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Darren Vass
09-03-2008, 4:26 PM
I was taught to do a 45 degree miter cut, so that the miter joint would be over a stud. Seems that this method promotes lots of wasted moulding. Is this the way to do it? Using a nail gun, would you nail through the joint? Will this break the joint? Is there a method of doing this that is correct?

Thanks,

Darren

Brad Shipton
09-03-2008, 4:39 PM
It kinda depends on your floor covering and moulding profile. Maybe you can get away without locating at studs if you have a lino floor and a 2 1/4" baseboard, but I sure am glad I located only at studs for my 4.5" tall profiles. If you need a 3/4" allowance for carpet or hardwood I sure wouldnt try given the imperfect nature of walls. Thankfully moulding comes in 14' lengths so joints are usually not a huge problem.

Brad

John Keeton
09-03-2008, 5:41 PM
I will usually scarf/miter the first piece over the stud, tack it with a couple of nails, apply glue to both pieces, then lay the next piece over the scarf, and either pin with a 23 ga pin nailer, or finish nailer depending on circumstances - flatness of the wall, distance to next joint/corner, etc.

I haven't had any problem with breaking the joint as long as I stay away from the thin edge. In order to do that, you need to carefully align the cuts with the stud.

As far as waste, I have found if I have a pile of cutoffs, they usually work out in the end with very little waste by the time I do returns, short corners, etc.

Peter Quinn
09-03-2008, 7:51 PM
I've used glue, a couple of pins or brads on the show face and a couple of staples on the blind side for scarfs in base molding with no stud behind. I'll usually make the length I need, let the glue set then nail it up. Never seems to be lots of waste if you plan well.

I can get moldings in 16' length and try to avoid scarfs when possible. I'd rather waste a little than run lots of scarfs.

Jim Mattheiss
09-03-2008, 8:44 PM
In the few occasions when I needed to join base molding I just used a butt joint and a biscuit. I can't see it, and I know where it is. A quick sanding and it's pretty much invisible.

I've been in plenty of places where the mitered scarf joint has opened up - the angle catches your attention - IMHO.

Cheers

Jim

Rich Engelhardt
09-04-2008, 7:10 AM
Hello,
By accident I found out you make the cut for the right piece on the right side of the CMS, and the cut for the left piece on the left side of the CMS.

I set the CMS to 90*, cut the pieces as above and glued them along with using pocket screws.

The maddening thing about it was that the baseboard was simple 1x3 stock and going in the basement of a rental and they were going to be painted. Ultra tight and good looking joints weren't really required.
They ended up being near invisible.:rolleyes:

Upstairs, where the baseboard was finished natural, I went the traditional 45*. Every joint sticks out like a sore thumb (to me anyhow).:rolleyes:


In the few occasions when I needed to join base molding I just used a butt joint and a biscuit.
Good tip. Next time around I'll try the biscuit joiner instead of the pocket screws.

Scott Loven
09-04-2008, 8:01 AM
I was thinking of a but joint and pocket hole screws, but I suppose it depends on how thick the molding is, 1/2" is the minimum for pocket hole screws.

BOB OLINGER
09-04-2008, 9:28 AM
Mitering to a 45 deg and splicing over a stud is the correct way regardless of style or height of base. A little loss of material is part of the game.

Ted Miller
09-04-2008, 9:59 AM
Scarf at 10 degree and you will not even see it...

Jim Becker
09-04-2008, 10:00 AM
Scarfing over the stud is a normal practice in my view and it makes sense. Good finish carpentry isn't necessarily about saving material...the end result is more about installation technique. You have to expect some waste. This is from both observing the finish carpentry work in our recent addition and from my own subsequent work following the same "plan" in other areas of the house to match.

Darren Vass
09-06-2008, 9:35 AM
Thanks for all your help guys. I could not get all the baseboard on in time and I'm glad now that I did not put any on permanently because the rug was heavy and the guys did scuff some of my nicely newly painted walls. They did warn me about this before hand. Not much scuffing, mainly at a couple of outer corners. So, I'll touch up today and start shooting away (hey, that sounds like it could be a line in a James Taylor song!)

Darren