G&G Inspired Nitestands

[glenn bradley]

I've made reference to these in a few posts and have been attempting to make them take longer than any project to date for no good reason ;-)

At any rate, the shoulders on a tenon make it hard to place a backer board. So when I thought to use the coping sled to miter the tenons I tapped a little chisel cut on the back side:

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Tenons mitered off fine:

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This is the general appearance from the back without the lower shelf:

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The plan includes the Blacker House leg details and emphasized and pegged finger joints on the drawer. The breadboard top is your typical G&G look. Ash with ebony for the details.

[Greg Cole]

Looks good Glenn.
G & G seems to be more & more popular lately for good reason, nicely designed yet functional and not overly ornate etc...
What finish do you have planned for the ash?

Greg

[glenn bradley]

Looks good Glenn.
G & G seems to be more & more popular lately for good reason, nicely designed yet functional and not overly ornate etc...
What finish do you have planned for the ash?

Greg

I'm still mulling that over. I had planned a BLO/varnish mix but am now wondering if that will be too dark for my purposes. I did a sample with just clear shellac that looked nice and really let the figure show. I will run a test board soon as I am getting close to making that decision. The other bedroom furniture is clear-coated knotty pine but it is being slowly displaced so I guess the finish selection is still a free-for-all ;-)

[Mark Carlson]

Glenn,

Looks good. I made the same nightstands but my cloud lifts are the exact opposite. I like the way yours look too.

~mark

[glenn bradley]

I got some time today to move the nightstand legs from a machined state through the first stage of shaping. Four sides down, 28 to go . . . you can tell I'm stalling on all this detail effort by hiding in here and posting about it :D.

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Here's the official "sanding station" for this activity. I have a foot switch on the vac for intermediate cleanup and my ambient cleaner is right overhead.

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[richard poitras]

Glenn how are you achieving the Green and Green style leg design on the sides of your legs?

[glenn bradley]

A shop made jig that straddles the leg with a small step to hold the leg at a slight angle. This will give you the rough shape you see in the leg on the left in the OP. Courtesy of Darrell Peart's book.

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Normally used on chairs, I adapted for the small nightstands I am making. Quick to make but obviously, part specific. This is the bottom view, the top has a slot for a collared straight bit that makes the depression.

The knuckle is done on a disc sander. Shaped sanding blocks assist in the hand shaping but, folded sandpaper and your fingers are the real "tools" involved to get the look.

[Jeff Bratt]

I've designed a version of that jig that works for any (practical) leg size. See pictures below. I really like Darrel's book, too... Greene & Greene: Design Elements for the Workshop (http://www.amazon.com/Greene-Design-Elements-Workshop/dp/0941936961/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1222585880&sr=1-1).

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[Walt Caza]

Hi Glenn,
I am just catching up on some project postings I missed.
I am only a couple months behind...
Your G&G nightstands are looking good.

I like the tip about pre-scoring to prevent tear-out.
I gotta stuff that one up my sleeve!

Take your sweet time,
hehehe
Walt

ps always interesting to see how others work...
I would have gone to the tablesaw on that one
:)

[Walt Caza]

Hi Glenn,
Good post. Nice job on a nyice detail. Really nyice!
I hope to expand my love of Arts & Crafts in a Greene direction someday.

Being the jig-master, I have no doubt you could fashion a flexible jig that
would be more than just part-specific. I guess there isn't really any need for it, though.
Sorry Jeff, I just noticed your cool jig.

Just keep your knuckles out of the disk when sanding your knuckles!
Keep us posted of your progress,
Walt

[John Thompson]

Nice work Glenn.. I finished a Mission coffee table about two weeks ago I started on Oct. 1. I allowed the finish to cure for two weeks and should bring it up for use Monday.

Have fun with those legs... :)

Sarge..

[Don Bullock]

Glenn,
The night stands are looking great. Thanks for posting your progress. I used to use ask for much of my furniture.

I'm planning on a G&G inspired table some time after I get into my new shop and seeing your night stands has encouraged me to get started on it as soon as I can.

[Jim Becker]

Ah, those are going to be really nice upon completion! 'Can't wait to see the continuing steps in this project, Glenn.

[Roy Wall]

I like the G&G look........this is going to be nice! Well done Glenn!

[glenn bradley]

Well, Walt went and glued up his chair stretchers so I had to follow suite even though I'm not in the chair-club-for-men :D.

Here's a couple side assemblies, shelf and rear apron. You can see the machining for the fig-8 connectors and the spanning brace.

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All joints are pegged tenons. The shelf is a pegged through tenon and will not be glued. Ebony 'pillows' will hide the pegs.

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I wanted the drawer front to echo the side and rear aprons in elevation. This meant no drawer frame at the front. Here's a bad pic of a recessed spanning brace that will work along with the lower shelf to keep the drawer hole correct over time. The drawer will slide on wooden runners not present yet.

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The things we go through to keep things square during glue up.

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[glenn bradley]

Surprising how much progress you can make when you are off work . . . if only they'd pay me to stay home . . . . not gonna happen :mad:

Using the guide holes drilled prior to squaring for the decorative 'pillows', I clamp and drill the peg holes. Glue in the pegs that hold the lower shelf and get ready to cut the fingers and runner grooves on the drawer parts.

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That's the drawer from the proto-type setting there. The tops are just setting on the legs and I notice they are out of position a bit in the pic but, you get the idea . . . playing with the desaturation features on the camera . . .

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[glenn bradley]

I'm a fan of sleds and setup blocks when it comes to repeating cuts. I use a stop block and a piece of scrap as an offset to cut a 5/8" notch 3/8" from each edge.

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I then use 1/4" setup block to nudge things over and again make the cut referencing the outer edge of each end of each drawer front.

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bing each out edge on a known width I get automatically centered, identical fingers. They stand 1/8" proud at the front where they will be rounded and left pronounced. They stand 1/32" proud at the sides and will be made flush during the drawer fitting effort.

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Except for height I have to make no changes to my dado stack for all of these cuts. I use the drawer side edge as a reference and run the piece over the dado one way then turn it around and run it again. The result is a centered slot ready to accept the drawer guides.

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[Greg Cole]

Very cool Glenn. The devil is in the details for the style. I like it.

Cheers.

[glenn bradley]

And to think I used less pegs than originally planned . . . bearing in mind that these are just decorative covers for the structural peg holes.

This jig is almost directly from Darrell Peart's book. The motion is side to side in the miter slot whilst spinning the blank.

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Using a sponge backer I move as if drawing a lot of little circles using 400 and then 600 grit.

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Then a little hand polishing. I can see why Darrell uses a rouge-wheel.

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Sure I could just lop the ends off but why not use the ultra expensive, high precision, pillow-peg depth-o-meter jig? I think the main benefit is that the cut-offs don't go flying off ;-)

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There are plenty of ways to get the end product. This routine gives me consistent plugs with a predictable face and well defined shoulders.

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[Walt Caza]

Hi Glenn,
Looks like you are coming along really good.
I have always admired and enjoyed what a strong jigman you are!
I cannot wait to try my hand at a G&G project of some sort.

Great quality work, pics and posting... I am smuggling out all the ideas I can...in my head!
Sweet approach to end up with consistant pillow plugs.
I like the repeatability of your set-ups.

Seems like you are getting some productive shop time.
Be careful not to do too much, you could gain momentum...
and jeopardize the 'longest-project-to-date-for no-reason-whatsoever' record.:D
Keep showing us your progress, it has been fun to follow.
see you in the sawdust,
Walt

[Dewey Torres]

Nice work Glenn,
How many of these are you building? I suggested to Walt that if we do another group build we try a G&G. I have been wanted to do something G&G for a while now.

You have taken lots of pics and time to explain your steps. Thanks for doing that!

[glenn bradley]

Got a bit of time between all the Christmas stuff, fixing LOML's washing machine, car maintenance and general holiday stuff.

Rough drawer on the left, shaped one on the right ready for square pegs.

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Old card works as a shield during the flush cut.

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Shear the peg off to clear the case . . . ooops, I'll have to do that later.

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I've got to clean up and go to LOML's work Christmas party . . . maybe I'll finish these before Valentine's???

[Don Bullock]

Glenn, thanks for the update on your nightstand build. I'm finding your narrative and pictures very handy. Similar tables are on my "must do" list after I get moved into my new shop.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks Don. Nice to know I'm not plodding along out here all on my lonesome :D. As long as I'm dragging these out till doomsday, they may as well be chronicled.

This is the method I prefer for wooden side-runner drawers. They are adjustable and stay put once aligned. The runner has a number of holes in it based on the length of run or weight anticipated for the drawer.

All of these are counter-bored with two or three of them having over-sized counter-bore holes. At the first stage all through-holes are the same. The pic shows a runner at the first and second stage and the receiver holes in the apron.

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Once the runner is generally in position, mark or drill the larger counter-bore receiver holes (in the apron) using the runner's through holes as a guide. Now drill out the through holes of the oversize counter-bore holes to a size 1/16" or so larger than the screw shaft. This allows for adjustment and the "other" holes can then be used to make the position fixed.

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One of the things I like about this method is that you only have to be 'close' in the initial positioning of the runner. I size them for a tight fit in the drawer-side groove so I can use a hand plane to tune them in.

[John Keeton]

Nice to know I'm not plodding along out here all on my lonesome :D.
Glenn, you are never alone on the creek. I check this thread every time I see an update! Love the progress reports and great work.

[glenn bradley]

Ooops, forgot the shots of the drawer in place . . .

[glenn bradley]

The breadboard splines are such a recurring element in a lot of things in the ultimate bungalow stage of G&G's designs that I thought I'd post a bit about how I'm doing them.

The rectangular spline blank is cut from some oversize stock and block planed to fit. Remembering this piece is decorative but functional in that it allows for wood movement while filling the slot and adding visual interest. The spline is glued to the top but not to the breadboard. The top can expand and contract and the spline slides in the breadboard slot.

The slot appears in the top and the breadboard. These are cut prior to assembly and have different depths.

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Here the thicknessed spline has been rough cut on the bandsaw to basic shape. The spline should fit like a dovetail or an M&T joint when dry fit; snug but without the need of a mallet to set it.

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A pass with the router takes it to 3/32" proud.

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A final pass leaves a 1/16" proud spline to match the pillow pegs that are coming next.

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A little hand chisel work to ease the edges and the overall surface will get sanded along with the rest of the top. BTW, the top is upside down in the last shot to better show the reveal.

[Walt Caza]

Hi Glenn,
Thanks for your progress pics.
These G&G details are such a treat!

I feel dumb to ask, but what is your router set-up to trim the bb splines to remain proud?
You got to full depth in two passes, and matched the contour of the bb end.
(maybe riding on a pair of different bearings?)

Care to share your appoach? I don't want to be a splineless wimp my whole life!
be well,
Walt

ps
Why are the slots in top and breadboard different depths?
Sounds like a complicating factor, there must be a reason/advantage?

[glenn bradley]

Care to share your appoach? I don't want to be a splineless wimp my whole life!

- Bwah-ha-ha . . ouch!

ps
Why are the slots in top and breadboard different depths?
Sounds like a complicating factor, there must be a reason/advantage?

- The spline is attached to the top which will move more than the breadboard due to grain direction. The slot in the breadboard has to allow the spline to move out and in. It's not a big deal to do as the breadboard and the top are slotted prior to assembly; do the top, crank the bit up about an 1/8" and do the breadboard ;-)

[glenn bradley]

You got to full depth in two passes, and matched the contour of the bb end.
(maybe riding on a pair of different bearings?)

You've got it. I cut the spline to a sloppy 1/8" oversize and glue it in so it will hold still. Run a straight bit with a bearing that will leave the spline 3/32" proud and then run a clean up pass with a different bearing to leave 1/16".

On these splines I used a 1/2" pattern bit. The real 'sizing' issue for the bit is the bearing. I like to run the largest bit possible but the bearing (which is of course, even larger) can't be too big to follow the contour or it looks funny.

[glenn bradley]

I'm down to deciding on the finish and the pulls. Here's the spline and the drawer fingers shown earlier after they are worked in.

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G&G use various elevations on their stuff to draw attention. These are small pieces and I may have gone overboard with the variations but, its all a learning experience for me ;-)

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I'm leaning toward a dark finish but not so dark that I lose the contrast of the ebony details. No fear of that in this pic. Talk about screaming for a finish.

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[glenn bradley]

A couple of you have been good enough to smack me for skipping over some details. Anyone who has Darrell Peart's wonderful G&G book has seen some variation on these techniques. A simple bench stop allow back-beveling of the pillows. The little riser just helps position the plug to the height I want and is not necessary:

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Start the cut just below the shoulder. The idea is to ease the insertion pressure required and to expose a clear shoulder break that is proud of the surface after the plug is set:

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A Glue-bot makes getting the glue in the tight spots without a mess really easy:

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I knew those free AOL CD's were good for something besides starting that man-made reef off the Florida coast:

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Presto, consistent depth plugs:

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[glenn bradley]

I finally decided on a pull style I like. I like to work some ebony parts after they become part of the piece. I'm a bit ham-handed and tend to get a bolted-on look on some of these parts. Working them in place helps me with this; YMMV.

To help others avoid the DAMHIKT moment I had awhile back I though I'd share this tip:

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After shaping I use a blow gun to remove the ebony dust. This allows me to shape and burnish the ebony without transferring dark dust to the lighter (ash in this case) wood which can be a pain to remove.

[Dewey Torres]

Alright Glenn. You appear to be on the home stretch now. I hope I didn't jinx you by saying so.

[Jim Kountz]

Well I have apparently been under a rock since I just found this thread Glen.
I really like what you've done here taking the time to chronicle the entire build and a fantastic job you're doing with it too!! I know this has been asked but Im wondering if you decided on a recipe for the finish yet. I know whatever you choose this project is going to come out stunning!!

[glenn bradley]

I was cleaning out my picture folder and realized I had never posted these with the finish on.

[Jim Kountz]

Glenn those came out beautiful!! Your attention to the small details is amazing and it really makes the whole piece. The way all the through tenons are evenly rounded on the ends, the spline in the breadboard ends are made to follow the top profile, everything is just right. Fantastic job!!

[Don Bullock]

WOW!!! They look fantastic. I greatly appreciate all the time and effort you went through to share this "build" with those of us on Sawmill Creek. Thank you.

[Keith Starosta]

Glenn, they look great!!

Can you fill us in on the finishing schedule? What type of stain did you use?

Thanks!

- Keith

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, they look great!!

Can you fill us in on the finishing schedule? What type of stain did you use?

Thanks!

- Keith

The finish was a challenge. The ash I had held a yellow cast that was stronger than expected. Early samples of the Transtint Dark Mission Brown that I wanted to use actually turned green on this material.

I tried several products; anything with a hint of red in it turned orange, anything with blue in it turned green. My final finish was a mix, formula number 10 or so I think:

240 parts Olympic oil based Early American
3 parts Transtint Brown Mahogony
1 part Transtint Dark Mission Brown

Flood the material and let stand 15 minutes or until dry spots start.
Rub off the extra thoroughly.
About 6 coats of clear dewaxed shellac.
Two coats of gloss poly on the tops for durability.
Paste wax.

That got me close to the oak look I was after. I've got a bunch of mahogonay so the remaining pieces may get made out of that so I can just oil and top coat them (I think).

Sketchup to product:

[Mark Valsi]

Beauuuuuuuuuuuutiful !!

wish you would have made them from Mahogany !!!

[Darrell Peart]

Great looking project Glenn!

Darrell

[glenn bradley]

Beauuuuuuuuuuuutiful !!

wish you would have made them from Mahogany !!!

Me too. The ash was a bit of an experiment and like many "cost saving" ideas of mine, actually cost much more in time and effort than it was worth. The finish was very pesky and the results were quite inconsistent. There was a lot of touch up here and there to try to even things out. I have a good supply of mahogany that I won't be "saving" when I do future pieces ;-)

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks Darrell. I really enjoy your work and your book was very helpful in my first attempt at this style. I used your jig for the Blacker House leg treatments and your pillow block jig idea as well for the ebony. Thanks for all that and your G&G enthusiasm in general.

Glenn, which one of Darrell's book specifically did you use? I'd love to make those jigs as well.

Thanks!

[Russ Massery]

Stunning Glenn Very well done!

[Bruce Page]

Glenn, I have really enjoyed this thread, thanks! Your nightstands with all of the time honored G&G details look stunning.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, which one of Darrell's book specifically did you use? I'd love to make those jigs as well.

Thanks!

Darrell's book is titled 'Greene and Greene, Design Elements for the Workshop' . . . get it here: http://www.furnituremaker.com/purchase.htm

P.s. I get no kickback for this :D:D:D

[glenn bradley]

Great looking project Glenn!

Darrell

Thanks Darrell. I really enjoy your work and your book was very helpful in my first attempt at this style. I used your jig for the Blacker House leg treatments and your pillow block jig idea as well for the ebony. Thanks for all that and your G&G enthusiasm in general.