Resaw Bandsaw Purchase Recommendation

[Don Abele]

I bought a bunch of old oak beams a while back with the intention of resawing them myself. My Jet 14", even with all the mods (riser, tires, spring, guides) just isn't "cutting" it (pun intended), so I want to get a dedicated resaw bandsaw. I have resawn a lot in the past with mixed results with the Jet, so I know this will be a well used purchase, not just for this one project. Most likely I will keep the Jet with a 3/8" blade in it for all other BS work other than resaw (I also have 1/8, 1/2, and 3/4 Timberwolf blades).

I thought about taking the beams to work, but my transfer from CONSTITUTION has been accelerated and I leave on 01 October. I am heading back to Virginia where I will be taking over an expeditionary security squadron and immediately deploying for 3-6 months to the middle east. So using our huge pit saw is out of the question. This also means the purchase will be in 3-6 months after I return (maybe longer, depending on when I can get the family/house moved). But I'd like to square this decision away before I leave.

I've been reading a lot, both online and here...and here's where I'm at.

I want it to be able to resaw 12" (since that's my J/P capacity) with a throat capacity to match that (which all will do), I don't see a need for a huge throat, so the 16"-18" range works well for my needs. Price cap at $2500 is a must (not including shipping).

OK...so here's the line up and the general stats that I'm comparing:

Agazzani B-18: 12" resaw, 2.5 HP motor, 370 pounds, $2300
Grizzly G0636X (17"): 16" resaw, 5 HP motor, 620 pounds, $2000
Grizzly G0531 (21"): 14" resaw, 5 HP motor, 594 pounds, $1900
Laguna 16: 12" resaw, 3 HP motor, 352 pounds, $1800
MiniMax 16: 16" resaw, 5 HP motor, 530 pounds, $2400
Rikon 18: 12" resaw, 2.5 HP motor, 352 pounds, $1400

All have the right resaw capacity, and I'd prefer the 5HP motor (so I never have to worry about exceeding the capacity), though I've not heard anything wrong with the 3HP models. The weight differences are significant and I would tend to lean more towards the heavier units for stability.

The MM16 was at the top of my list when I started (as I equate it to the same quality as my Hammer). But based on specs, I'm not so sure when looking at the Grizzly units. Not sure how the 21" Grizzly is lighter and cheaper than the 17"???

Like when I bought my Hammer J/P combo, I want this to be the last bandsaw purchase ever. Please provide your recommendations and why...I'd be especially interested in hearing any reports on the Grizzly units.

Oh, and I'll be outfitting it with a Timberwolf 1" carbide blade.

Be well,

Doc

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Doc,

I pretty sure the MM-16 has a resaw capability of 16"....and it's 16" from the blade to the spine. I struggled with this same decision before I bought my MM-16. Like you...I wanted something that my two sons will argue over. I plan on retiring next year and will have a reduced income once that happens. So.....it is a tough decision.

Good luck with your decision Doc!

And stay safe!

[Lance Norris]

Don... why do you feel you need 5hp for resawing? I have a 2 hp bandsaw(G0457) and have resawed at capacity(10")without fail. If you dont ever need more than 12" of resaw, 3 hp would be enough. Unless image is important to you, Grizzly should be fine. I have an idea. Buy the Griz 514x or 514x2 and send me 1/2 the money you save. Tell all your friends you have a MM or Agazanni, and buy the LOYL something with the other half. :)

[Rick Fisher]

Those are all really good saws. Down the road, the MM, Laguna and Agi will hold strong resale value. For sawing wood...

I really question if a 5hp motor on a bandsaw every breaks a sweat. Im sure there are some heroic tales of resawing 16" tall lumber but 99.9% of the time, 3hp would be adequate power, if not excessive.

[Doug Shepard]

Boy is this a case of Deja Vu
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25068

Ended up with the MM16. I like what I've seen on Agazzani forum posts too though.

[Bob Wilkerson]

One thing you might consider if you have space is the purchase of an older 36" saw of the likes from Oliver or Tannewitz. With your budget you'd be able to find one in restored condition that would do a fine job. One benefit is that the old ones had very robust trunnions and large tables that have cranks to adjust the table angle. FWIW, I have a more modern 24" Tannewitz that is an excellent saw that I believe is made by Aggazini for them. On my short list is a Tannewitz GH and an Oliver 217 or 116 for the future if I find one in restorable condition at a bottom feeder price......

Bob

[Dave Torro]

have the grizzly G0531 (21"): 14" resaw, 3 HP motor, very happy with the performance and build quality.

[Larry Fox]

I have an MM-16 with the 3.6 hp (I think) and 14.5" resaw and it has handled everything that I have thrown at it with ease.

[John Hedges]

Nothing against the Grizzly or Rikon, but if you've got the money the Agazzani, MM and Laguna are in a different league, and if you are doing a lot of resawing, I would definitely suggest this route. I have an Agazzani B20 and love it.

[Don Abele]

...I'm pretty sure the MM-16 has a resaw capability of 16"...

Ken, you are correct - that was a typo on my part...


...why do you feel you need 5hp for resawing?...

Lance, I want this to be the last bandsaw I buy, so I figured I'd shoot as high as possible (within reason). I have read a lot of reviews that the 3 HP models perform just as well. Your point is well taken...guess I should revise my parameters to say minimum 3 HP.


Boy is this a case of Deja Vu...

Uh, huh...I read that entire thread in my various searching here on SMC. It's one of the reasons the MM16 is at the top of the list.


One thing you might consider if you have space is the purchase of an older 36" saw of the likes from Oliver or Tannewitz...

Bob, I move way too much to have to move a beast like that and I don't have the time to do any restoration work that may be needed.


Thanks for all the comments so far guys...I really appreciate it.

Be well,

Doc

[Doug Shepard]

Whatever saw you end up with, I think spending the extra for a Lenox Tri-Master blade is money well spent. Moving from a 14" Jet you'll think you died and went to heaven.

[Jim Becker]

Doc, I'm partial to the Italian saws for some reason. Of course, I own one and that likely colors my opinion. I have an older MM16 (12.5" resaw with 3.8hp) and have been very pleased with it. The stiffness of the spin and heavy construction of the same is something I've been quite please with. That's important when you are going to tension up a wide and thick carbide resaw blade for sure.

------
As to your change in orders...stay safe. You'll be in all our thoughts. I'm sorry you're leaving the Boston area before I could get into town for the tour, but them's the breaks...and I'm not headed that direction this month it looks like.

[Paul Gatti]

Don,

I'm also investigating a new bandsaw. I have narrowed my choices down to either the Agazzani B-20 or a MM16. My usage will be about 60% general use and 40% resaw. A couple of questions for the MM16 owners out there.

1. Have you ever wished you had increased capacity at the throat? If so, what were you working on?

2. What percentage of your bandsaw work is resawing?

3. Have you ever installed a 1/4" or smaller blade on your saw? If so, how did it work with the stock guides? I know I can purchase different guides for the MM16 that would easily handle the smaller blades, but that costs additional $'s.

Personally I'm not that concerned with the differences in horsepower. I think either one will be able to handle whatever I could throw at it.

[guy knight]

i have the mm20 and have resawed 20" and the motor has no problems as for build and quality you cant go wrong with the mm16

[Jim Becker]

Paul, any of the Euro machines that use "Euro guides" are not going to be ideal for narrow blades using those guides. Although I have not used them yet, I have "cool blocks" for my MM16 when I eventually do put a narrow blade on the machine. So far, however, I haven't had anything less than a 3/8" blade on it, and a 1/2" blade "lives" on the machine for general cutting.

[Stan Smith]

Don,

A couple of questions for the MM16 owners out there.

1. Have you ever wished you had increased capacity at the throat? If so, what were you working on?

2. What percentage of your bandsaw work is resawing?

3. Have you ever installed a 1/4" or smaller blade on your saw? If so, how did it work with the stock guides? I know I can purchase different guides for the MM16 that would easily handle the smaller blades, but that costs additional $'s.
.

I have a MM16" works great for my resawing which is all hardwood. Here's the answers.
1. No but I also have a little Delta benchtop bandsaw and an RBI scrollsaw.
2. All
3. No

Get the Lennox carbide tipped blade.

[Wilbur Pan]

Most likely I will keep the Jet with a 3/8" blade in it for all other BS work other than resaw (I also have 1/8, 1/2, and 3/4 Timberwolf blades)....

I've been reading a lot, both online and here...and here's where I'm at.

I want it to be able to resaw 12" (since that's my J/P capacity) with a throat capacity to match that (which all will do), I don't see a need for a huge throat, so the 16"-18" range works well for my needs. Price cap at $2500 is a must (not including shipping).


First of all, thanks to you for your service to our country.

Now, to bandsaws. First of all, exactly what kind of 1/2" blade do you have for your Jet? Having the right blade makes all the difference. Hopefully, it was a 3TPI blade. If not, try one out and see how it works out. I don't think that the Jet 14", or any other currently made 14" bandsaw has got the tensioning ability for a 3/4" blade.

Secondly, if you have any sort of mechanical ability, you might want to consider looking for a 1940's-50's era bandsaw. Bob mentioned the huge bandsaws made by Oliver and Tannewitz. There are many other makers out there. I have a 16" Walker-Turner that can resaw just under 12", and I've managed to do this with a 1/2 HP motor -- although I wouldn't do this on a regular basis. I just mention this to show that more than HP goes into good resaw performance. Remember, back in the day a typical bandsaw came with a 1/2 HP motor, and a 1 HP motor would be a real luxury, but they still were resawing oak beams like you want to.

I think that many of the differences between the old machines and what's available today are things that can't be seen in a spec sheet. For example, my bandsaw specs out at 12" resaw, 1/2 HP, and 575 lbs. But what isn't shown is that the cast iron wheel is more massive proportionately compared to the wheels on current day bandsaws, which adds to the cutting performance. The specs also don't show that the wheel covers themselves are all cast iron, putting the weight right where you want it, near the cutting action.

Find an old bandsaw, replace the bearings and tires, tune up the guides, and you'll have a really nice machine. My total cost for my bandsaw including the bearings and tires was just about $400. And if you live in the Northeast, these sorts of bandsaws come up for sale pretty often.

If I was looking for a new machine, though, I'd go with the MiniMax MM16.

[Bruce Page]

Doc, I’m still very happy with my MM16. It has done everything I have asked of it with ease. I can’t imagine wanting more BS. I have used a lot of BIG industrial bandsaws over the years, DoAll, Kalamazoo, Centari’s, etc, and the MM is on par in their build quality.

Stay safe over there!!!!!!!!!!

[Don Abele]

...I think spending the extra for a Lenox Tri-Master blade is money well spent...

Doug, I have used Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. I was going to get their 1" carbide resaw blade...any idea how that and the Lenox Tri-Master compare? Not sure of the price of the Timberwolf, but I'm sure it's on par with the Lenox ($250) which is money well spent on a good blade.



...That's important when you are going to tension up a wide and thick carbide resaw blade for sure...

Jim, how do you tension your blades correctly on the MM16? For my Jet, I have used Timberwolf's flutter method with excellent results.


I'm sorry you're leaving the Boston area before I could get into town for the tour, but them's the breaks...

That's alright...a lot of things I never had time to do when I was here. Besides, right now we are in the middle of a two-year overhaul and don't look our best. Be sure and try and get up here after the summer of 2010 when it's done. Let me know and I'll put a call in to my relief and see if he'll hook you up!



...exactly what kind of 1/2" blade do you have for your Jet?...I don't think that the Jet 14", or any other currently made 14" bandsaw has got the tensioning ability for a 3/4" blade...

Wilbur, as I said above, I've used the Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. For my Jet, I have a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 blade. I don't remember the tooth set on them, but they were all the ones recommended by the Suffolk techs. I've had excellent results with them, but just not with this 10-12" wide oak. Lot's of drift and VERY slow going. For tensioning I use the flutter method and have replaced the standard spring.


...Secondly, if you have any sort of mechanical ability, you might want to consider looking for a 1940's-50's era bandsaw...

Wilbur, the problem is more of one of time. I'd love to get an old machine and restore it. But I'm going to a highly deployed security squadron and will be gone for six months of the year, every year for the next three years. What little time I have at home (and in the shop), I want to spend on projects, not restoring a saw (though that could be just as enjoyable).

Thanks again for all the input guys...keep 'em coming, I appreciate it.

Be well,

Doc

[Doug Shepard]

Doug, I have used Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. I was going to get their 1" carbide resaw blade...any idea how that and the Lenox Tri-Master compare? Not sure of the price of the Timberwolf, but I'm sure it's on par with the Lenox ($250) which is money well spent on a good blade.


Wish I could help. The only carbide I've used is the TM. Wasn't even aware someone else was making one. Laguna apparently has one they call a carbide but posts I've read say it's something else (Stellite? IIRC). I've heard nothing but good things about Suffolk, so if they're making a carbide I'd assume it's a good quality blade. I went from HH Woodslicers on the Jet to TMs on the MM16 and have been grinning ever since.:D

[guy knight]

i have used the resawking on my rikon 18 went with the 1 1/4 was to much blade for the saw sold the saw gave the blade to a friend who had it shortened and used it has great results on my mm20 i use trimaster carbide they work great

[John Hedges]

Wish I could help. The only carbide I've used is the TM. Wasn't even aware someone else was making one. Laguna apparently has one they call a carbide but posts I've read say it's something else (Stellite? IIRC). I've heard nothing but good things about Suffolk, so if they're making a carbide I'd assume it's a good quality blade. I went from HH Woodslicers on the Jet to TMs on the MM16 and have been grinning ever since.:D

I would be looking at the Lenox Woodmaster CT. Newer blade meant for cutting wood (as opposed to the Trimaster which was originally meant as a metal cutting blade). The CT is a lot cheaper and has a thinner kerf and lower TPI.

To Paul Gatti. I highly recommend the B20. Great saw and the larger wheels are supposed to work better with carbide blades.

[Mark Singer]

I have the 20" Aggazani and have had it for many years after buying many not so great models including a Laguna . The 20" adds a little cost, but when you compare features and power its the way to go.