Need a jig for fluted pilasters...

[Jason White]

I need to come up with a jig to make a couple of fluted pilasters out of 5/4 AZEK. I'm thinking I'll use my plunge router with a box core bit, but am not sure on what to use as far as a jig. The flutes need to be very evenly-spaced. I've got a stock edge guide for my Bosch plunger, but one wrong move and my very expensive 5/4 stock is toast.

I'm including some pics of what I'm trying to replicate. Any suggestions?

Jason

[Jim Galvin]

The box core bit will not give you the same detail at the end of the flute since the depth varies towards the end. These are traditionally hand carved. I recall Lonnie Bird shows this in one of his books. Period Furniture Details is the name???

Jim

[john bateman]

I used an edge guide and got fine results. You just need to measure accurately, and move the router in the correct direction so that it doesn't try to climb cut. If you draw accurate marks on the wood first, you can substitute a pointy bit in the router to check your alignment, before using the round nose bit.

Also, instead of changing the edge guide setting, you can just set it for the innermost groove first. Then insert spacer strips alongside the pilaster, to move the bit further away from the center, for each succesive cut.

And be sure to clamp stop blocks at each end so all cuts end at the same length.

Altenatively, you could just make a plywood jig that the router travels in, allowing no side to side movement. Then reposition the stock under it for each groove.

[Frank Drew]

Jason,

You'll only need three setups to do six flutes; an edge guide and end stops, as John says, should do you fine. Use some scrap stock for practice and getting your settings right.

I've done it on a shaper, but four flutes, not six, so only two settings were necessary.

[Jamie Buxton]

Are your new columns going to be painted, like the example? Or are they going to be clear-coated hardwood? If the former, you can plunge the box-core bit. If the latter, simply plunging the bit leads to burning, which is difficult to sand out. There's a more elaborate jig to avoid this, but it isn't necessary for painted columns.

[Lee Schierer]

The box core bit will not give you the same detail at the end of the flute since the depth varies towards the end. These are traditionally hand carved. I recall Lonnie Bird shows this in one of his books. Period Furniture Details is the name???

Jim

If you make a stop block for the ends, your can incorporate a ramp which will lift the core box bit at a prescribed rate if you want the ends of the slots to taper from full depth to nothing. The ramp will also eliminate the burning you would tend to get at the ends either from plunging in or trying to stop the cut with the router still running.

[Frank Drew]

Are your new columns going to be painted, like the example? Or are they going to be clear-coated hardwood?

The OP said he was going to use AZEK, which is new to me but I gather is some kind of PVC.

[Larry Fox]

I have done this a few times and each time it has required a LOT of jigging to get the distance right and to make sure that you stop them in the correct spot. I used a core box bit and, as another poster pointed out, you need to be careful of burning and the direction of travel. I am convinced that there must be a better way but I have not found it.

Depending on how long and deep they are and how many you have to do you might be able to do them with a scratch stock. You would definitely be able to have better control there.

I am also with others in that I don't know what AZEK is.

[Alex Berkovsky]

Jason,
ShopNotes Issue 89 shows how to make a jig with a ramp to taper the flutes.

[Frank Drew]

Unless they were specific about it, I don't think the average client would expect graded exits to the flutes, and I think they look fine just stopped. There is one hand-worked detail you can incorporate - a reverse curve at the bottom of the flutes, but that's a hot lick also not commonly expected (IMO) in fluted work although you do see it in period pieces.

[Jim Heffner]

I made some of those fluted pilasters for a fireplace enclosure a while back myself and I made 5 vertical flutes in each column. I did make start/stop blocks at each end of the column but no other jig or fixture
was used. I did use the horizontal edge guide for my Dewalt 616 router,
it works really great especially the micro adjust feature.

I first carefully made all the layout lines where I wanted the flutes to be,
set up the router, started at the center flute and worked to the edge of the board. After I did one board, moved to the second one, then the third,and the fourth and it was done! Next step, sand everything, clean up the mess and start assembly. The best part was a good router with
a good edge guide and a core box bit, that made short work of it all!
Hope this helps. Jim Heffner

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I made some fluted pilasters for an upcoming remodel on my home's exterior (computer drawing below). I used Never-Rot. Home Depot carries a similar product made by Veranda which I recently used for trimming the front door. This stuff is more foam-like versus Azek which is more PVC-like. Azek also leaves a better machined surface.

Either way, I've said 'good bye' to natural wood for exterior stuff.

For the fluting, I used a round nose bit and an edge guide on a plunge router. I recommend that you use a full face shield and a dust mask.

Also, if you're going to paint the pieces, don't worry about boo-boos. There's always epoxy wood filler to the rescue. :)

-Jeff :)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Beff2/Presentation1.jpg

[Rob Cunningham]

I've done several projects with fluted pilasters. I made a jig for my router similar to the one in this article. It worked out pretty well.
http://www.kerryfullington.com/fjig/

Here's another one I just found. Similar idea.
http://consultingwoodworker.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/Fluting_Jig_11_x_17.280180128.pdf

[Joe Scharle]

If it me, I'd invest 2 hours in a jig with adjustable fences on both sides. As mentioned there are jigs in many mags for this operation. I built one a few years ago to flute columns and the idea is basically the same. Knowing that the bit can't move off track relieves a lot of stress.