Turning Advice

[Scott Mann]

I recently picked up my first lathe. It is an old Craftsman that my brother-in-law gave me. It's 36" long with a 6" swing. It came with 3 tool rests, several face plates and a set of tools (Craftsman turning tools). I am brand new to turning and wanted some advice on:

1. How to tune up the lathe. It seems to run well, but I was thinking of replacing the belt with a link belt. Any other suggestions of things I should look at?

2. Tools. I will be replacing the turning tools (they are cheap) and wanted some advice on good quality tools that are reasonably priced.

3. Sharpening. I have a 6" Delta grinder that I picked up a few years ago. I still have the original wheels that came with it. Should I upgrade to a slow speed and get the aluminum oxide wheels? Any grinding jig advice?

Any other advice on anything I might have missed would be great. Thanx in advance for the help.

[Wilbur Pan]

This takes a little mechanical know how, but if you can replace the bearings in the headstock, that will make any lathe run better.

[Tom Steyer]

1. How to tune up the lathe. It seems to run well, but I was thinking of replacing the belt with a link belt. Any other suggestions of things I should look at?

A link belt might provide smoother transmission of power, but if it seems to be running pretty nicely, not a big priority (If you like turning, you'll be getting a new, larger lathe real soon)

2. Tools. I will be replacing the turning tools (they are cheap) and wanted some advice on good quality tools that are reasonably priced.

Don't buy a "set" - if you do, get a cheaper set like from Penn State or Steelex. In general the lathe you have is only practical for spindle work, so start with a good roughing gouge, a 3/8" spindle gouge, and a parting tool. Don't buy anything that isn't M-2 high-speed steel or better. You might want to look at the tools offered at www.thompsonlathetools.com They are very inexpensive for the high quality offered, and they come unhandled, so you can get good practice turning your own handles for them. Crown and Sorby among others make good quality roughing gouges - get a 1-1/4" model.

3. Sharpening. I have a 6" Delta grinder that I picked up a few years ago. I still have the original wheels that came with it. Should I upgrade to a slow speed and get the aluminum oxide wheels? Any grinding jig advice?

Get the Woodcraft 8" slow speed grinder, the Oneway Wolvering system, and the Oneway Vari-grind jig. Keep the old grinder away from your cutting tools.

Any other advice on anything I might have missed would be great. Thanx in advance for the help.

Join a local turning club for mentoring and/or take some classes if available in your area.

[Ron McKinley]

All good advice above. Check the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. Put a spur drive in the headstock and a live center with a point in the tailstock and bring them up together almost touching and lock the tailstock. The two probably won't align perfectly but if within 1 /32" you'll be fine. If more than that look for a way to align the two either from the headstock or tailstock end.

A link belt will cause less vibration and while you're at it make sure the pulleys are aligned.

Tools: Don't buy expensive turning tools until you learn how to sharpen them. The house brand tools at Craft Supplies U.S.A. (http://woodturnerscatalog.com/) and Packard Woodworks (http://www.packardwoodworks.com/) are great tools reasonably priced.)Buy a sharpening jig like the Oneway Wolverine and watch their videos. Go to http://oneway.ca/ and download the videos.

Grinder: a 6" grinder is fine if you keep the wheels clean and flat with a good diamond dresser. Use a very light touch with a 3450rpm grinder. Later you may want to upgrade to a slow-speed 8" grinder.

Good luck and welcome to the Big Black Hole of turning! ......Ron

[Denis Puland]

Scott:
Seems to me like you have everything you need for the time being.
Before you empty your wallet of any of your hard (easy??) earned money get some wood and turn some projects.
Read a book or two, surf the net, Get your feet wet and then when you have used your cheap tools and lathe you will have the knowledge to make most of those decisions your self.

The most important thing right now is for to make some shavings and then some more shavings and ...

Denis


I recently picked up my first lathe. It is an old Craftsman that my brother-in-law gave me. It's 36" long with a 6" swing. It came with 3 tool rests, several face plates and a set of tools (Craftsman turning tools). I am brand new to turning and wanted some advice on:

1. How to tune up the lathe. It seems to run well, but I was thinking of replacing the belt with a link belt. Any other suggestions of things I should look at?

2. Tools. I will be replacing the turning tools (they are cheap) and wanted some advice on good quality tools that are reasonably priced.

3. Sharpening. I have a 6" Delta grinder that I picked up a few years ago. I still have the original wheels that came with it. Should I upgrade to a slow speed and get the aluminum oxide wheels? Any grinding jig advice?

Any other advice on anything I might have missed would be great. Thanx in advance for the help.

[Scott Mann]

Thanx for the advice everyone!

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

BTW, I believe that the "swing" is 12". (6" from the center of the drive center to the bed/ ways).

Bruce

[Christopher Fletcher]

Yes, to the AO White wheels. I have an 80 and 120 grit white wheels on an 8" VS Delta. My "slow" speed is 1750 rpms, on an 8 inch circumference. If sharpening at 3500 rpms on a 6" grinder with the original gray wheels, you will be replacing your tools very soon. Very strong yes to the wolverine system, although $$$. There is similiar system that costs a bit less, so definitely shop around - with coupons or atleast free shipping!

I have to disagree with the common answer about not upgrading to higher quailty tools. I started using crapsman lathe tools and had a pretty tough time working the gouge and skew at first. I got some heavier and better quailty tools and catch a lot less with the better tools. They just cut better and don't have near the vibration because of their girth and weight. From a safety standpoint, I can't justify telling a person to turn with inferior quailty tools at the risk of having a bowl fly at your face because of a bad catch. Which brings me to....

Face sheild is a must. Let's not kid ourselves here, safety goggles won't keep your jaw from getting cracked open if you throw a 5 pound hunk of wood at it. If you want to turn spindles, then your hobby is much cheaper. But if you want to turn bowls, you're going to want to invest in a good quality chuck and jaw set and of course a faceplate - not to be confused with face shield.

Wood should be free. Always!:D Seriously, try and hook up with an arborist or a dump location that can provide you with free practice wood. Search CL for firewood or just wood and you'll be surprised how many people are happy to give it to you for free.

Post many pictures for us all to drool over. Especially wood gloats.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Scott,

Welcome to the Vortex! Take a photo of any money you currently have in your wallet. Frame the photo and mount it on the wall above your lathe so you can remember what money used to look like.

A couple of recommendations if I may:

1. Search for a local turning club. If there is one, join. Turner's by nature are generous and I'm sure some will befriend and volunteer to assist you in learning to turn.

2. A book..."Wood turning: A Foundation Course" by Keith Rowley. Excellently written and illustrated book pointed directly at the beginning turner. It's my "go to" reference and can often be found next to my lathe.

3. While there are some good expensive tools out there, there are some good not so expensive ones too! Benjamin's Best sold by PSI are well like by many Creekers. I found a local hardware store (30 miles away but still local to me) that sells Robert Larson tools. Larson's are Sheffield steel manufactured in England but the handles are put on here the States. They aren't Sorby's or any of the better known expensive tools but they are good and at a better price. I also have some of the Sorby's and other expensive ones. I still like my Larson's.

4. DVDs....... "Turned Bowls Made Easy" by Bill Grumbine.....any of the Richard Raffin DVDs.

5. There are a multitude of websites with information and videos about turning.

Good luck and hang on for the ride!

[Ron McKinley]

BTW, if it's really a 12" swing, single tube Craftsman there is a cap at the tailstock end of the tube that can be removed and you can adjust the tailstock. Make sure when you adjust it and then lock the tailstock the alignment is still good. With that particular lathe locking the tailstock changed the alignment slightly.....Ron