NYW Shop Table

[Laurie Brown]

Thanks to a home-built DVR, I now have a nice collection of about 50 episodes of NYW on DVD, and recently got all the episodes on the projects Norm built for the shop, including the ones on the Table Saw and Router. I am going to build a work table like the one in the episode with the liftable wheels, that will serve as both a work table and the outfeed for my table saw.

I've probably watched the DVD now about two dozen times, and took notes and sketched out drawings and guestimated dimensions based on what I saw on the screen and the size I want my table to be (a little smaller than the one Norm built).

For those of you who have built one of these, or has the plans, I have some size questions:

1. How wide are the stretchers and the sides on the frame that form the top? I estimated 3 inches on the stretchers and 2.5 on the frame sides, plus the two 1/4" plywood tops to make a total of 3 inches.

2. How wide are the legs? I estimated 4 inches.

3. What kind of plywood did Norm use for this? I've listened to him say it over and over and maybe it's his accent or my DVR, but I can't make out what he's saying. 7-layer 3/4 inch (something) plywood. It sounds like he's saying 'asian'?? But I know that's not right.

I've been away from my shop for some time now due to illness and death in the family, but I'm back on track with my kitchen reface project, and looking forward to fixing up my shop during the coming months. I recently was contacted by someone who wants to pay me to make them some custom cabinet doors, and I'm excited about my first paying shop project!

[Pat Germain]

I don't recall that particular episode, but Norm may have said "MDO" plywood. He uses it a lot. It's plywood with paper on both sides which relatively inexpensive and takes paint very well.

Unfortunately, almost nobody stocks MDO plywood. Everywhere I go, the staff is very aware Norm uses it. Yet, they won't even order it. I hope you have better luck than I did getting MDO.

[Laurie Brown]

I'm pretty sure he didn't use MDO for this project. The table wasn't designed to be painted, and MDO doesn't sound much like 'asian'. :)

What's an inexpensive plywood that's still smooth enough for a project like this? I don't want to use the rough exterior grade stuff stocked at my Lowe's because I know it won't be flat.

[Gary Lange]

How about a good piece of plywood and then a nice laminate on top of it so thing will slide easy on the out feed and you will have a nice surface to work on. You could also us some Birch plywood and stain it or paint it if you'd like.

With the measurements I would just make it however you like and always error on the safe side. Make things a little bigger then you think you need. Most of these plans are easily adapted to ones own idea of what they need.

[Laurie Brown]

The table is framed out with plywood then topped with MDF, which is what I plan to use for the top also. I'm just trying to find out what sort of plywood to use. What Norm uses looks light colored and very firm and flat, much better stuff than I've seen at the Borgs around here. But I don't want to have to pay an arm and a leg for shop-table plywood, either.

[Geoff Potter]

He used 3/4" AC plywood.

[John Gregory]

Laurie.
I made one as an outfeed table about 6 years ago. I made it half size. I did buy the plans, I will look for them and see if I can answer your questions.

[Laurie Brown]

He used 3/4" AC plywood.

Aha! That does sound more like 'asian'. ;) Never heard of that before, so I researched it on the web. Now I just need to find out where I can get it and how much it costs.

[Laurie Brown]

Thanks, John! I plan to make mine 4 feet by 5 feet. Only a foot shorter than Norm's, and put it behind my saw with the long end sticking out. I'm going to make the hutch as well, and use that as an infeed helper. Have to decide how deep to make that as well, since I'm guestimating dimensions the same way. ;)

[Jason White]

He probably said "A-C."

JW


Thanks to a home-built DVR, I now have a nice collection of about 50 episodes of NYW on DVD, and recently got all the episodes on the projects Norm built for the shop, including the ones on the Table Saw and Router. I am going to build a work table like the one in the episode with the liftable wheels, that will serve as both a work table and the outfeed for my table saw.

I've probably watched the DVD now about two dozen times, and took notes and sketched out drawings and guestimated dimensions based on what I saw on the screen and the size I want my table to be (a little smaller than the one Norm built).

For those of you who have built one of these, or has the plans, I have some size questions:

1. How wide are the stretchers and the sides on the frame that form the top? I estimated 3 inches on the stretchers and 2.5 on the frame sides, plus the two 1/4" plywood tops to make a total of 3 inches.

2. How wide are the legs? I estimated 4 inches.

3. What kind of plywood did Norm use for this? I've listened to him say it over and over and maybe it's his accent or my DVR, but I can't make out what he's saying. 7-layer 3/4 inch (something) plywood. It sounds like he's saying 'asian'?? But I know that's not right.

I've been away from my shop for some time now due to illness and death in the family, but I'm back on track with my kitchen reface project, and looking forward to fixing up my shop during the coming months. I recently was contacted by someone who wants to pay me to make them some custom cabinet doors, and I'm excited about my first paying shop project!

[Don Abele]

Laurie, I have that episode recorded on the computer (as well as about another 40 or so). I went back and watched it quickly...he is saying A C plywood.

One side is graded as A and has no defects what so ever and is sanded smooth. The other side is graded C which means it has defects but they have been fixed with dutchmen/patches and also sanded, just not as smooth.

Around here I get it from my lumber dealer for about $45 a sheet.

The work table is an excellent project and is top on my list when I get moved in to our next house.

Be sure and let us know how it turns out...especially with lots of pics.

Be well,

Doc

[Bill Huber]

I think I would go with masonite for the top, I think it would last better then MDF.
I have it on my bench and when it gets so messed up I just pull it off and put on a new one, takes all of about 30 min.

[Laurie Brown]

I think I would go with masonite for the top, I think it would last better then MDF.
I have it on my bench and when it gets so messed up I just pull it off and put on a new one, takes all of about 30 min.

I currently use an old table someone left in the garage from before we lived here, it was some kind of dining table, with two leaves that drop down and fold underneath the main table. I just laid a piece of 3/4" MDF on top of that and have been using it for assembly and outfeed for over a year now. I plan to use the same piece until it gets too badly worn out, then flip it over and use the other side until that's worn out. Should last a while before I need to replace it.

[Brian Penning]

The woodwhisperer made one and mentions Norm...
I built one also but prefer the top to overhang.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-30-somebody-feed-me/

[Laurie Brown]

A shelf for storage underneath is nice. I've been toying with the idea of adding a drawer underneath for mine somehow, to keep accessories for my table saw close by.

[Brian Penning]

Agree about the shelf underneath

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f193/Bri68/Miscilaneous/IMG_3269.jpg?t=1221011275

[Laurie Brown]

But I want to keep the feature of the hinged wheels underneath for mobility. Maybe a shelf in the center between the two long stretchers?

For those of you who have built these, please comment on my questions about dimensions in my first post? Were my guesses correct?

[Brian Penning]

Attached is a plan with dimensions that should help you out -hopefully ;)

http://woodworking.about.com/od/shopequipmentsupplies/ss/portableTable.htm

[Steve Kohn]

I bought the plans and then started modifying. I used double locking 4 in casters instead of Norm's drop down system. That allowed me to build a full shelf under the table for extra storage.

Originally I built it to the size in Norm's plan. However, after a couple of years use I realized it was too big to move around the shop. Also the table top was so big that many of the projects had to get pushed around on the table so I could work on them.

So in May of this year I flipped the table over onto some sawhorses and carefully cut it in half. After making some new legs and adding more casters I now have 2 tables, 1/2 the size.

They work much better, and if I need a large table for a project I can screw a cleat between them and join them back together.

[Rick Levine]

Laurie,

I built that work table about a year ago and I'm very glad I did. I also recorded that and many other episodes on my Tivo and copied it and others to DVD's so I could follow them during construction. You might want to order the plans from NYW, they are not that expensive and really helped a novice like me. Also, Norm used 1/2" mdf which is more substantial than masonite unless you get a really thick piece.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Legs are 5" X 3 1/4" X 33 7/8" H. These are act cut sizes. Stretchers are 4" high. Stretchers and banding on top are 2 1/2". Plywood is Arucco (sp?) Ply from Lowes. I use it as the substrate for building counter tops.

[Terry Achey]

I built Norm's table, too. For my shop size and layout, I find the size to be about right. Although I have other work surfaces I find my self gravitating to this table all the time. It's easy to build; very sturdy; and remains pretty flat.


Here's a couple things I noticed after using it for 6 months.

I never rolled from where I originally placed it :rolleyes:
A shelf would be handy since I never move it.
I find my self moving "things" while outfeeding on my TS
I would say it could be narrower, but I also find the width handy at times when I want to slide things out of the way, but yet keep them within arms reach. I think Norm right sized it.
All things considered, it's my favorite workstation. The 3/4 MDF adds needed rigidity to the top is only held in place with four corner screws. Mine is getting pretty messed with glue residue and other scars. Soon time to do the flip to a brand new side!

Have fun building yours Laurie!
Terry

[Laurie Brown]

I've nearly finished building the table now, and I like it so much I'm considering building a second smaller one to help with infeed for bigger stock.
I'm probably going to add a shelf under this one, which I can do between the stretchers and still keep the functionality of the wheels. The story of assembly with pics is here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92160