remove a lot more than you think. Yes, you can remove enough to effect accuracy, especially near the headstock. Oh, yea ,leave the belt sander to rough construction were it belongs, not on your lathe ways.

Mike

[Rob Mathis]

Man that blows!

I scored mine today.

Pictures are posted. Something will show up..keep looking.

[Mack Cameron]

Got it:)

Looks even better in person! Now all I need to do is strip it and paint it. The bearings are glass smooth too!Hi Terry; What's the Serial #? We may be related!
99607
Date of Birth: Jan. '48
99606
I bought it used in Jan. '08. This is it once it was refurbed. It's covered in a lot of sawdust at the present time.

I paid more than $200 for it, so you're getting it for a great price in my opinion.