Drying wood for tool handles.

[jason lambert]

Ok so some of you convinced me to try turning some tool handles. In reading I noticed you have to have dry wood to avoid any shrinkage. I have wallnut which is perfect for this task but how do I go about drying it besides waiting 1 year for every inch. Should I ruff turn it then put it in the oven for a while then finish turn it? If so what temp and how long? Or I can use the DNA approach if someone can discribe that to me.

Also what is the perfered way to fasenthe blade to the tool. Are the wone way collors the way to go?

[Jack Mincey]

Jason,
I use 1" copper pipe fittings for my handles. You can get two handles out of one connector or one out of a end cap. As far as wood goes find some that is already dry. Old baseball bat should work. I glue up handles from 4/4 stock some times. I've used epoxy, ca, and gorilla glue to put handles in and never had a problem with any of them.
Jack

[Jim Becker]

You might want to consider obtaining some dried billets for this. Spindle work tends to like to be done with dry material. DNA and other methods will be relatively ineffective in such thick material. What you might want to do is see if any of your local lumber purveyors have some 8/4 "shorts" that you can buy at a low cost. Many do...and you don't need "perfect" wood all across the board...just for the couple of inches you'll cut your billet out from.

I also use the copper pipe scraps like Jack for my ferrules when I make a tool handle. Shine 'em up and then hit them with a little spray-bomb Deft lacquer to keep them bright.

[Bernie Weishapl]

First off I would use kiln dried wood for handles. I do as Jim and Jack said. I use copper pipe to make the ferrules. I would not use green wood because drying time would take forever.

[jason lambert]

ok that is had to find in my area just out side NY. I think purchaseing handles is my best bet. thanks.