Leigh D4 Guidebush questions...

[Brian Kincaid]

Hello, I've had some success with my D4 cutting dovetails. I really like it, but I have run into some issues when my guidebush moved in the router plate. I have used the factory plate as well as made my own with acceptable results.

Do any of the guidebush systems bolt directly to the router (not the plastic plate)? I'm considering investing in another router if they do.

I can always get a Pat Warner jobber. Looks nice, but I want to see if there are any other options out there.

Best regards,
Brian Kincaid

[Chris Rosenberger]

I do not know what router you have, but Leigh has several different adapters for routers.
Link - http://www.leighjigs.com/ugs.php

I have not had the problem you describe. It sounds like the nut on the guide is not tight enough.

[Charles Lent]

A slight mis-alignment of the router guidebush won't matter, as long as it doesn't change it's position while you are working. Make sure it's tight so it can't move. You should avoid rotating your router while you are cutting dovetails with your D4. In fact, the manual recommends that you put a mark or arrow on top of the base of your router that points in the direction that you will always move your router when cutting dovetails. By keeping your router oriented the same way every time you are cutting dovetails you are eliminating the effects of a mis-aligned guidebush.

Charley

[Brent Smith]

Hi Brian,

I'm going to assume that you are talking about PC guide bushings here. I've found that a drop of locktite on the collar keeps everything tight. I used to have that problem when using bushings for long periods.

[Alan Schaffter]

Lock-Tite is a good idea, but also get an inexpensive router centering pin. They have machined tapers on both ends and usually come with a 1/2" shank on one end and a 1/4" shank on the other. Install the guide bushing securely - add some Lock-Tite to the threads. Raise the motor, install the pin in the router collet, loosen the baseplate screws, lower the motor until the pin until touches the guide bushing. Adjust the position of the baseplate until the bushing is centered on the pin. You may need to lower the motor a tad more to ensure the tapered pin is seated and the bushing/baseplate is perfectly aligned. There is usually enough mounting slop in most router baseplates to be able to move it a fraction so the guide bushing will perfectly align with the pin. Once aligned, tighten the baseplate, and you are good to go. With this method you don't need to worry about router orientation with the jig. Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32316&cat=1,180,42311,42321&ap=1), Hartville Tool, (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12316) MLCS (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html), Peachtree (http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm), (and others?) sell this inexpensive ( $5 - $6) pin or you can make one on a metal lathe.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/shared/images/products//medium/91876.jpg

[Brian Kincaid]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll give a centering pin and some loc-tite a try. I have a router base dedicated to the jig, so I can lock it down.

Brian