Getting the blade on the cut line with a Miter Saw

[Greg Hampton]

I'm a miter saw rookie. Recently bought a Bosch 12" SCMS, dual bevel, with laser, yada yada.

Prior to this tool I've done all my cross cutting on my TS. I know the MS is going to be a great tool to have in the shop, especially for cross cutting and mitering longer boards, but I'm curious about accuracy.

Using my TS thus far, I've noticed it's very easy to run the board into the blade right on or to the side of a mark (whatever your'e trying to do). It's seemed very easy and accurate to line up and make the cut.

So far with the Miter Saw I find that's not the case. For instance, if I'm not using the slide and just making a chop cut, for starters I have to mark the board in the middle, where the blade will first touch, then I have to lower the blade to the wood without it being turned on, see if I'm aligned, move it around, etc.. etc.. etc.

Not to mention when I need to cut on the left side of the line when I have to look around the other side of the blade to get things lined up.

So, as I said. I'm a rookie with the Miter Saw.

Am I missing something regarding technique that may make my life a lot easier ?
I've yet to install the laser because I've read in hear that everyone seems to think it's a gimick. Yet, the technique I'm currently using, I would think the laser is just what I'm looking for so I don't have to fiddle / play around with it so much trying to get the blad on my line.

Feel free to school me on this. I'm all ears.

Thanks !

[Steve Clardy]

I've always just dropped the blade down to my mark and aligned then cut.

I also have a 4' kreg back stop that has a folddown stop I can set as say 30" and make repeat cuts.




Edit. I do not use or have the lasers on my saws

[James White]

Hi Greg,

Ill give you my technique. I am not sure if it is the accepted common practice. But it is how I have always done it. If you are after accuracy. I would suggest not to use the laser. While I am sure with time you can develop a feel for where to line up the laser. For me it tends to just blur the process. I have the same saw you have. If speed is what your after and accuracy is not critical you should go ahead and use the laser. Keep in mind that with this saw. The laser only lines up with one side of the blade.

What I have alway done is run the saw and lower the blade near the work. Then use the vibration and a little sideway pressure to move the board as near to the mark as you can without going past it. Then just lower the blade to just kiss the piece and see how close you are. From there you can adjust the board if you are not dead on. With some practice you will be surprised how often you will get it on the mark the first time.

James

[Eric Larsen]

I've never been able to get my laser set to the point where I trusted it. I'm another one for dropping the blade down, checking, adjusting, rechecking, then making the cut. And I still manage to screw this up occasionally.

One thing I like about the laser is lining up bevel cuts. If my laser is parallel with my bevel line, then I know I'm going to get an accurate bevel. But I still drop the blade down to check and recheck the length. (And I still manage to occasionally screw these up, too.)

Measure twice, cut once, sometimes swear anyway...:rolleyes:

Eric

[Greg Hampton]

Wow. I never would've guessed that I was not that far off the mark (so to speak) ;).

What I mean is how it seems evident that this may be a challenge to everyone and it's just the way it is with a Miter Saw.

I'll forget about the laser. I think it's safe to say that's a general consensus.

And I'm definitely going to build some 7 foot wings / extensions so I can use stop blocks as much as possible for repetitive cuts of the same length for long boards and everything else I can.

Other then that it sounds like the answer is, mark it, lower the blade, check it, move the piece, line it up.. do it again.. etc etc ?

That seems so easy on the TS cuz you can get right behind the blade.
It doesnt seem as easy getting right behind the blade to look / line up on a Miter Saw.

How bout building a taller stand ? Like chest high something ?

If this is just how it is, then I better get used to it huh ? Just like everyone else has had to. And if the Miter Saw table should be around 34"'s off the deck and not higher for safety reasons then I have to deal with that too.

But I just want explore / research well so I know I'm not missing something.

Whata ya think ?

[Steve Clardy]

I'm 6'1" and my mitersaw cabinet is 42" tall.
I don't have to squat to line things up.

[Brad Wood]

Other then that it sounds like the answer is, mark it, lower the blade, check it, move the piece, line it up.. do it again.. etc etc ?


that's how I do it too.... just like everyone else has stated. If doing repetitive, I use a stop block.

[Greg Hampton]

Now we're talking (about the 42" tall stand). I'm 6'. I through together a real simple / quick and temporary bench that is 31" high.

What's everyone's take on a 42" tall Miter saw stand ? That should put the Miter Saw table around 45" off the ground. I can definitely see the advantage to lining up a cut at that height.

Any safety issues at all to be concerned with ?

Or do I have the green light to get this saw up in the air more ?

Thanks !

[Tom Veatch]

...
What's everyone's take on a 42" tall Miter saw stand ? That should put the Miter Saw table around 45" off the ground. I can definitely see the advantage to lining up a cut at that height.


My recommendation is put it at whatever height is comfortable and convenient for you. The only reason to pick some "standard" height would be if there's a reason you need to coordinate the height with other tool heights.



Any safety issues at all to be concerned with ?


None due to reasonable table height that I'm aware of. In fact safety might be enhanced by working at your most comfortable height and thereby reducing any awkwardness in the process.

[Steve Clardy]

My recommendation is put it at whatever height is comfortable and convenient for you. The only reason to pick some "standard" height would be if there's a reason you need to coordinate the height with other tool heights.



None due to reasonable table height that I'm aware of. In fact safety might be enhanced by working at your most comfortable height and thereby reducing any awkwardness in the process.

Yep. That's my take on it.

[Stan Smith]

If the blade is either to the right or left of the cutting line, you have to visually check with the blade lowered--at least I do. I have one of those after-market lasers and it sure isn't the cut line. Obviously, I just ignore it now. I could make it work by always considering the offset but it's just as fast to lower the blade to the line. I have a Makita 10" scms. To me it's easier to use for crosscutting stock less than 11" wide than the TS.

[Peter Quinn]

Many see the SCMS as finished goods, ready for work as shipped. I used to. Now I screw a sacrificial plywood fence to the aluminum fence on my SCMS, it has holes to accommodate this. I change the fence pretty regular and each time i am doing a spacial angle. I often make a quick L sled, with the fence screwed to the factory fence and a piece of 1/2" plywood sitting on the table, screwed to the sacrificial fence, as a ZCI backer.

Run the blade through the sled or fence as necessary at the desired angle, mark your work, you know from the cut line through this backer EXACTLY where the blade will land. I learned this trick from the carpenter's, installers and cabinet makers at work. With out a backer, the SCMS is a crude tool. With it it is a precision instrument.

For repetitive cuts a test piece and a good stop is a great aid. Change the fence regularly or as needed for different angles.

[rob mason]

Lately, I've been rough-cutting my stock with my CMS, then using my TS with a crosscut sled to sweeten it to length.

[Dustin Thompson]

Peter Quinn does what I do, make a sacrificial fence that serves as a zero clearance "insert" (zci) and exact blade index. I usually use scrap 1/2" plywood for this. It will save you tons of time fiddling with your laser, and back and forthing with your stock to try to get an exact cut.

Dustin

[Greg Hampton]

It sounds like building a taller stand (42" or so) and using a sacrificial fence will take care of all this.

The Creek is a beautiful thing and you guys are all awesome.

Thanks a ton to everyone who replied.

I'm sure I'll be back shortly but try to not wear out my welcome.. :cool:

Everybody be careful and take care.

[Ed Peters]

I have the 12" Dewalt SCMS to which I added the "Laser Kerf" (www.laserkerf.com (http://www.laserkerf.com)) laser guide. I find it to be very accurate and easy to use. It does not require the blade to be spinning to energize the laser and the beam is the actual width of the saw kerf so it is illuminating the wood that will be removed thus providing line up for both left and right of the blade cutting. I have mounted a 25' tape on a bracket that is fastened to the right hand side of the saw. As most cuts are to the left of the blade for me, I take a squaring cut, then hook the tape on the end of the board and slide it to the proper dimension, release the tape and cut. No longer a need to mark.

Ed