Cedar Shake Roof

[Lee Schierer]

When you install cedar shakes for a roof, would you also seal them with a wood preservative or is that not recommended?

[Randy Moore]

When you install cedar shakes for a roof, would you also seal them with a wood preservative or is that not recommended?


I think that would be best.

But why do you want a wood roof. We had one and I was VERY glad when it was gone.

Big fire hazard. I saw a 3000 SF home go up in smope in 30 minutes.

[Joe Pelonio]

I just had mine cleaned by a cedar roof specialist, and he's going to come back to treat it in a few weeks. He uses something with Copper Naphthenate which he says protects the wood from insects and decay.

[Jim Becker]

Sealers will extend the life supposedly. But I have to say, I'm glad to be rid of the cedar shakes...they came off as part of our addition project when we re-roofed the whole house. The 50 year architectural shingles we went to have pretty much the same look from the street as weathered cedar shakes without the maintenance.

[curtis rosche]

we took my step brothers old roof off and piled it up and lit it, 1 match no paper or fluid. we had 100+ft flames, we had to stand 150ft back from the pile because it was that hot

[Bill Eicher]

When the Santa Ana winds whip the brush fires in California it is usually the shake roofed houses that burn while the composition roofed house remain. The same thing happened last week in Boise, Idaho.

[Joe Pelonio]

Here in the great northwet we don't seem to have as much problem with fire as with moss. The cedar shakes do not attract and hold it as well as the comp shingles do. Still, a lot of people are changing over to them because the cost of cedar has gone so high.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You are in PA? Think moldy shingles.

I'd not do it even if I won Powerball and didn't care how often I had to replace 'em.

But, if you gotta do it try putting 'em in a barrel of the sealant and soaking for a week before applying them.
That way you'll have maximum penetration.

On the ugly side if you use a sealant that relies on copper or other metals for rot / bug resistance you will be drinking those metals in your well water assuming you have a well.

[curtis rosche]

you could always do tar and chip.

[Tom Godley]

I use to work as a volunteer at a couple historic houses - one had quite a few outbuilding with low roofs that we were allowed to work on.

Most commercial shingles -- even thirty years ago were not as thick as the old growth hand split shingles on the roofs of these old buildings. I remember a few of the roof experts (historic) not being too concerned with some "stuff" growing on the surface. In wet weather it was surprising how damp the top course of shingles was!

For long life, it all depended on exposer and ventilation. I remember when we roofed a building that no longer had any of the original roof structure remaining - we spent extra time making sure the ventilation was adequate. This, I was told was a major reason for failure in newer style roofs where shingles are installed over plywood with lath strips. It was also cool because we installed the roof as it would have been done before tarpaper and fabricated flashing.

As to sealing -- The experts always said that if the wood was sealed prior to installation, over time the exposed area would loose its coating and the shingle would not ventilate properly because the back would still be coated. They also did not recommend sealing after the roof was installed believing that this would hold any moisture that did get in behind the roof -- causing rot or cupping in the shingle.

I live in an area with a lot of shake roofs - I have a very old one on my house. I happen to like them - but they are very expensive to install properly -- and like to be left alone.

[Eddie Watkins]

Around here your insurance will just about double if you can get insurance at all for a shake roof. We are fairly arid, though.