Problems with ULS-25E

[Patrick Lee]

Hi everyone. I've been going crazy trying to fix this problem with my old ULS-25E laser engraver. I know it's an old system, but any help would be appreciated. I first used it with an older computer and it worked fine for many years. However, I upgraded to a new computer, an Acer PowerFH, and now I get random horizontal lines in whatever I'm engraving. To clarify, it engraves what it's supposed to engrave, but adds a few lines here and there where they shouldn't be. With any other computer, the old one or a laptop I have, the laser works fine, but it seems to be just on the Acer machine that I get a problem. All machines are running Windows XP and Pagemaker 7 (also old, I know). I am almost certain there is nothing different I'm doing between the new and old computer, so there must be some issue with the Acer system itself. I've called ULS tech support and they couldn't find anything wrong, so I'm trying to get help anywhere I can get. Has anyone ever had this kind of problem before, with Acer or not? Anything similar? I am running out of ideas here, so thanks in advance for anything you can provide.

[Mike Mackenzie]

Patrick,

Check the Parallel port mode in the computer bios. You should set it to standard mode or ecp. as the last choice.

I think this is what is going on.

[Patrick Lee]

Patrick,

Check the Parallel port mode in the computer bios. You should set it to standard mode or ecp. as the last choice.

I think this is what is going on.

Hey Mike, thanks for the reply.
Unfortunately, this did not seem to work. I should mention that I have tried this on an added second parallel port and also with a USB-to-Parallel adaptor. Same results, but the USB-to-parallel works with the laptop. If all else fails, I suppose I can just print from the laptop, but it would just be more convenient to work all from one computer and still doesn't make sense that the Acer machine does not print properly.

Thanks for the help anyway and I hope to get more advice soon.

[Rob Bosworth]

Patrick, you atr having extra stuff added because of a communications error. Have you tried another parallel printer cable? You might even try spraying the connections just to make sure everything is clean and bright.

[Patrick Lee]

Patrick, you atr having extra stuff added because of a communications error. Have you tried another parallel printer cable? You might even try spraying the connections just to make sure everything is clean and bright.

No good, Rob. Like I said, I've tried it with several different ports on the Acer computer, which is fairly new. The port that comes with it shouldn't have a problem and the second added port came from the old computer which worked perfectly when it was still in the old computer.

The USB-to-parallel adaptor is also newly bought and it can't be a problem with the ULS parallel cable because it still works fine on the old computer and the laptop. I'm guessing the Acer software might have something different in it, but their tech support is pretty lousy. Thanks anyway.

[Dan Hintz]

Don't rely too heavily on USB-to-anything converters... I work with different types on a weekly/monthly basis and the drivers often have issues. It's a rare find for one to work flawlessly under all conditions.

[Bill Cunningham]

If you print the artwork to a 'printer' do you get a clean print? Or does this only show up on the laser?

[AL Ursich]

I remember reading something here a long time ago about the DPI of your image causing this....

AL

[Patrick Lee]

If you print the artwork to a 'printer' do you get a clean print? Or does this only show up on the laser?

Yeah, other printers seem to work fine. Seems to be a some kind of conflict with the laser.


I remember reading something here a long time ago about the DPI of your image causing this....

AL

This shouldn't be a problem. I've printed the exact same file with the exact same settings on the new and the old computer. Old one works fine, new one doesn't.

Thanks for the reply though, guys.

[Rob Bosworth]

Patrick, can you try a very simple geometry? Try sending over a 1" square with a 1" circle. Will it send the file over to the ULS 25E? How does it engrave? Any extra lines in the engraving?

[Mike Mackenzie]

Patrick,

Perhaps try to change out the memory or the video card. One of these two could cause issues if they are bad. I would start with the video card.

[Roy Brewer]

...but adds a few lines here and there where they shouldn't be. ...Patrick,
I normally wouldn't even mention this since it is of *no* value to you, but this very day I trained a new laser owner who had hooked up laser to the USB port (Dan Hintz is *dead on*) and certain jobs didn't print quite right; moved to another PC they printed fine, but user needed to use the first box, so we hooked it to Ethernet and *all* issues resolved.

So I say this to say to those who have a choice *always* use Ethernet.

[Patrick Lee]

Oh man, I was finally able to fix the problem.
I changed the parallel port's bios setting to EPP, not ECP or Standard.
Thanks to Mike for suggesting the ECP setting and to everyone else who offered help.

[James Morris]

I have a new problem with my ULS-25E. Last night the display went crazy and started diplaying characters at will then it went blank. I turned the contrast up and now I have the display back but, its not displaying the same stuff. I get some of the job information but not all. Along with that, there are a few extra strings that I've never seen before. When I hit my Escape to go to the menu, the menu is all wrong. The top selection is there and the middle selection doesn't show. Bottom one shows. They are not in the same order as before. I can select the ones that are visable but its all wrong. It appears that the EPROM for the display somehow got scrambled. Is there a patch I can download and load into the engraver and restore this display. Everything else works correct but that display.

Oh, if anyone knows where I can get a new button pad, that would be great. My start button is warn out and sticks. This causes the engraver to just start anytime there is a job in the que since the contacts are being made from the warnout button.

Thanks in advance
Jim :)

[Mike Mackenzie]

James,

This sounds like the panel has gone bad however because you mentioned the start button is stuck you may have a short between the two. Try and unplug the overlay panel from the display board Then turn on the system and see if the display reads correctly. If it does then replace the keypad if it does not then you may have to replace the display board. There is one other slim possibility that the LAS4 board has a problem and that is what is sending the garbled info to the display board.

[James Morris]

Mike,

I unplugged the keypad, but got the same thing. I had a hard enough time finding a 28v power supply a few months ago for it, are there any of the display and keypads out there still for this unit? I would lean more toward the display board. It wasn't staying in place on one side for a while. When I took it out to exam it for defects this time I adjusted the clip holders to make it tight again. Looks like I may need to find the display board and definately the button pad. Thanks Mike, your always there to help us.

Jim

[Mike Mackenzie]

James,

I think i Have a good used display board let me look and I will get back at you as for the keypads you will have to get them from ULS. They are not cheap so be sure you are sitting down when you call them.

[James Morris]

Thanks Mike,

The power supply was quite expensive also. I could only find one original and it was over $800. I went with a power supply company and had them match evreything to the original. The engraver works great, just can't see what job I'm engraving.

Jim

[Mike Mackenzie]

James,

I do have a good working display board if you are interested let me know.

[James Morris]

I am interested, just let me know what you need.

Thanks
Jim

[Mike Mackenzie]

I will get back to you on Monday its late here and I have to go out of town for the weekend.

[James Morris]

I can be reached at 630-217-5233.

Thanks Mike.

[AL Ursich]

James,

I do have a good working display board if you are interested let me know.

I have a old Epilog Profile that has the Win 95 Driver. If anyone has a used XP Driver Board for the Profile I would be interested. I have priced them new for $1K.

I will run this in the Classified when I am more serious about buying.

AL

[James Morris]

Mike,
It's been a while. I did fix the last problem and used it for all this time. I had to replace the 28v power supply. I called a power supply manufacture and gave them the specs of the original. He was able to match the power supply exactly to the original. I had to make a new mount, but all has been good since.



I do have another problem with the other power supply, 105-0003-1. The stages that operates my "Y" axis motor went dead. I contacted ULS and ask for the schematics and was basically told to take a hike. Is there any other place I can get the schematics to trouble shoot this power supply. I hate to spend $500 to send it in and find out its parts costing less than $20 that I could have fixed. Any help would be great.



Thanks

Jim

[Mike Mackenzie]

Jim,

Are you talking about the Gold box supply? If so I may be able to help I can not promise anything.

[James Morris]

Yes its the gold box supply. I used the field tech manuals to figure out its the stage in the power supply and not my "Y" axis motor.

[Mike Mackenzie]

James,

Typically when the axis goes bad it is related to the driver chips or the diodes.

The first thing to check is if you swap the X and the Y plugs does the problem transfer. Next look at the led light next to the Y axis plug if it is out chances are you have a short.

You can Ohm out between the pins on the connector to see if there is a short.

You can then Ohm out the diodes to see if any of them have a short.

I have attached a PDF for you to see where things are.

You can get the replacement drivers and diodes from newark.com

Diodes 15M1926
Drivers 89K0753

If it is not any of these components then you would be better off to send it in and hope it is repairable. Be sure to check the cooling fan when these boxes go bad it is usually due to the fan not working correctly and them over heating.

You can get the replacement fan from newark as well.

Hope this helps.

[James Morris]

I measured the output at the "Y" axis plug as compared to the "X" and there is no voltage at the "Y". Turned off the power and checked for short and got nothing (not the driver). Opened the case and started checking for shorts across the diodes and found one in about 45 seconds. Only one appears to be shorted by its not allowing the driver chip to turn on. I'll order a few of these diodes and replace the one that appears shorted. See what I get from there. Worst case, I have to spend the $500 to send it to ULS, hopefully not.

Thanks again
Jim

[James Morris]

Mike,

Thanks again as usual for the suggestions and help. It turned out to be one diode that was easy to order from the website you provided. I got it today and installed it. Put everything back together and back in business.

Thanks
Jim