Using spalted wood in furniture

[Craig Hemsath]

So I picked up the maple lumber I'm going to be building a crib out of. Some of the maple I bought has some spalting in it. This is rough lumber and the spalting is mostly on the ends (last foot or so). Although a couple of smaller pieces is throughout. There's a very limited amount of it that is pretty punky/rotten and unusable. What I'm concerned about, is the hard stuff OK to use for pieces that need to have strength, like the legs, etc? Should I just avoid the spalting altogether and use the clean wood? I'd really like to take my time on this project so it can (hopefully) be passed down so I don't want to chance it on some iffy integrity wood. But the spalting sure is pretty and would look quite neat in the project.

Thanks for any advice, this place is a plethora of helpful knowledge.

[Mike Heidrick]

David Marks Wood Werks on DIY had an episode on fixing wood issues. On the spalting, David hardened the soft spots with CA glue. That may or may not work for you.

[Craig Hemsath]

CA = cyanoacrylate? Plain ol'superglue?

[Greg Cole]

Super glue or the "wood hardener" stuff will do it unless it's totally punky.

Greg

[James Ashburn]

PM sent

When I was a kid my family had an old Chris Craft boat. When it developed dryrot we used an injectable compound to harden the soft spots. I don't recall what it was but it worked great and still looked very good. Aside from that, you could use some clear epoxy if the area is large.

James

[Peter Quinn]

Go to :http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1268&familyName=Smiths+Warm+CPES+Epoxy.

CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) will consolidate the rotten, ehrrr, spalted areas big time. Not cheap, but it is the best. Forget super glue for large areas, or its only advantage is fast dry time. CPES is the right stuff.

Oh, the warning about working in a well ventilated area with a respirator is not a joke, take that one seriously as this stuff is nasty. I guess it has to be to turn sawdust back into wood again!

[Jim Becker]

Speaking about the aesthetic side of this question, there have been many fine pieces made "out there" using spalted material. In general, however, it's been for effect, such as on door panels, carcass panels in frame and panel construction, etc., rather than on structural members. That has nothing to do with strength for the most part; rather, it's to allow the intense "figure" of the spalted material have a place to live, complimented by some other species. An oft seen combination is spalted maple in walnut or cherry framing.

The others have covered stabilizing the spalted stock pretty well.

One thing, when working with this material, take a little extra care relative to dust control. It may or may not be true that inhaling the inactive fungus spoors during milling can cause harm to your very moist respiratory system, but there is good reason to be conservative and err to the protective side. Turners who work a lot with spalted material usually advise that.

[Craig Hemsath]

Well, it doesn't matter anyway. I was measuring out some of the cuts today. Wife come out to the garage, started asking about the black streaks and scratching at them. No more than touched her nose and her eyes started swelling up. So it's going back for some clear stuff.

[Jim Becker]

Craig, finishing the project will seal in anything that should give an allergy a problem. That said...ya gotta keep the boss happy!

[Greg Cole]

I'll PM my address and you can send it this way. :D
LOML loves the spalt from black line to the lucky charm rainbow of coloration.....
What Jim said @ finish sealing in the whatever mold spore allergy inflamation for your LOYL.

Greg

[Craig Hemsath]

I assumed any varnish would seal it in, but I'm not chancing it if I know the Mrs. can't handle it then having Jr crawling around it. It's not worth the risk.