Box Joint Jig for a Bandsaw?

[Mark Kelly]

Ok, I admit, I don't have a tablesaw yet. I can pretty much do without it using a CMS, circular saw and bandsaw. For now anyway! :)

Anyone have any thoughts on how to make a box joint jig for a bandsaw? What I am most concerned about is cutting the joints perfectly like a table saw jig. I can use a chisel if I have to to remove the waste of the joints that are cut too.

I have some recovered white oak floor planks that I plan on using to make a few book boxes/chests for my kids. I need them nice and heavy!

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Do you have a router table? That would be my choice in lieu of a table saw and dado blade. The bandsaw might prove to be very "work intensive" for this particular joint and would require the chisel cleanup your describe.

[Mark Kelly]

Actually, yes, I do. Sheesh, and I didn't even think of that. Would I set that up just like a table saw box-joint jig?

The only other think I wonder about is....typically you are not supposed to cut more than 1/8" inch on router table....so would I have to make 4 passes on the router table to cut a 1/2" joint?

[Lars Thomas]

I think you would really struggle with cuttig box joints on a bandsaw. There are probably aton of plans for build the jig (or you clould buy one). Here's one: http://www.woodmagazine.com/default.sph/wcontent_user.class?FNC=TopPageLink__Astory1_html_ __7___47___129___146___1

By the way, don't feel like the router is limted to 1/8" cut. If I was doing box joints, I would cut up to 3/8" in one pass.

[Jim Becker]

The only other think I wonder about is....typically you are not supposed to cut more than 1/8" inch on router table....so would I have to make 4 passes on the router table to cut a 1/2" joint?
Consider that folks who use the Incra system for dovetails and box joints regularly cut these very short routes in one pass. (You have to for dovetails) What's more important is using a jig (yes, similar to what you would use on a table saw) that not only guides the material and holds it securely, but also provides a backer block to prevent excessive tearout.

The "rule" for multiple passes is important for long cuts, however, to avoid breaking smaller bits, etc.

[Joseph N. Myers]

Mark,

Using a router to do box joints is fairly common (table saw is much more common). As far as the 1/8, I think that it applies more for going across or with the grain, e.g., dado's or rabbits, then with the end or edge of the wood. The Leigh Jig, Eagle America catalog (1-800-872-2511) and Wood, October, 2000, "Big-Time Box-Joint Jig"/"How to cut Large Glue Joints" all show using a 3/4" bit cuttng 3/4" deep (actually add 1/32" to the depth that will later be sanded off).

One of the major disadvantage of using a router over the table saw is the width of the wood. If you are using a stack dado blade, you can pretty much adjust the blade to match the width of the wood. With a router, you have to adjust the thickness of the wood to match the router bit (i.e., planer). An example of this is the special bits they have for plywood as plywood is usually undersized.

Of course, you could always make multiple passes with a narrower bit to get the right size but that is quite a pain. And if you have a scroll saw, you could use it to make box joints --- I have friends that have done that for their scroll saw work but they are retired and have the time.

Good Luck, Joe