Stoning back of bandsaw blade?

[Jeffrey M Jones]

I had a friend tell me the other day he read in a magazine about holding a stone to the trailing edge of a bandsaw blade to put a slight bevel on it... he explained that it would help a narrow blade turn in curves easier and in straigth cuts it would decrease resistance and also help decrease drift. Is this true? Seems it would weaken the blade to me but I am new to bandsaws. Dad and I got a G0457 a few weeks ago and Im trying to get all the tricks I can but I have never heard of this one. Thanks, Jeff

[David Schnegg]

Your friend was correct:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11357

[Tony Ward]

Probably true, the amount removed from the may provide an additional turning ability? A stone is generally used to smooth a welding blob. If you are looking to gather further information ~ Bandsaws and Blades information sites (http://www.tonyward.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=3&id=38&Itemid=90%22%3E)

[Pat Germain]

David Marks recommends doing this when tuning up a bandsaw. Don't know about you guys, but David has much street cred in my book.

Marc "The Wood Whisperer" Spagnuolo demonstrates the same technique in his bandsaw video.

You can buy little grinders on a stick for grinding the back of a bandsaw blade. I have one and it works great.

[Robert Strebler]

My video mentors, David Marks and Marc Spagnuolo both recommend doing that.

edit: Pat, you beat me to it.

[Tom Esh]

Yep, and and wrap it all the way around the back to remove any burrs on the back edge which can nik up face of your thrust bearings. Just about any stone will do - even one of those cheap carborundum brick things for garden tools.

[Jeffrey M Jones]

Thanks for the info guys. One of these links the guy says he drops the quick release on his bandsaw when he isnt going to be using it for a while. This sounds like a good idea but is it necessary if you use normal tension the gauge on the saw says you should? Also, is the gauge on the saw accurate enough to be trusted? I havnt noticed any problems so far but ive only used it a handfull of times in the past few weeks since ive had it. I can really resaw veneers thin and uniform with it. Thanks again, Jeff

[Jeffrey M Jones]

Thanks fellas

[Ken Werner]

I use a worn down old small stone, and actually round over the back edge of the band saw blade - works great to improve performance. One warning, to keep from marring the surface of the table, place the stone on a thin piece of scrap.

[Peter Quinn]

A few other guys that know a few things about the bandsaw (Mark Duginski and Lonnie bird!) both recommend doing this, not so much to repair a bad braise or remove much material as to soften the square back edge to give less resistance in curves or resaw.

They also recommend you thoroughly clean your BS of sawdust before doing so to a new blade, as sending a shower of metal sparks into a pile of very fine saw dust is a bad plan.

The folks at Suffolk machine, who also know a fair bit about BS blades and the band saw in general, recommended against doing this to their blades (Timberwolf). I believe I was told it was only necessary on cheaper blades who's fit and finish was coarse, and that theirs were shipped ready to use. Might want to check on that with them if you are using Timberwolf blades, and if you're not, you might want to try timberwolf blades because they work great.

Not affiliated with the product except as a satisfied customer.

[Kevin Davis]

Also, make sure you clean up the sawdust beforehand as there are sparks.

[Heather Thompson]

Timberwolf blades are great, so is their web site, read it a couple of times and then go to bed. The next day read it again and then call their tech support line for info, I also release the tension after every cut, may seem extreme but I have a quick release lever on my saw. I also lubricate the blade at the start of every day, helps big time.

Heather

[Jeffrey M Jones]

To all, thank you for info... for Heather, what do you lubricate your blade with? I have heard it is bad to lubricate your blade as it causes the wheel tires to soften. any thoughts?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jeffrey,

Mark Duginske in his latest bandsaw book recommends stoning the rear corners round on a bandsaw blade.

[Tom Esh]

Thanks for the info guys. One of these links the guy says he drops the quick release on his bandsaw when he isnt going to be using it for a while. This sounds like a good idea but is it necessary if you use normal tension the gauge on the saw says you should? Also, is the gauge on the saw accurate enough to be trusted? I havnt noticed any problems so far but ive only used it a handfull of times in the past few weeks since ive had it. I can really resaw veneers thin and uniform with it. Thanks again, Jeff

At least one blade mfr recommends it, plus the tires can take a "set" when left under tension and the saw isn't run for a few days. The result is increased vibration for a minute or so on startup until the set works out. I always release mine unless I'll be using it again within a few hrs, however I'm not sure I'd bother if it didn't have a quick release lever.
BS tension gauges are notoriously inaccurate and different brands of blades tension differently. For example with my saw, using the gauge alone, I'd end up applying substantially more tension than is required for a good blade, and not enough for a crappy OEM or hw store blade. The "flutter" test method works best for me, but only with good blades. (Yet another reason to use only good blades.)

[Pat Germain]

I use Dri-Tool lubricant on my bandsaw blades. I spray some on a rag, hold it against the blade and turn the wheels by hand. (With the machine unplugged from power, of course.). Guess where I learned to do that.

[Dick Rowe]

Also, make sure you clean up the sawdust beforehand as there are sparks.

Additionally, make sure you don't use a dust collector while doing this. A spark could get sucked into the system and potentially ignite dust in the ducting or collection bag/can

[Heather Thompson]

To all, thank you for info... for Heather, what do you lubricate your blade with? I have heard it is bad to lubricate your blade as it causes the wheel tires to soften. any thoughts?

Jeffrey,

Suffolk Machine recommends PAM, the stuff used to keep food from sticking to cookware, spray a little on a paper towel and rotate the upper wheel backwards by hand while holding the paper towel around the back od the blade. It does not take alot and you want to have the power unpluged while doing this.

Heather

[Marc Spagnuolo]

Just for complete clarity, I did learn that technique specifically from David. But the concept makes sense to me. Rounding off the back of the blade "should" help reduce drag and allow you to negotiate curves a little easier than a square-backed blade. And if there are any burrs or rough areas, they will be abraded away with the stone. Works for me. :)

[Pat Germain]

Just for complete clarity, I did learn that technique specifically from David. But the concept makes sense to me. Rounding off the back of the blade "should" help reduce drag and allow you to negotiate curves a little easier than a square-backed blade. And if there are any burrs or rough areas, they will be abraded away with the stone. Works for me. :)

[UBER FAN MODE] Hi Marc! It's me, Germain. Thanks for dropping by SMC. You rock, Dude! [/UBER FAN MODE]

[Eddie Darby]

Jeffrey,

Suffolk Machine recommends PAM, the stuff used to keep food from sticking to cookware, spray a little on a paper towel and rotate the upper wheel backwards by hand while holding the paper towel around the back od the blade. It does not take alot and you want to have the power unpluged while doing this.

Heather

I've soaked my cool blocks in PAM as well. So far I haven't gained any weight bandsawing, so the PAM must be doing the job!:rolleyes:

[Eric Larsen]

Just for complete clarity, I did learn that technique specifically from David. But the concept makes sense to me. Rounding off the back of the blade "should" help reduce drag and allow you to negotiate curves a little easier than a square-backed blade. And if there are any burrs or rough areas, they will be abraded away with the stone. Works for me. :)


[Wayne & Garth mode] We're not worthy! We're not worthy! [/Wayne & Garth]

OK, but seriously, thanks for all the info at thewoodwhisperer.com. I look forward to the podcasts.

My two favorite episodes are Tablesaw & Bandsaw tuning. Would you please do two more for the jointer and planer?