Scary Sharp -- Info for Beginner

[Joe Vincent]

I'd like to learn the Scary Sharp method of sharpening plane irons and chisels. I understand the basic concept, but wonder whether there's a definitive resource on the web or a book or DVD that illustrates ALL the steps and describes the materials that will be needed? The stuff I've seen illustrates bits and pieces but not really everything that I think is necessary. Perhaps there's no one best source, but I thought I'd check to see if I'm missing something.

Thanks

[John Schreiber]

I don't know of any definitive source, but I could write one in my spare time. :rolleyes:

The concept is super simple, but the execution can be done in many different ways. The basic idea is to shape your blade using a course grit (I start with 80 if I have a lot of material to remove), then use progressively finer grits to get rid of the scratches (the final grit I usually use is 2000 and it doesn't even feel like sand paper). If the blade is already sharp, I usually start with 600, then 1000, then 2000.

I use spray on rubber cement (3M Super 77) and use the paper on plate glass. The paper works for a long time, even though it looks like much of the grit has worn off, it still works.

That's something to get you started.

Blade geometry, angles and microbevels etc., and how to control the blade as it is being sharpened, are other discussions.

[Joe Vincent]

Thanks, John. I guess I should say that it's some of the last stuff you mention that I'm most interested in. Particulary the proper direction of motion of the blade (I've read conflicting advice on whether it should go back and forth, forward only, or backward only), how long the strokes should be, how large a surface area of sandpaper is ideal particularly for plane irons, how many uses per piece of sandpaper are the norm. Those are questions that come immediately to mind.

[Joe Vincent]

Oh, and for plane irons how to round corners and also how to round the iron for situations where you don't want a straight edge. Thanks.

[John Schreiber]

Thanks, John. I guess I should say that it's some of the last stuff you mention that I'm most interested in. Particulary the proper direction of motion of the blade (I've read conflicting advice on whether it should go back and forth, forward only, or backward only),
After gluing down the paper, I always use a pull stroke for the first couple strokes, that helps flatten the paper, then I can go forward and back. When I'm putting on a micro bevel, I only pull. If the blade does catch on the paper and tears it, I can often keep on using it even though it's got a tear. One can go side to side, but on planes and chisels, I feel like I get a better edge going forward and backward. Carving blades are different and do well with a side to side for the final honing.

how long the strokes should be, how large a surface area of sandpaper is ideal particularly for plane irons,
I've got six grits on one sheet of glass. The 2000 and 1000 are each about 3x6", 600 and 400 are about 6x6, 220 and 120 are both half sheet size 5.5x9". Then when I don't have a grinder or belt sander and I need to reshape a blade, I place a full sheet of 80 over the top of the others without glue and work there.
how many uses per piece of sandpaper are the norm. I replace the 80 after perhaps 20 minutes of use. The others, which get far less use, last a long time, I've got the same paper on my setup after about three months, and I'm in the process of building a new workbench and planing every piece by hand.
Those are questions that come immediately to mind.
The other suggestion I have is to keep a whisk broom handy and brush off the sandpaper regularly. I actually grab the bristles and scrub with it to get the paper clean.

I use a Veritas roller for most sharpening, but when resharpening a micro bevel, I often do it by hand. I admire those who do the whole thing freehand, but I can't make that work reliably.

This is what works for me. Others may have completely different approaches that work for them. Keep on asking questions, then you can write the definitive description.:)

[John Schreiber]

Oh, and for plane irons how to round corners and also how to round the iron for situations where you don't want a straight edge. Thanks.
For the iron of a smoother, I keep using the roller guide and when I'm putting on the micro bevel, and only on the pull stroke, I alternately press on the corners and kinda lift the other side to get the very slight rounding required.

For a scrub plane, which is very rounded (~~3" radius), I get the bevel established in the middle with the guide, draw the arc with a Sharpie, then freehand the rest. It's not great, but it's close enough for a scrub.

[Joe Vincent]

Thanks very much for the info.

[Mike Cutler]

Joe

John gave ya' a lot of good info there.
Any sharpening system will be used by different people in different way. I guess another way to re-phrase the question would be to ask, How not to sharpen a blade. I think there would probably be more concrete answers to that question.

John states that he prefers the "pull stroke". I prefer the "push stroke", thus the debate could continue on ad nausea . In the end though it really doesn't matter unless you are getting less than acceptable results, then it's time to change something.

My advice would be to go the nearest flea market and buy the cheapest chisels you can find, a few plane irons would be good too. Practice putting an edge on the various sizes.
Work on flattening the backs, flattening the side bevels, experiment with different sharpening angles, adding micro bevels, make your own skew chisels. Experiment with bevel angles, and such.

In all honesty in about a week you'll know exactly what you need to know,and will have developed a methodology that works for you.

I used to think there was some arcane mystique associated with sharpening plane irons and such, there really isn't. It's just patience. (That Veritas Jig John referred to is a big help though. I highly recommend it.;))
Put some Bob Marley on the CD player, and experiment. It 's cool the first time you get a blade to the point that it shaves the hairs on your forearm off without pulling them.Then you'll be a sharpening junkie. Some of us have that affliction.:eek:

[Johnny Kleso]

I have some info on my website........

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/sharpening/scary_sharp/scary_sharp.htm

[John Schreiber]

I thought of one more thing which was very helpful for me in learning to sharpen. Not specific to scary sharp though.


http://www.labwarehouse.com/lw/itm_photos/34407.jpg
Here's one for $7.00. (http://www.labwarehouse.com/lw/category.cfm?category=43)I think wood supply catalogs should carry them.


I have a 30x cheap plastic microscope that I can use to look at the bevel. With that, I can easily see exactly what is really happening on the surface of the blade and I can tell when I've removed the scratches from the previous grit. It's also helpful for me to be able to see at a fine level what a burr or a micro bevel or what "just a little dull" looks like. I used it a lot when I was learning, but seldom do any more.

[Michael Dove]

I thought of one more thing which was very helpful for me in learning to sharpen. Not specific to scary sharp though.


http://www.labwarehouse.com/lw/itm_photos/34407.jpg
Here's one for $7.00. (http://www.labwarehouse.com/lw/category.cfm?category=43)I think wood supply catalogs should carry them.


I have a 30x cheap plastic microscope that I can use to look at the bevel. With that, I can easily see exactly what is really happening on the surface of the blade and I can tell when I've removed the scratches from the previous grit. It's also helpful for me to be able to see at a fine level what a burr or a micro bevel or what "just a little dull" looks like. I used it a lot when I was learning, but seldom do any more.


I have a bench mounted swing arm lighted magnifier that I use for the same reason. It also comes in handy for other detail oriented tasks so it always get used.

TTFN
Michael

[Will Blick]

LV sells one even nicer, 100x I think for $20....its superb for checking edges....but all these only work up to about 2000 grit IIRC...

after that, you need an electron microscope

[John Schreiber]

LV sells one even nicer, 100x I think for $20....its superb for checking edges....but all these only work up to about 2000 grit IIRC...

after that, you need an electron microscope
Actually, I saw one of these on line:

http://www.labwarehouse.com/lw/itm_photos/14466.jpg

It's got a USB port and displays right on your computer screen. It "Magnifies from 20X to 400X. (Has a 7.5mm field of view at 20X; 1mm at 400X.) Resolution is 1.3MP." It's only $130 and it's resolution is 1.3MP*!

But I'm sure one of those scanning electron microscopes would be fun too. I wonder if they are in the Grizzly Catalog.

* I have no idea what an MP is, but I want one anyway.

[Kevin French]

Here's the SS kit I gave my sister

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/sweeper54/shop/SS2.jpg

[Aaron Wingert]

Does the spray adhesive let go, or are the glass plates thrown away when the sandpaper is shot? The reason I ask is that I have a friend getting me a nice flat polished slab of (free) granite for the purpose of trying scary sharp. I'm just curious if the adhesive is removable when you need to change sandpaper.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Aaron,

I use spray adhesive, not the contact cement mentioned above. I find that I can pull it off, and wipe with mineral spirits and scrape the remaining residue off with a scraper. It is effortless and takes about 20 seconds. By the way, I purchased granite tiles for about $2.00 each. I have two grits on each tile, from 100 to 2000.

[Todd Hyman]

Aaron,

I use spray adhesive, not the contact cement mentioned above. I find that I can pull it off, and wipe with mineral spirits and scrape the remaining residue off with a scraper. It is effortless and takes about 20 seconds. By the way, I purchased granite tiles for about $2.00 each. I have two grits on each tile, from 100 to 2000.

Ditto This system works great for me too!

[glenn bradley]

Another vote for spray adhesive. Cleans off easily with lighter fluid (naphtha) between paper changes. I use the $2 tile for coarser grits and float glass for the finer ones. I didn't change to glass due to a problem with tile. I started with glass for the finer grits and added the tile after. . . . I guess what I'm blathering about is; there is nothing wrong with tile, I just happened to use glass ;-)

[Jim Koepke]

Carving blades are different and do well with a side to side for the final honing.


For gouges and such, my method is to use the gouge on a piece of scrap wood to create a matching profile to the side being sharpened. e.i. a concave shape for out cannel and convex for in cannel sharpening. Then adhere the sheet of sand paper to that and use it to sharpen.

The finer grits of sandpaper are not always available at the local hardware store. Try an auto supply store. They are used in auto refinishing. If they do not have it, they may be able to tell you where auto body repair shops get theirs.

A Google search of Scary Sharp gives a lot of links, this is just one of them.

Here (http://www.woodbutcher.net/scary.shtml)

The Veritas® MK II Power Sharpening System (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=48435&cat=1,43072) is basically a Scary Sharp system.

jim

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks gentlemen!

[Tom Henderson2]

Awesome post John. (I'm referring to #5 in this thread)

The "big picture" is generally pretty easily understood. The nitty-gritty details (how large should the sandpaper pieces be, etc) is often not described in much detail. So by filling in those blanks you are helping out a bunch of folks.

-TH

[Tom Henderson2]

Here's the SS kit I gave my sister

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g179/sweeper54/shop/SS2.jpg

Hi Kevin-

A couple questions... what do you use the mineral spirts for, and what is the wax used for?

THanks!

-TH

[Tom Henderson2]

Thanks for the pointer to the handheld microscopes... I ordered two -- the low power and the high power. For $6 each, what the heck....

I have a binocular eye loupe that I wear, and that works fine for the back flattening. But I think extra magnification will be helpful when doing the final edge honing and microbevels.

-TH

[Chris Schumann]

Another great surface for flattening is granite or marble. Places that sell countertops often sell their sink cutouts for very good prices. The surfaces are usually ground very flat.