Face Frame to Carcass conection

[Matt Ocel]

How are you guys/gals making your face frace to carcass conection?

I have been glueing, biscuiting, and then 2 1/2" 18 guage, but it doesn't always suck the face frame in tight, leaving a gap

[Bill Huber]

Two words..... Pocket Screws

They are great, fast and do a very good job and will suck that frame right up to the carcass.

[Jim Becker]

Glue. Sometimes a few biscuits across the top if it's a big frame just for alignment and ease during installation. Pocket screws. 23 gage pins when pocket screws are not practical, such as on built ins where the face frames go on after the boxes are hung so they can be scribed to the wall easier. In other words, it varies slightly with the project...

[William OConnell]

How are you guys/gals making your face frace to carcass conection?

I have been glueing, biscuiting, and then 2 1/2" 18 guage, but it doesn't always suck the face frame in tight, leaving a gap
Just glue and clamps. I use a pin nailer to hold alignment. But after that its just glue and clamps with good pressure and squeeze out

[Matt Ocel]

Bill -
When you use pocket screws, how do you clamp the two, to prevent "creeping"?

[Bill Huber]

Bill -
When you use pocket screws, how do you clamp the two, to prevent "creeping"?

I just use parallel clamps, just like I was going to glue it and then us the pocket screws.
I was a glue and nail person until everyone around here got me to try pocket screws.

[Thomas Pender]

Couldn't agree more about the virtues of glue and clamps (I use K bars and brown tightbond III). I have also use my pin nailer to allign and use Kreg pocket screws to build the face frame - usually 1.25" with oak or maple. But, I usually cut a shallow dado in the back of the face frame and fit it over the cabinet, which, I thought, everyone does. :confused: It increases the glue area and they only place you will be able to see separation, if any, is at the top and the bottom and no one looks there. Once it sets, it is never coming off that box.

[Greg Cole]

Just glue, biscuits, pocket hole screws and even miller dowels...
All of the above and depending on the project (or what I don't have to dig in the shop to find....).
I've never bothered with a dado in the back.

Greg

[Jerry Olexa]

I've used pocket screws, biscuits and small brads but the most important holder is GLUE and clamps. Also depends on the project. Eacxh is different.

[Steve Clardy]

Glue and clamp up, then brad nail from the inside ply to the face frame.
No brad holes to fill ;)

[Paul Gatti]

Glue and Biscuits.... the trick is lots of clamps. A gap between the frame and the face could be the result of either the biscuits slots not being deep enough for the biscuits or you aren't getting enough pressure from your clamps.

[David Schnegg]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I have a question.

The following diagram is from the Kreg's website:

http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/images/framedcabinet.gif


I'm curious what the general consensus is for filling the pocket holes with plugs? or do you leave the holes visible? I realize that the side holes are partially blocked by the face frame itself, but what about the holes drilled into the floor of the cabinet?

And say you are using prefinished plywood for kitchen cabinets... what do you plug the holes with?

[David Schnegg]

bump......

[Scott Loven]

I would only use pocket hole screws on locations that will not show on the finished piece, or where I did not care if they showed, such as a shop cabinet. I am not sure how you would use them on finished plywood and get them to blend in and be almost invisible.
Scott

[Dan Gill]

I have filled pocket holes in plywood with plugs. They sell oak plugs. It's mainly for the underside of shelves (I attached the edging with pocket screws), so the holes don't show much anyway, and the plugs are in shadow.

[Greg Deakins]

Kreg offers special plugs that are milled in with the angle of the hole pre-cut, so the only sanding is of the raised portion, cut just beyond the plane of the surface. You see em', but it looks finished.

[Bob Levy]

I've been using the Sommerfeld's cabinet router bits (http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=03004) for about 2 years now. It has totally change the way I build cabinets. It is a tongue and groove system.

I saw them demonstrated at a woodworking show in Indy. The set cost about $100. It's been one of the best investments I've made. I also highly recommend the DVD they sell that shows how to use it. I think it only costs about $10.