Rowmark Red Edge Bleed

[Pete Simmons]

Laser cut out some small id badges using Rowmark LaserMax (RED)

They look great but if you drag the laser cut edge over a white cloth the red rubs off.

Suggestions to stop the bleed??

I can just see these name tags leaving a red mark on a nice white shirt.

[Mike Null]

Pete

I spray them with a diluted household cleaner after engraving but before cleaning. My theory is that will put the particles in suspension then I can wipe off. Some people use a Mr. Clean eraser.

Others use a transfer paper mask.

[James Rambo]

Right or wrong I use rubbing alcohol on rag and on edges. What does everyone think?

[Joe Pelonio]

Red is the worst for this. I use denatured alcohol.

[Pete Simmons]

Thanks for the info.

Another question

Is there such a thing as 2 sided LaserMax?

These tags are for a charity and I want to add my logo to the back.

How about a quick spray of some Krylon Fusion paint on the back as in a coat of white over the red, and engrave my logo thru the white paint so the red shows.

I am considering masking off the top half of the back so that the double back tape clip attachment can stick to the LaserMax without the paint.

Whadda think?

[Mike Null]

I use small labels on most of my name tags. About 1/2" x 1 1/2". I buy them about 10,000 at a time and they run less than 3 cents each.

It's amazing how often one of these labels produces an order.

[Bob Cole]

I've occasionally seen engraved signs with the company's logo on a sticker on the back. Seems like a very good idea but I got to wondering if any customers would have a problem with that.

[Mike Null]

Bob

I've never had a complaint. I don't put them on tags which will be re-sold by my customers.

[Bill Cunningham]

I used to use stickers, but found that if I just flip over the badge, I can quickly laser a Promo line right into the plastic back.. It's subtle, by readable..

[Scott Erwin]

I have had the same problem. I have used plastic cleaner #1 and #2 on a rag, used Mr. Clean (didnt like that at all), watered down citrus cleaner, full strength citrus cleaner (various brands), even wood cleaner (trying to think out of the box) and nothing seems to be just right. I have not tried denatured alcohol as Joe suggests, and I trust what he says...so I guess it is off to the store for yet another attempt to clean the plastic.

I agree having the red (or any color for that matter) rub off on that brand new special one of a kind, Versace, white, silk dress would be a real bummer....

[Pete Simmons]

Acetone seems to work well.

Sometimes to well - read on.


"Extra Strength" from Ace - a drop on a smooth surface last about 0.00023 seconds. I am in Fla and it seems to be about 95 degrees in the shade and makes this stuff evaporate quickly.

This Acetone will easily remove the red dust. It also easily removes the white topcoat.
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"Full Strength" from a grocery - store a drop on a smooth surface lasts maybe 5 - 20 seconds. It works on the red dust and stays around on a rag for a minute or 2 so you can use it. Plus it is cheaper. It will also remove the white topcoat but you need to work on it a little.

In this case the lower powered stuff WINS!


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I am only doing a small run of these but I decided to paint part of the back of the name tag white so I can laser my logo as an ad there ( this is a charity job)

If I was going to be doing more I would look into stickers.

I have ruined to many with the paint thing. Paint getting on edge and running onto front. Now remember these are cheap and I am not spending a lot of time setting up a good paint mask system but it has been a pain.

[Pete Simmons]

I did try masking the front, lasering and painting. Then lasering the rest of the logo.

This did result in a 3 color LaserMax - it worked well and looks fine.

Just adds yet another step or 2.

The white specks showing in the yellow do not seem to show except with the flash picture. The yellow paint looks good to the naked eye.