Grizzly 1023

[don crabtree]

I have been comparing table saws and am leaning toward the Grizzly 1023S.Any reviews or suggestions.Also they have the saw in "Tilting Arbor" and the "Left-Tilting and was wondering what the differece is because the price is the same.Does it make much difference to the user or is it just a preference.;)

[scott spencer]

Hi Don - I've used a couple of 1023's and now own a Shop Fox W1677, which is essentially a white 1023SL. That saw format is generally very well regarded for it's value to price ratio, and is typically considered among the best, if not the best bargain in 3hp cab saws going. I've used a Jet cabinet saw too, but don't know how the Griz compares to a General or PM, but it's plenty of saw for me.

The choice of left or right is a matter of preference, but the SL comes with the motor cover....I'm not sure that the 1023S does, plus, according to their website specs, there's a 2" difference in wing width for a total width difference of 4" (40" vs 36"). The "SLW" with the router wing and leg set looks like a real bargain for $105 more ($55 more plus $50 more s/h).

Good luck with your choice.

[Fred Belknap]

I have a 1023SL. It is a good saw for the money. It is all the saw that I need. The blade guard is a joke and it doesn't come with a blade. I use a zc insert and micro splitter. The arbor is long enough to install the dado blades full size on. It's heavy, if you order one get help getting it in your shop. Grizzly is a good company to deal with.

[Robert Payne]

I must echo the comments of my colleagues here - I have had a G1023SLX for four years and have nothing but praise for the saw. I didn't need to do much fine tuning out of the box (I bought mine at the Muncy, PA store so it did not need to withstand the rigors of Brown Truck travel), and it has remained solidly accurate for all this time. I use a Forrest WWII full kerf blade with a stabilizer plate and Zero Clearance Inserts for 90% of my standard cuts. The Shop Fox Classic Fence that comes with it is a great Biesemeyer clone that remains true as well. I prefer the left tilt because the blade tilts away from the fence, allowing it to always remain to the right of the blade for all operations. I made a sliding jig that allows me to cut raised panels or half-lap joints easily. The wide extension allows me to rip full sheets of plywood, too. If you can afford it, I would recommend the G1023SLW so you can add a router in the extension. Great saw and strongly recommended.

[Andy Casiello]

Another very happy G1023SL owner here. I've only had mine a month, but I've run a lot of lumber on it in a few weeks making a couple of cabinets, three stands and cutting up everything else I can find. :D It's a great saw. Heavy, smooth, powerful. I agree that the splitter is a throw-away. I have a Leeway Shark Guard coming in for it. That has a built in 4" dust port for the blade guard.

I'd buy this saw again in a New York minute...

[Frank Dominski]

I've had my G1023SLW for six months now and for the money its hard to beat. Its smooth, has plenty of power,a great fence, and well built. You will not regret making purchase

[Jim Becker]

Don, as you can see, the 1023 series has done well by folks for some time. Do note that they have a new machine (I forget the model number) that has been updated with a true riving knife, etc., which is now required on new models. There may be a cost differential, but it's certainly worth consideration.

[John Thompson]

I don't have one but there aren't many saws I haven't seen and been over pretty throughly. The 1023 is not a Caddillac with bells and whistles but... you don't need a Caddillac to get you from point A to point B. It is just a solid, dependable no-frills table-saw for the money and a great value. You can add the frills.

If I were getting it I would go left tilt for reasons mentioned as most manufacturers are moving to left tilt at this point. I would pay the extra $50 or whatever and get the router extention as mentioned also especially if you have limited space and no router table. Even if you do have a router talbe... by having it there you will increase the re-sale value if you decide to up-grade to a 14" ... 12 HP Watkins in the future. :D

The splitter is a standard as most American saws at this point but if you will tell me the bolt size that holds the splitter on... I will tell you how to make it quick release if you want to spend about $15. For about $25 extra you can add a wide mouth dust shield if you want over-head dust pick-up also.

Now if you need a drawer under the right wing... you might consider the new Uni-saw at $3000 or.... you could just build your own for about $8 plus an hours free labor. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha...

What ya waiting on... Xmas? ;)

Sarge..

[David Tiell]

I bought a used Shop Fox version about a year ago now. I love it and would recommend it to anybody, although as Jim pointed out, the newer version with the riving knife would be tempting if I were buying new now.

[Kevin Gagne]

Hi Don,

I have had the 1023SL for a couple months now and I am very happy with it.:D It required very little adjustments out of the box and has stayed true without any further adjustments. I bought a WWII to go with it and it has easily cut anything that I have feed through it. I would definitely recommend this to anyone looking for a 3HP cabinet saw. The unit was delivered less than a week after it was ordered and was delivered in perfect condition. You will definitely want someone to help you remove it from the box and setup as it is fairly heavy.

[Brian Smith3]

I looked at and used a 1023 saw before I got a PM66. The Grizz is a very nice saw. You will not wish you got something else unless right now you really want something else for some other reason. IOW you probably will not out grow it.

The difference between Left and Right to me is minimal. I switched from a Right tilt Unisaw to a Left tilt PM66, and it hasn't hampered or really enhanced any operations. Things are just different. For example, one difference is on a Right tilt the end of a dado cut will be accurate on the tape measure on the fence, because the other end of the cut is made toward the fence. Whereas on a left tilt the thickness of the dado needs to be subtracted and adjusted on the tape which can be kind of a pain if you are working with 23/32 plywood for example but not a deal breaker.

[John Schreiber]

The 1023 is a winner, but I'd put a lot of thought into a saw with a riving knife. It seems to me that for a fairly modest price, you gain a lot of safety. To gain more safety, you've got to go SawStop or Euro slider and those are much more money.

I just looked, and right now, it's more than a modest price increase. I'm still thinking of going with one of the quality guided rail systems and forgoing the table saw.

[scott spencer]

The 1023 is a winner, but I'd put a lot of thought into a saw with a riving knife. It seems to me that for a fairly modest price, you gain a lot of safety. To gain more safety, you've got to go SawStop or Euro slider and those are much more money.

I just looked, and right now, it's more than a modest price increase. I'm still thinking of going with one of the quality guided rail systems and forgoing the table saw.

There have been a few "testers" over on Woodnet, and it looks promising at this point. Very clever device.

[Cody Colston]

That **** is very interesting.

I have the GO1023SLX and it's a very good saw. As was said, it's a no frills tool but you can find frills at Victoria's Secret. All I need is a good saw.

For about $400 more, Grizzly offers the GO651 which is a 3 HP, left tilt with a true riving knife. Although I use a micro-jig splitter on mine, a riving knife would be good to have...but I don't know about payng $400 for it.

[Paul Shinn]

+1 for the 1023SLX. I've been using one for 2 years and I'm still a happy
camper.

Paul

[Noel Poore]

I have had the G0651 for about a month and am very pleased with it. It arrived very well set up. The extension and outfeed tables take up quite a lot of space but cutting long or wide boards feels much safer than with roller stands. I also have a Grizzly 8" jointer and 14" bandsaw and am equally pleased with both of those. In my experience if you buy their higher end products you get good value for money.

[Gary Elore]

I've been using a 1023 for a number of years now. Does everything I need it to do and is my favorite shop tool. I think the 1023's are a great value.

Gary

[Chris Ricker]

I am VERY satisfied with my new GO651. The additional cost for the riving knife was well worth it. Not to mention that riving knives will become mandatory on new saws in the near future.

I plan on posting a full review of the saw but to perfectly honest, I'm having so much fun with it I won't take the time to write about it:D

[John Schreiber]

This is very intriguing, but I am cautious about it. If it were that easy, I'd think some of the manufacturers would have come up with similar solutions. It may be that the forces on a splitter are too great for this kind of solution. It is hard to test because kickbacks are rare and unpredictable. Not that I don't believe it, but I won't be an early adopter.

[Don Morris]

Add another happy 1023SL user. Had mine for several years. Added a Bies Splitter because it's a close Uni clone IMHO. The riving knife idea (the bolted on thus less expensive but just as effective) should be marketed!

[Casey Gooding]

I have a 1023 as my personal saw. In my professional work, I've used Jet, Delta, Extrema, Powermatic and Saw Stop. While the Saw Stop is my personal favorite, the 1023 is a great saw on par with these and a tremendous value.