New to me TS! 56K warning

[Christopher Fletcher]

I picked up my "new" grizz table saw a few days back. It was a good deal for me and put a few bucks in a friends wallet. So everyone wins. With any old tools, it needs to be tuned a bit before it gets thrown back in to service. Suggestions and comments welcome:
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642508_o.jpg
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642576_o.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642759_o.jpg

[Christopher Fletcher]

Here are my current and immediate needs:
A Replacement rear fence clamp -
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642659_o.jpg

A Replacement V Belt and possibly machined pulley wheels --
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642673_o.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642611_o.jpg

Warped Cooling Fan --
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642492_o.jpg

[Christopher Fletcher]

Those are the big things. From there I have a couple of repairs and mods that will make life easier:

Dust Collection --
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642532_o.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642595_o.jpg

Pulley cover housing -
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642556_o.jpg

This is what I have to clean and restore the moving parts --
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/170642633_o.jpg

[Christopher Fletcher]

Aside from these minor repairs, I would really like to service the motor. It is a 20 year motor and I'm sure could use a thorough revamp. With the motor running, and nothing but the arbor turning, it is very loud. I don't know whether this is typical of these older type motors, but the sound is similar to someone dragging their exhaust behind the car. Not a sound I would like to try and think over while in my "shop". Also, the warped plastic fan seems to be an indicator of either abuse, neglect, or both. What are my options to remedy this? Also, are my cleaners and lubricants adequate for the job?Is there any concern with using any of them on of near the motor or other moving parts? Any help is appreciated!

[Lee Schierer]

I would highly recommend replacing the belt with a link type belt and getting a guard made to cover the pulley and belt back by the motor. That fan isn't helping much with the big warp in it, but could be a problem to replace. Consider replacing the fence with a Beismeyer type fence and make up some zero clearance inserts. Of course get a new blade as that one looks well used.

For dust collection, fit up a wooden box to fit inside your base directing all the saw dust to a 4" opening. You can make the whole thing out of wood. Connect up a hose and you are in business. You can close up the tilt slot in the front of the waw with a magnetic vent comver from the local home imprement store.

[Christopher Fletcher]

I contacted grizz and they have a replacement pulley guard for $5. I will most likely go that route as it is easiest. I definitely plan on picking up a link belt replacement and machined pulleys from inline. Does anyone have experience with this company or this product?
For the zero clearance inserts, I think I'll pick up a couple from peachtree. The blade is toast. I have heard good things about the wwII, but I also have heard there are equals for less $$...
I was thinking the same for the dust collection but it never occured to me to use the magnetic vent cover. Thanks!

Any thoughts on replacing bearings if necessary?

[Harley Reasons]

Inline can furnish the pulleys alright, but when I tried to purchase the linkbelt from them they were out of stock. Grizzly has the best price on the line belt I've seen.
There is a thread already on the pros/cons of the machined pulleys here. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=85050)

[Christopher Fletcher]

Inline can furnish the pulleys alright, but when I tried to purchase the linkbelt from them they were out of stock. Grizzly has the best price on the line belt I've seen.
There is a thread already on the pros/cons of the machined pulleys here. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=85050)

Good to know about Inline. I had thought to get the belt through grizz, but I figured that if I was going to get the replacement pulleys too I might as wel get them from one retailer to save shipping.

Did you ever get your pulley's from them? If so, how was the install?

[Harley Reasons]

I got my pulleys from Inline, I only installed the motor pulley. Never could figure out how to get the arbor pulley off without a lot of dis-assembly of the saw. Couldn't tell any difference after installing the motor pulley. The biggest bang for the buck came from installing the linkbelt. Difference like daylight and dark. Try the linkbelt first and then get the pulleys if your not satisified. If I had a do-over, I would have invested in the pulleys.

[scott spencer]

Very nice....+1 on the link belt option. I'd hold off replacing the pulley until you try the link belt and fix the fan....you might not need new pulleys. If not, spend that money on a new blade!

You might also consider adding a new fence like the Delta T2 the next time it goes on sale. The stock fence should raise $35-$50 on Ebay to offset the price.

[Christopher Fletcher]

I haven't had any luck finding a replacement fan through grizz....I can't find a part number from the manual. Is there a supply house that has motor rebuild parts? Or a company anyone recommends that will service it for me?

[Tom Veatch]

...With the motor running, and nothing but the arbor turning, it is very loud. I don't know whether this is typical of these older type motors, but the sound is similar to someone dragging their exhaust behind the car....

Even an old motor shouldn't sound like it's "dragging their exhaust". It looks to be a TEFC motor and the picture of the fan made with the shroud removed. If that's the case, does the motor still make the noise without the shroud? Don't run it for an extended period without the shroud since the cooling will be severely compromised. With a fan warped that badly, it's quite possible the noise is coming from fan/shroud interference.

If not, and the problem is bearings, then a motor rebuild is definitely in order. Depending on the rebuild/repair cost, and whether or not the motor has a standard NEMA frame (check the motor dataplate) you might consider a replacement rather than a repair.

Two options come to mind on the fan. If the dataplate gives a clue as to the motor origin, perhaps the manufacturer can assist in replacing the fan, or the local motor repair/rebuild shop can take care of it if you go the rebuild route.

[Christopher Fletcher]

Great info Tom,
Here is what I have so far. The motor is a TEFC and the noise was present with the shroud. I removed it to get a look at what I was dealing with and discovered the fan in the sad state you see there. My first thought was, as you suggested, that I needed to rebuild the motor. Just in case it is too far gone, or not worth the effort, I have priced new motors from grizzly. Unfortunately I cannot tell which will work properly. Here is the data plate I found on the shroud: (sorry for the size)

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/2/1/5/4/6/webimg/171134010_o.jpg

These two are the same rpm, hp, and voltage as what I have, but I cannot for the life of me tell which would work: G2535 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/G2535) , H5382 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/H5382). If my choice is based on appearances, the g2535 looks most simliar. They have a 1725 rpm version as well which further clouds my understanding. In any case, I'm looking at about $180 + shipping for a new motor. Unknown cost for repair. Anyone know any shops here in San Diego?

[Tom Veatch]

If you use a 1725 rpm motor you'll need to replace the drive pulley on the motor with one that has a pitch diameter twice the size of the existing pulley to get the blade speed back up to normal. Or replace both pulleys with a set that has a drive to arbor pitch diameter ratio twice the ratio of the existing pulleys. That may or may not be practical. Probably best to stick with a 3450 rpm motor.

It looks like the motor simply bolts to an "L" shaped bracket. It that's the case, you might could drill new mounting holes if they don't match the replacement motor. I'm surprised the dataplate doesn't show a frame size, but since it's a Taiwanese motor, it may be an IEC frame (or a totally non-standard frame size). If it was me, I'd take some measurments of the motor shaft and mounting footprint. That might be enough to identify the frame from these NEMA (http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/PDF/NEMA.pdf) and IEC (http://www.americanelectricmotors.com/avactis-images/u/IEC%20Frame%20chart.pdf) frame charts. Either way, you could then talk to Grizzly (or any motor vendor, for that matter) with a firmer idea about what you need. I'm assuming that Grizzly can't identify the motor from the saw model number.

But, that all may be moot if the motor can be repaired without too great an impact on the bank account. Can't advise on any motor shops in San Diego. Last time I was in that area was 13 weeks of MCRD in 1960 and passing through a few times later on to board troop ships at the Navy base. But Google and/or the yellow pages should list several.

[Harley Reasons]

I'm surprised that Griz tech support can't identify this motor just by the model of the TS. I thought they kept all of their records of manufacturer if not on computer at least a hard copy of it.
However, having said the above, I recently tried to get a book for my out of production Z series 15" band saw and was told "it's the same as the 14" XXXX model, just bigger wheels". Now that helps a lot when your trying to buy replacement tires or blades for it.:confused:

[Christopher Fletcher]

I spoke with grizzly's tech department this morning. They said that either motor I picked would be a direct replacement and that it was a NEMA "56"? frame. In either case, he said the h5382 was supposed to be heavier duty. He also said that he thought to have it repair would cost more than a new motor. Maybe he got the impression that the motor was completely non-operational, but does that sound right?

C.