Its official....from the tree folks in Wisconsin

[Chris Barnett]

The tree that defied accurate identification since the leaves were gone, has been identified as cherry at the Center for Wood Anatomy Research.
in Wisconsin.

Glad that I sealed the ends of the logs I cut from the trunk (with Anchorseal this time, not paint as before), but now what is the proper action to ensure I do not get excessive end cracking? I had cut several chunks (excuse me but I do not remember the proper term for a section of log :o) and coated with paint but they cracked so much they are not useable.

The log is only 14 inch diameter minimum but hopefully is useable. I have no means to dry lumber so turning is my only option for use. Should these logs be cut into pieces, then each quartered or the center be removed by cutting slices from each side, or what? Can an end sealed log be left as is until needed?

Or is even the useability of a 14 inch diameter log just dreaming? A piece I had previously cut into short boards has some beautiful grain, with reflections in the wood as it is turned side to side. Hope it does not go to waste. Would like to see that grain in something useful...but even that piece of wood has beauty as is!

[Bill Bolen]

If you intend it for turning and not slabbing into square stock just cut it in half down the length of the log eliminating the pith(use your chain saw). Coated with end grain sealer it will be ok. I've had several chunks of cherry treated this way sitting in my basement shop for 2 years with no major cracks. If you have bowls in mind rough turn them and bag 'em up for further drying...Bill...

[Chris Barnett]

Yes, turning as I stated is my only option. So the log must be split down the middle to remove pith and prevent cracking. Was hoping that was not necessary since it is so much easier to handle a round log than a half-round.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Chris - once the ends are coats with anchorseal - you can leave the log whole and just store it so it is off the ground and out of direct sunlight. When the time comes that you want to turn that wood - then cut the log into what ever pieces you need. There is lots of info available on cutting up logs - but it all depends on what it is you want to turn. Meanwhile - the log is fine as is.

[Jim Becker]

Chris, the pith/no pith question is what it is. For hollowforms, I prefer end-grain orientation and if the log has a tight pith and I want to go large, I'll always prefer to keep it in (and centered) and rough turn before the log starts losing a lot of moisture. Thinner, even walls will help prevent checking and cracking, although that's not a 100% thing. Smaller hollowforms for end-grain orientation can be taken out of the log to any side of the pith, although the grain pattern will typically be tighter on the pith side of the form than the opposite in many cases. For bowls that are typically turned in face-plate orientation, halving/splitting the log will help you retain larger pieces without uncontrolled cracking.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Chris I'm with Steve on this, but I'll put it another way, if you leave the log whole, you will get some checking and splitting on the ends, if you cut it into 100 pieces you'll get checking splitting on 200 ends, and have a big pile of firewood or kindling ;-))

[Chris Barnett]

Thanks...think I will leave it as is, after coating a few more times. Can keep it off the ground and under a shed, so cutting a piece at a time will work for me, even if a loose a little in cracks.