Ridgid Jointer Good Enough?

[John Peterson]

Hey guys, well I guess Im kinda new here. Im starting to set up shop and Im looking for a Jointer and Planer. As far as budget goes, thats up in the air. If it were a perfect world, I would take peoples advise that I've read and get an 8" Jointer. I was looking at a Grizzly G0656 (8" 3hp 72" bed), and along with that the Grizzly G0453 15" Planer. I can afford both of those, but by the time you add another $300 in shipping, thats a little over $1700.

My problem is this. This will be my first Jointer (not really important but...), there are so many other things that I need. Like a plunger router, sander clamps etc. I know im looking to do alot, but I pretty much looked at all my other options and the grizzly is about the cheapest. Thats where the 6" Jointer comes in.

My other option is the Ridgid 6" Jointer, and Dewalt 735 Planer. That would bring the total to about $900 and some change. The only reason I would prefer to go bigger is capacity. Thats about it. I probally wouldnt ever have to upgrade. Space is not a concern as I have about 900 sqaure feet of a basement to use.

Just to give you an idea of my equipment:

Ridgid TS3650 Saw
Milwaukee Circular Saw
Milwaukee 1 3/4 hp Fixed base router
Milwaukee 18v Drill
Makita 18 LI-Ion Drill and Impact

See I told you, Im just starting out. Any ideas or feedback. Like I said I have no problems spending the money, but if I buy the Grizzly's that would be it for purchases for a while. I wouldnt really be able to finish anything that I would start.

My interests as far as building would be Kitchen cabinets eventually and living room/ bedroom funiture. If that helps.

Edit:

I had a thread about the Jet Jointer, I went back the next day to pick up some odds and ends and it was gone.

[scott spencer]

I'd rather see you buy an 8" jointer and get a slightly less expensive planer....like the Ridgid, DeWalt DW734, or Delta 22-580. There are alot of boards that are between 6" and 8" wide. Plus, an 8" jointer has alot more mass...you'll never wiggle it or tip it, and it has more power. The 8" will also have higher resale value. Maybe you can find a used one.

[Brian Penning]

I've had my Ridgid jointer for 4-5 years now and use it often.
I'd buy one again.

[james gerus]

John, Check out the current Woodworkers Journal (Oct. 2008) magazine for a review of 12 inch Jointer/planer combo machines you could have another choice. Jim

[Keith Cope]

John, I bought a Ridgid jointer several years ago (my first as well) and still have it. It is a reasonably good machine, but hindsight being 20/20, I really wish I had gotten a bigger jointer. I'd say James' advice is right on--there are some pretty interesting combo machines out there now, check those out before you take the plunge!

[Tim Malyszko]

I've been using the Ridgid jointer now for a few years with absolutely no complaints. I did have a knife alignment issue for a while, but that was cleared up after purchasing the Jointer Pal.

Do I wish I had a bigger Jointer, yes. But, when I get around to buying another one, I will go for a 12" jointer, not an 8" jointer. With that being said, I'm glad I purchased the Ridgid, because I'm sure that if I would have purchased the DJ20 or another similar 8" jointer, I would still want a 12" jointer.

On another note, I also have the Ridgid Lunchbox Planer and this too has been a magnificant piece of equipment. There is absolutely no snipe issues and after 2+ years, I'm still on my 1st set of knives (flipped over) and I'm guessing there have been a few thousand BF run through this machine. I have no intention of replacing this machine unless I just wear it out.

If I were to do it again and wanted to stay under $800 for a jointer/planer combo, I would not hesitate going with Ridgid again.

[Tim Thomas]

I bought a used Ridgid jointer and cleaned it up. It has worked very well for me and I would recommend it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=77735

I also bought the Ridgid thickness planer (new, not used) and have been very happy with it also. If budget is a concern I would recommend going with the 6 inch jointer and use a planer sled in your thicknesser to handle wider boards. A 13 inch wide portable planer is a lot cheaper than an 8 inch jointer, and with a simple jig it is just about as useful. If you can find used tools to purchase then you won't lose much money on the resale if you decide to upgrade later.

[James White]

Hi John,

Another option is to give Shop Fox (Woodstock International) a call. Ask them for the closest 3 dealers to you. In fact you can ask them which dealer in your area has ordered one recently. They will be the one likely to have it in stock. You will save the shipping, support a local business, and get to see the machine before you buy.

The model at the link below is the same as the Grizzly 8" with Parallelogram beds. Shop Fox has a two year warranty vs Grizzly one year. I had one bad part. The little extension table for rabbiting had a slight wave in it. Three days after I called a had a new one on my door step. No questions asked. Today I will finish up running 500 bf of red oak threw it. All face jointed. Not even a hiccup.

http://www.woodstockint.com/products/w1741/

Bibb Tool sells them on Ebay with free shipping. I believe some list members have purchased from them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shop-Fox-W1741-8-Parallelogram-Jointer_W0QQitemZ260273953840QQihZ016QQcategoryZ20 780QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZ p1638Q2em118Q2el1247

James

[Curt Harms]

One of the primary reasons to get a wider jointer is for face jointing. If you're buying S3S or S4S boards, a wider jointer may be a little less critical. Of course the 8" jointers also have longer beds. A rule of thumb with jointers is that they will joint stock twice as long as the beds. Personally, I think 1 1/2 times the length of the beds is a better rule unless you use stands or supports.

Keep an eye on Craigslist. You might be able to pick up a used jointer pretty reasonably. The only thing I'd watch with used is there are a lot of Craftsman jointers floating around with fixed outfeed tables. I think they'd be pretty fussy about knife setting; you have to worry about absolute as well as relative knife height. With movable outfeed tables the knives have to all be set the same. With a fixed outfeed table they have to be set the same AND the correct height relative to the outfeed table within .001"-.002", otherwise you'll have tapered cuts or snipe.

Another advantage to buying a "first jointer" used is that you're less likely to take a hit if you upgrade later, most of the depreciation has already come off the price. Buying a new 6", using it a short time, selling it at a loss to buy the jointer you should have bought the first time makes the "correct" jointer more expensive than it needs to be.

HTH

Curt

[Jim Becker]

I agree with the sentiment about getting the bigger jointer and working with a 12-13" portable planer for some time. Face jointing is an important milling step and the wider machine gives you more capability in that respect on a regular basis. (Yes, you can "face joint" a board in a planer with a jig, but that's cumbersome, IMHO, for doing a lot of stock) Going with the so-called portable planer (some like the DW735 really are not quite so portable due to weight) saves you some money that can go toward a nice 13 amp router kit, etc.

And if you can find a used 8" jointer, so much the better. These are simple tools and not hard to setup and maintain.

[Mike Cutler]

John

In determiining the size of a jointer, bigger is always better. But,,,, This doesn't always have to be so.

The primary purpose(s) of a bigger jointer is to facilitate the ability to face joint wider material, and usually a wider jointer is longer, which enables a longer board to be edge joined more safely, and consistenly.

A sled can be made to utilize a planer to perform the jointers function of face planer. Once setup a sled can be very fast,and the ability to face join a 12"+ wide board consistently can be a big time savings versus flipping the board on a narrower jointer.

Edge jointing can be very effectively performed with a Guided Circular Saw System( GCSS) and a jointer plane with a guide. I can have material edge joined faster this way that I can on my Jointer sometimes, especially if the material is longer then 4 feet, and very wide.

A router mounted in a table with a split fence is also an alternative to a jointer for edge jointing. I use this method also. Very good reults can be obtained this way.

I only have a 6" jointer and have always found it limiting. I rarely use it any longer. There are other ways to skin the cat.

[Jim Becker]

Mike, wouldn't the sled require adjustments to accommodate and properly support each and every board's unique "out of flat" features before using it to flatten a face in the planer? There has got to be wedges, screws or some other way of preparing for the operation as it's essential that the board cannot rock or be deflected by the planer's rollers. I raise this question because I'm truly trying to work this through in my head...

[Peter Quadarella]

Jim, in practice doing this adjustment is very quick. I use the sled from FWW and its really just a matter of moving the triangles in until there is no gap between the support and the board, and then a quick turn of the screw with your finger. All done in less than a minute usually.

The problem I found with the sled is that it is somewhat heavy, limiting it's size and making proper infeed and outfeed support very important. If the board is too long for the sled (mine is about 5') forget it, you will destroy your wood. If it is too short, it can be difficult to bring the sled through the planer. If it is too narrow, the planer doesn't have enough pull to bring the sled through. These sleds are also big and unwieldy; I often hesitated in taking mine out, and they do take up space.

Unless you want to make a bunch of different sized sleds, or if your projects are all roughly the same size, you will need another method. I use hand planes, and for edge jointing they are mighty quick and easy (and fun!). Face jointing, especially if you end up with a piece of jatoba or something, can be tiresome after the romance wears off. It also takes a really long time on large boards (often the ones you need to do because they don't fit on the sled).

Ultimately, you can live without a jointer, but it can be painful at times. I gave up and bought a jointer recently - a Grizzly G0490X.

[Matt Benton]

Jim,

I've used a sled for a couple of milling projects, albeit small ones. Mine uses screws to keep the board secure.

I admit that there is some extra work involved in setting the screws to the right height for each board, but as a part time hobbiest, being able to flatten a 12" board without the expense or space of a jointer is more than worth it to me.

[Michael Hammers]

I have had the Rigid now for about 4 years and it has done all I have asked. If I could have went bigger at the time I would have, but such was not the case. I like being able to keep her set up at 90 for a quick edge. It face joints about as well as any 6" joiner.
Having said that I have not had a spec of trouble from the machine. If you are looking for the positive side,
1. heavy, well built
2. easy adjustment, adjustments do not creep
3. good blades
4. flat, straight fence
5.good price and warranty
6. decent dust extraction

not so positive,
1. tippy and top heavy
2. I do not like the color orange
Good Luck!
MSH

[John Shuk]

I like mine alot too. I too would rather 8" but the Rigid is a great jointer.
I was also very happy with the instructions and packaging of the various parts. Very comprehensive and clear.

[Ray Schafer]

I bought a used Ridgid Jointer through Craigslist and I am very happy with it.

[Mike Cutler]

Mike, wouldn't the sled require adjustments to accommodate and properly support each and every board's unique "out of flat" features before using it to flatten a face in the planer? There has got to be wedges, screws or some other way of preparing for the operation as it's essential that the board cannot rock or be deflected by the planer's rollers. I raise this question because I'm truly trying to work this through in my head...

Jim

Yes it does need to accomodate the twist, and or cup in the board for stability.
The "most popular" version I've seen is the one on the Fine Woodworking website, which has been copied and slightly modified by a few folks here on the board. It works with a system of cleats, and wedges, that can be raised and lowered and hotglued into place on a sheet of MDF, or a long bungie cord holds them down by applying pressure.
It sounds very klugey, and Rube Golbergish, but it's really not.
It takes a day or so to make one, but once it's made, (and you don't lend it out, and never see it again like I did:o,;)) , it's always ready.
I keep meaning to make another one and take pics of the process, but I just haven't gotten around to it. The nice thing about it is that cost is almost $0.00. A sheet of MDF, some hardwood scraps, a couple dozed screws and a long bungie cord and you're set.. A lot cheaper than a 12"+ planer, that's for sure.
Someone here on the board posted pics of a really nice one they made recently. I can't find it though.

Having a dedicated wide jointer is definitely the way to go, but the expense of one is a killer, unless it can be found used. Getting a 1/2 ton + machine into a basement isn't always workable either. A sled is a good solution.

[Geoff Barry]

By way of disclosure, I have a 6" delta jointer I picked up on craisgslist for $150, and a factory refurb Dw735 I picked up at Tool King for $369. (Tool King often has either the Delta 22-580 or the DW735, factory refurb, for around $350 or so).

Of the two, I would replace the 6" with an 8" long before I would replace the DW735 with a 15" planer. A large percentage of the boards I get seem to be around 7-8" wide, and so the 2" difference between 6" and 8" is very significant. I'd actually love to have a 12" combo, just for the jointing capability, but then you're talking $2k again. And for $150, I can't complain too much. It's enough to do some decent edge jointing, and to get familiar with using a planer (even if face jointing something wider than 6" brings with it a number of unappealing choices -- removing the guard and flipping the board, or ripping to under 6" and then gluing back up, or just not face jointing . . .) However, unless you are planning on running 100s of bf of lumber per day, the 13" portable planers will work just find (as long as you have hearing protection :) ) SO, as several folks have recommended --

First, look on craigslist for an 8" jointer or 15" planer -- significant savings can be had this way.

Second, consider going with a new 8" jointer, and a portable 13" planer. Any of the Delta 22-580, DW735, or Rigid should work just fine. The DW735 usually "wins" in magazine reviews, but note that (a) it weighs 92 lbs, (b) many folks have had blade life issues, and (c) of you buy it new, and then add the DW outfeed tables an stand, you're close to the cost of a 15" planer. I have a DW735, but the day I went to Tool King I was going to buy whichever was cheaper between the DW735 and the 22-580, and if I'd known about the Rigid then, I might have gone that way, too. I'd let cost be my guide, and look for a factory refurb.

Anyhoo, my $.02 :)

[Paul Johnstone]

Here's what I would do.

Figure out what you want to build next. That will guide your purchase.

It really doesn't make sense to spend $1700-2000 on a jointer and planer but then not have enough money to finish anything. (That is what you said).

Jointers are nice, but you can build a lot of things without them.
If you buy kiln dried hardwood from a good source, often you can get away with just planing them, and using the edge your table saw puts on them. I worked that way for years.

So, I would like you to consider your needs. Maybe you are better off buying that router and clamps and your dream planer, and doing without a jointer until funds appear. Or maybe you just buy the router and clamps and watch Craig's list for a few months.

I would also like to say that I got by with a Delta lunchbox planer for about 10 years, then gave it to my brother. He's still using it. They are fine machines (lunch box planers). Seldom will you need to plane greater than 12" wide. Sure, a floor unit is faster and less prone to tipping, but you can get by with a lunchbox and upgrade later. You might find a real sweet deal on a used lunchbox planer.

[John Peterson]

John, Check out the current Woodworkers Journal (Oct. 2008) magazine for a review of 12 inch Jointer/planer combo machines you could have another choice. Jim

I saw the Jet at my local Woodcraft. I can pretty much guarentee that I would never purchase one. The fact of having to crank the bed up 30 times to be able to plane is rediculous. I would rather lift a 40 lb dust hood off to switch back and forth. Now granted the thought off having a planer and a 12" jointer for $2000 is nice but not worth it.

[Curt Harms]

I saw the Jet at my local Woodcraft. I can pretty much guarentee that I would never purchase one. The fact of having to crank the bed up 30 times to be able to plane is rediculous. I would rather lift a 40 lb dust hood off to switch back and forth. Now granted the thought off having a planer and a 12" jointer for $2000 is nice but not worth it.

The changeover isn't bad at all unless you're doing it several times an hour for several hours (It takes me less than 90 seconds) If that were the case, I'd spring for separates. The other thing is to plan a bit (which I'm terrible at:o) i.e. face joint one face of several pieces, put that face against the fence to edge joint , then switch over to planer mode. Some sort of digital readout is certainly useful if you plane a number of pieces then later need to go back and plane one last piece that you forgot about.

Curt

[Adam Slutsky]

John:


I bought a Rigid 6" jointer used on Craigs list for $175 and have been very happy with it. I upgraded from a benchtop ryobi jointer so this was a major improvement for me. I don't run much rough lumber through it. For the money this machine is excellent. Sure bigger is usually better but if you are like me with a basement shop consider your friends backs who will be helping you lug the thing into your basement!