Shop Flooring

[Jim Finn]

I am interested in ideas to make a resiliant floor in my workshop that I can sweep clean of sawdust easily. (Over concrete) Any suggestions?

[Casey Gooding]

It may not be what you had in mind, but if I could have it my way, I would have a wood floor in the shop. Pretty easy to clean and better for the back and knees.

[Jim Finn]

Yes, upper back problems is what I am trying to help reduce. I have thought of multi layers of foam pad, normaly used under carpet, under plywood and linolium. I am wondering if anyone else has tried that.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Casey. A wood surface would be my first choice. Even a floating plywood floor over rigid foam as FWW showed some time ago would be worthy of consideration.

[Steve Jenkins]

I have a couple of horse stall mats in areas where I stand a lot. They are about an inch thick and really solid yet have some give. they sweep pretty easily too if you put the smoother side up. It isn't smooth by any means so it doesn't get slippery with sawdust it just has one face different than the other.

By the way nice pic Mr. Becker

[David G Baker]

All of my work floors are concrete. I haven't done it yet but I keep seeing the reddish color anti fatigue mats in Sam's Club and at some point I am going to get a few of them and use them in areas where I am on my feet a lot. My feet and knees are starting to pay the price. I have also looked at the horse stall mats at Tractor Supply as an alternate choice like Steve suggested.

[Brad Clarkston]

Scott Gibson's article in Fine Woodworking's 'Workshop Solutions' "Add a Wood Floor" (June 08) is pretty good it's a simple floating floor using pressure treated 2x4's 16" on center glued down with construction adhesive and screws.

Once that's done you put rigid-foam insulation down between the 2x4's, then a vapor barrier and finally tongue-&-groove 3/4 plywood.

- Brad

[Wayne Cannon]

Don't go overboard on cushioned mats. You want a nice firm surface. If the surface feels soft when you walk on it, it is probably too soft. If you don't have firm support underfoot, your leg and back muscles have to work more to maintain your balance. By the end of the day your legs and back are tired -- even if your tootsies feel pampered.

[Denny Rice]

If you don't want to go to the expence of putting down a wooden floor over the concrete, you can keep the concrete and look at the 2 part Epoxy flooring kits sold at the BORG and the HD stores. My shop is 34x30 and has concrete floors covered with this stuff and has been down for almost 5 yrs, it has held up great. With a soft brissle broom it is very easy to sweep up. The kits come in multiple colors and come with paint chips that can be spead out as the floor is applied to give it a rough texture, it takes about 24 hrs to walk on and they say to give 72 hrs before putting anything heavy on it like a car.

[William Hutchinson]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/wlhutch/flooring.jpg
I used PVC tile over concrete when I renovated the garage into a woodworking shop. It's easy on the knees, cleans well (paint will not stick) and quick "snap together" installation. Heavy tools (ie 18" bandsaw) roll well and have not damaged the tiles when left stationary-- for the past year.
It will generate static electricity during the colder months and you must allow for expansion/contraction.

[Travis Rassat]

If you don't want to go to the expence of putting down a wooden floor over the concrete, you can keep the concrete and look at the 2 part Epoxy flooring kits sold at the BORG and the HD stores. My shop is 34x30 and has concrete floors covered with this stuff and has been down for almost 5 yrs, it has held up great. With a soft brissle broom it is very easy to sweep up. The kits come in multiple colors and come with paint chips that can be spead out as the floor is applied to give it a rough texture, it takes about 24 hrs to walk on and they say to give 72 hrs before putting anything heavy on it like a car.

I agree with Denny. I've also had good luck with epoxy and I like it a lot. It makes a huge difference for sweeping and mopping. On the flip side, it can also be very slippery when wet, and won't help your back at all.

I'd like to do something like this:

http://www.ecosurfaces.com/ecoesd/esdflooring.htm

But, I'm sure it's pretty expensive - I've looked into similar products in the past.

[Bill Arnold]

I've used the 2' square foam pads that lock together and are available just about everywhere in solid black or in a four color pack. I place them on my concrete floor in areas where I stand for expended periods -- table saw, miter saw, etc. My usual footwear is a pair of running shoes with good arch support.

[Gary Lange]

The Winter 2002/2003 Issue of Tools and Shops from Fine Woodworking has and article on putting down a wood floor. They started with 6-mil Polyethylene Sheeting then placed 2"X4" Pressure treated lumber on 16" centers, 4" side down, with Ridgid Foam Insulation between them and topped off with another 6-mil polyethylene sheeting and then 3/4" Tongue and Groove Plywood screwed down. You could then paint this or put down some good commercial tile.

[JD Dolan]

You might look at Dri-Core panels. They're 2x2' sheets of OSB with a laminated insulated plastic underneath. I used a similar product that rolls out (made by Cosella Dorkin: http://www.deltams.com/ ), and put regular OSB over that, and then put down tongue and groove plywood on top.

Both of these products allow air to flow underneath.

I got mine at Lowe's.

J.D.

[Jim Finn]

Thank you all... for your ideas.

[Roger Jensen]

I used Tuff-Seal interlocking tiles in my shop and I really like them. They click together very tightly so no dust falls between/underneath the tiles. They are firm enough that I can roll my tools over them, including my SS tablesaw. Only problem was that they are on the pricey side.

Roger

[Artie Hall]

This is an interesting subject, and one that I didn't realize was a consideration. If I'm standing stationary for a period of time, how do my feet know whats underneath them? (Assuming I'm not standing in a pool of water.) Does this have to do with the heat transfer, or something else? Would a pair of Dr. Scholls serve the same purpose?

Not trying to be funny there, I'm just not sure what the points are. Thanks all.

Artie

[Samuel A. Livingstone]

I used similar or the same 2 foot interlocking pads in front of my work bench and machines - tablesaw -jointer and planer. They are too soft to rest a machine on but feel great for my feet. I use shop vac to clean areas.
Sam

[Don Bullock]

This is an interesting subject, and one that I didn't realize was a consideration. If I'm standing stationary for a period of time, how do my feet know whats underneath them? (Assuming I'm not standing in a pool of water.) Does this have to do with the heat transfer, or something else? Would a pair of Dr. Scholls serve the same purpose?

Not trying to be funny there, I'm just not sure what the points are. Thanks all.

Artie

Artie, I was a teacher for 37 years and I spent many of those years standing on concrete floors. It's not just the feet we're concerned about when selecting flooring for the shop. My hips have suffered as well, perhaps more than my feet. I found that even a thin indoor/outdoor carpet was much better on my feet, legs and hips than the concrete. When I was moved out to a "portable" building with the cheap carpet on a raised foundation the impact on my body was reduced greatly.

[Prashun Patel]

Check out the latest issue of the Family Handyman. They review a bunch of garage flooring options.

[Tom Clark FL]

Before you start laughing too hard, consider this idea for a minute…

I have a piece of carpet purchased as a remnant at the local flea market. It was very cheap, and I thought it would be easily replaceable, but after 11 years it is still going strong.

It is wonderful on the feet, easy on projects as you roll them over while assembling them, and catches all the stains and finishes that I normally slop everywhere.

The carpet is easy to sweep using an old shop vac with a floor nozzle. I still use the large rubber pads over the carpet in areas where I stand a lot, such as in front of the workbench and bandsaw.

Just an idea. Works for me!

[David G Baker]

Tom,
I replaced a bunch of carpet in my home and had on large piece that was in good condition that ended up on the floor in my garage under my car to catch any drips and collect a lot of dirt. Never thought of my shop floor, thanks for the idea.

[john taliaferro]

i am thinking about 4x4x4 oak bloks with cherry pattern. i have to build up the floor for a machine. i have the wood.

[harry strasil]

I have been disabled since jan of 06 with 5 bulging discs in my lower back, shop time was restricted to 15 minutes standing and an hour setting. I went to the wood show in KC and got some of the 2 ft sq interlocking flooring from the Peachtree WWing booth, and it worked wonders, now the times are reversed. Unfortunately I didn't get enough so had to order more online, and its reasonable in price compared to everyplace else.

Just my $.02 worth.

[Roy Griggs]

Jim,
I've been working on these 2'x2'x 1/2"thk. mats for going on 5 years now and they are the cats meow.
I am able to stand at my bench for hours without suffering in either my lower back or feet. A pkg. of 8 or 16' sq. at Sams runs in the neighborhood of $24, last time I checked. Easy to sweep, although sawdust does get in the cracks to some extent. When they get dirty you take them outside and hose them off. Another benefit is they save tools...most dropped tools bounce and are fine. Excuse my math, that's 32' sq.

[harry strasil]

Roy, pkg of 8 2 by 2 squares is 32 sq ft, at $24, they are cheaper than the pkgs of 4 at Peachtree for $18.99 with a discount for 2 pkgs, P tree also carries the tapered edging. I have my whole floor covered in my small shop and they are easy to cut to size if need be.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/shop_accessories.htm#1202

[Travis Rassat]

Here's another place to find interlocking padding floor mats - eBay's fitness section:

http://sporting-goods.listings.ebay.com/Fitness-Equipment_Exercise-Mats_W0QQdfspZ32QQfromZR4QQsacatZ44079QQsocmdZList ingItemList

I bought the Daytona mats for my home gym that are really nice, although I am not sure if they're the same density as the ones other people have mentioned. Oddly enough, the idea of using these in my shop never even crossed my mind until now. I might have to pick up a few more now. They are 1' square instead of 2', which might provide some additional flexibility. You might also get a pretty good deal because they sell them in larger quantities.

[Adam Cavaliere]

I had a bunch of cut offs from putting in some of that fake hardwood laminate flooring. I put them together and they definitely feel better to stand on. Only problem is they don't all interlock since they were cut offs. It makes a perfect rectangle though...

I am considering getting some of those interlocking squares (plastic). My only concern is how clickity clacky are they?

[John Grabowski]

I agree with those of you who are using the anti-fatigue mats...I use several of them throughout my workspace. I have two different kinds actually. I bought a couple of the ones from hartville tool online and they are very nice, but expensive. I also bought a pack from Harbor Freight when I was in there buying drill bits. They are the 2 sq foot interlocking ones. I think it was about 10$ for a 12 sq ft pack. I like these the best. When I am working at my lathe for an extended period of time, I actually double them up and I feel like a champ. They also hose off real nice and don't stick to anything.

John G