New to me bandsaw... :) Pic heavy

[Rick Fisher]

This is it. Bought sight unseen at an auction.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0907.jpg

It ............. heavy. According to the internet, about 620 lbs.
BTW. This is the best way to unload any heavy tool.. I didnt break a sweat. :)

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0905.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0914.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0911.jpg


It seems to be missing lower guides, yet it was running in the shop? We removed the table and fence for shipping. The table is a brute... Serious brute.

Anyone know about lower guides on this machine? It had a 1/2" blade on it, We had to disconnect the Dust collection and the electrictian had to disconnect it for us.

Looking at it, it needs new tires and guides. It has a dent which was caused by a broken blade in the door. Its also missing the foot pedal for the brake.


Its basically a Mini-Max SP-600 so I can order parts for it. The tag on the motor reads 1993. They said it was a 1987. I dont really care either way.

If anyone has any pictures or information on lower guides, I would love to hear it. This pic is of the writing on the back of the saw. Seems weird to me. I have a Delta 18" which has never broken a blade, regardless of tension. I wonder if they ran it without lower guides and had this problem??

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0913.jpg

[Chris Knudsen]

Looks Good Rick. I may have some info regarding guides, I will keep you posted on that. Have a great weekend polishing up your new toy.:)

[Joe Jensen]

Monster saw, makes my Laguna 16' look tiny

[Joe Meazle]

I'm glad you got it home Rick. Here is what Carter recomeds. Acording to what I have read the CP-20 was standard http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=146&cat_id=13

Acording to what I have read the CP-20 was standard. Is there a mounting where the lower guide is missing? If not you may need a mounting bracket also available from Carter.

Did you get the Mannual I fowarded to You?

Joe

[Rick Fisher]

lol. Joe, I looked everywhere for that manual. Every forum, my emial. Thanks for the reminder. ;)

Thanks for the link on the Guides. This saw is a real beast. I have a Delta 18" as well and have been comparing. Its unkind to Delta. :)

Every place that they could have used thin steel, they used heavy plate. I have it partially taken apart already and am shocked by the size, and grade of the bolts. The casting isnt real smooth but it all seems oversized :)

I want to take the wheels off. Took the bolt off. Looks like a snap ring in there. If anyone knows how to take this fella off, let me know.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0927.jpg

That orange isnt rust, its sawdust. I figure there is 20lbs of sawdust inside this thing. I doubt anyone ever maintained it or even cleaned it.

[Wilbur Pan]

I want to take the wheels off. Took the bolt off. Looks like a snap ring in there. If anyone knows how to take this fella off, let me know.

Getting a pair of snap ring pliers makes this task pretty easy. Sears lists them on their website (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945358000P?vName=Automotive&cName=Tools&Equipment&sName=Automotive%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a), and I bet any auto supply store will have them in their tool section.

You'll probably want a gear puller to help get the wheel off as well. Sears has these, too (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947368000P), and again you should be able to find these at an auto supply store as well.

[Mike Cutler]

Nice saw Rick. I don't suspect that you'll be looking for anything larger for awhile.;).

The Snap ring comes off with a set of Snap ring pliers. An auto parts store, or plumbing supply house will have them. Get the set with the interchangable extensions. To get that ring off you'll need the angled extensions.

As the ring closes it will get smaller in diameter and the clip has to move forward and up at an angle to clear the bearing face. Don't use a screwdriver for removal, unless it can't be avoided. It will just distort the ring and weaken it.

At work we call those "Jesus Clips", as in "Jesus, where'd that thing shoot off to".:eek:,:p

Nice saw and nice gloat. Thanks for sharing it with us

[Greg Cole]

Nice saw..... seeing the plumbers crack first thing on a Sunday morning almost got coffee out my nose too. :rolleyes:

Cheers.
Greg

[David Eisan]

Leave the snap ring where it is. It is holding the bearing in. Once you have the bolt off, the wheel should slide off the shaft. If it does not, tap lightly with a soft faced hammer on the hub around the shaft to "release" it from the shaft.

David.

[Joe Meazle]

Rick,

On my Centauro the snap ring just holds the bearing in the wheel if you just give the wheel a good yank it should come off. When you get the the bottom wheel off would you send me a pic of the break with some measurments. mine is missing and SCMI has them I just need to know if it will fit my old CI saw. I have the foot lever just no break and pad. Don't forget that on that bottom wheel that the drive belts will try to hold it on too if you don't take them off. It is pretty easy to forget this since they are almost hideen.

Joe

[Joe Meazle]

Looks like David is a faster typer than me.:)

[Rick Fisher]

No problem Joe. I will get you all the pictures of the brake that I can.

Adversly, if you have a pic of the bottom guides it would be good for me. I have nothing but an empty hole which I think they go into.

I assume SCM will have all the parts for the bottom guide.

Thanks for the link to the Carter Guides. My saw actually has a Carter guide on the upper but its trashed.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0923.jpg

It has become apparent to me that this saw was run without bottom guides for a long time. Anything that could be damaged from a broken blade is either missing or damaged.

I keep adding to the list of parts I will need.

[Joe Meazle]

That is a CP-20 or what is left of one. They have parts for the guides at Carter so it might be cheaper to rebuild the guide you have might not be worth the trouble/savings though.
The mounting post are also available from Carter. I think the right post a bolt and a guid should get you where you are trying to go.




Mine has Guideall 500 guides on it missing several parts thought. I wanted to change to the CP-20 so I bought this kit for mine.http://www.carterproducts.com/product.asp?product_id=74&cat_id=13

I talked with Carter on Fri and they said that the GA 500 uses a diffrent post than the CP-20 the kit with the post was only about $15 more than just the guides. So that is the way I went I may have parts left over. The new guied just doubled my investment in the saw:eek::D Here are some pics of my lower guide. Sorry about the winow in the background.http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/2008_0831boxes0014.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/2008_0831boxes0013.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Serious piece of machinery there, Rick. Congrats! It's going to be a great tool to have, both for the rehab and the subsequent use!

[Rick Fisher]

Perhaps Joe and I should keep this thread open for helping each other.


I am having no luck with either pulley. I have a 4" Gear puller but its too small. Im going to go get a 6" gear puller and will post pictures of the brake assembly when I finally get the wheels off.

I am adding up the parts for this machine. I figure about $1000.00

Guess I will be into it for $2000 when the smoke clears. lol.. If its close to as good as new, its still a good investment.

A decade from now, I wont remember what it cost but it will still be a fine saw.

[John Wibbenmeyer]

Mercy, now that is a serious bandsaw. Best of woodworking with it

[Joe Meazle]

Perhaps Joe and I should keep this thread open for helping each other.



We could do the international bandsaw rehab thread. Two bandsaws from Italy rehabbed by a guy in Canada and guy in the US. I must insist t that I not become a completion and discourage other creekers for wagering.;):D Do you want to keep this thread open or start a new thread?

For anyone following Rick and I have been keeping touch we bout got big Bandsaws in the past week and they came out of the same factory and are the same size. Mine is older and all cast iron. His is heavy welded steel and has more bells and whistles. Here is the Criagslist pic of mine. I got her for the exorbitant sum of $300. See any family resemblance with Rick’s saw?

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/centauroBS.jpg

[Rick Fisher]

Okay. I got the wheels off and have the pictures of the brake assembly.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0937.jpg

I spent a few hours cleaning the inside. Somehow old sawdust becomes this super hard and difficult stuff. Amazing really. Its just sawdust afterall.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0935.jpg

Its a pretty simple brake assembly.

I spent the day cleaning, running a grinder with a wire cup wheel and did a bit of painting.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0941.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0940.jpg

I need to pick a color for the "innards".

[Rick Fisher]

We could do the international bandsaw rehab thread. Two bandsaws from Italy rehabbed by a guy in Canada and guy in the US. I must insist t that I not become a completion and discourage other creekers for wagering.;):D Do you want to keep this thread open or start a new thread?

For anyone following Rick and I have been keeping touch we bout got big Bandsaws in the past week and they came out of the same factory and are the same size. Mine is older and all cast iron. His is heavy welded steel and has more bells and whistles. Here is the Criagslist pic of mine. I got her for the exorbitant sum of $300. See any family resemblance with Rick’s saw?

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/centauroBS.jpg



Joe. What size machine is that? It looks huge compared to mine. Is it an SC-900??

[Joe Meazle]

Thanks for the pic. Not quite like mine but it might work.
I will try to get a pic in the morning. Can I get a pci of the inside of your lower wheel?

Mine is a C600, same size as yours. When I bought it over the phone the lady seeling did not know what size it was. I used the dust chute to get scale I figured it was 600 or a 500 from the pic.

Have you priced tires from Minimax? SCMI has them for close to $50 each.

[Rick Fisher]

Thanks for the pic. Not quite like mine but it might work.
I will try to get a pic in the morning. Can I get a pci of the inside of your lower wheel?

Mine is a C600, same size as yours. When I bought it over the phone the lady seeling did not know what size it was. I used the dust chute to get scale I figured it was 600 or a 500 from the pic.

Have you priced tires from Minimax? SCMI has them for close to $50 each.


Tires at Carter are $28.00 each. They are rubber and you need a $20.00 tube of epoxy. The tires are barely on this machine, like they arent glued.

Funny, your saw looks much wider.

I have a serious dent, something hit the table. The bolt that rests on the frame, from the table, caused this dent. They had a chunk of oak under the bolt to level the table. the fact that the table or bolt didnt break is impressive.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0918.jpg

Any idea how to remove a dent like this? Its too thick to bend or hammer?

I will get a photo of the lower wheel.

[Rick Fisher]

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0943.jpg

Is this what you wanted to see?
The bottom wheel has built in pulleys. Its quite heavy. Probably adds inertia to the blade.

[Wilbur Pan]

Leave the snap ring where it is. It is holding the bearing in. Once you have the bolt off, the wheel should slide off the shaft. If it does not, tap lightly with a soft faced hammer on the hub around the shaft to "release" it from the shaft.

One thing to consider, since you're going through the trouble to tear down and rehab your bandsaw, is to replace the bearings while you have access to it. It makes a world of difference.

[David Freed]

Any idea how to remove a dent like this? Its too thick to bend or hammer?

A hydraulic jack of some kind would work if there is room. A porta-power would be best if you have access to one.

[Jim Becker]

Any idea how to remove a dent like this? Its too thick to bend or hammer?

Try some steel bars and clamps as a "sandwich"...

[Jesse Cloud]

We have this saw at school. We use the CP20 guides for the lower guide as suggested above. Personally, I think they are a pain to adjust, but they do the job.

The fence on this beast actually works and is easy adjustable.

Haven't had much luck with dust control. We have it hooked up to a monster DC system, but soon as you start cutting there will be a cloud of dust.

We tension to 16,000 psi.

[Chuck Wintle]

Rick,
Nice machine and it looks to be fundamentally in good shape aside from a few dents and missing guides. Could you take a picture of the bent part from a different angle? I am haveing a hard time visualizing just how it is bent. :D

[Chuck Wintle]

Okay. I got the wheels off and have the pictures of the brake assembly.

I need to pick a color for the "innards".
I vote for orange for the innards.

[Rick Fisher]

I actually bought orange already but with the green, its a bit too Christmas. I ended up painting the upper wheel Tremclad recreational white.

This is the dent with a straight edge on top.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0949.jpg

This is the underside, which is still straight.

this dent was caused by the bolt that is used to level the table. Something smashed down on the Cast table hard enough to do this damage. The table is fine. The bolt is about 1/2" and is fine as well.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0950.jpg

[Rick Fisher]

I was asked to post a picture of the rear adjustment for the bottom wheel and motor mount assembly.

The motor seems to have a 145T frame. A 5 1/2" x 5" bolt pattern.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0946.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0945.jpg

Joe.. This is the motor, Motori Bonora ... lol..

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/Motorplate.jpg

[Chuck Wintle]

Rick,
could you straighten it with some heavy clamps and a piece on top that had an arc in it?

[Rick Fisher]

I have 3 x bessey k-body clamps on it right now. A 2x6 on top and a 2x4 on bottom.

It went straight, just gonna see if it stays that way.

[Rick Fisher]

I have clamped it, left it, clamped it again and again, and it just settles down curved again. Like the metal wants to be that shape.

I have it over clamped now..

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0951.jpg

Trying to use the clamps to bend it the other way. I simply cant turn the handle on the clamp any farther. Im not worried about the welds breaking, they are pretty heavy beads.

Anyone have any tricks on bending this so it stays bent?

[Jim Becker]

I wonder if you need to put a huge amount of time into this dent since that point of contact with the table setup is adjustable. (without going back in the thread, I seem to remember that this was the point that the table tilt adjustment bolt rests on the superstructure. Yea, it will not look as good, but will it actually affect things? I only ask since you have to make a decision at some point on what to deal with and what to leave as is when doing a rehab.

That said, I wonder if applying a little heat to that area (not a lot...) might make it take the "set" you want.

[Joe Meazle]

Rick,
Sorry I have not gotten to do much with the bS today. I have had family over and have been grilling most of the day.


Thanks for the pic of the brake. I think mine is a little different. There are 2 drawings in the manual I sent you and one is just like yours and one is closer to mine but still different. Here is what I have: Sorry about the crummy pic.:o

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/2008_0901boxes0017.jpg

Here is my lower wheel. The recess for the brake is about 9 9/16" in diameter I wanted to see if it was like yours. The spoked and solid wheels may be set up different. I have see literature that list the options on both brands.

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/2008_0901boxes0018.jpg
On the issues of tires, I think the Centauro/ SCMI/MiniMax tires have a ridge that fit into a groove on the wheel. In The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird, there is a brief sidebar about these that say something to the effect that they are the easiest tires to change. So it may be worth the extra $$ over the carter generic. Has anyone changed this type of tire?

[Joe Meazle]

I forgot to say ai no help with the bending. Have you tried a block of wood and a hammer?

[Rick Fisher]

That is good advice. I emailed SCM already with a list of parts. I will see if they get back to me.

You have the disc style wheels. Surprisingly different features.

On those two oak boards you have which direct the dust into the chute, I am considering making new ones out of thick industrial plastic. The UHM? I cant remember.

The industrial plastics shop in town sells little pieces pretty cheap, cuttings from projects. I wonder if oak was normal? I thought they where an after thought but you have the same ones.

[Joe Meazle]

I think mine are MDF and look like they have been replaced.

SCM has a parts website. Once you are register (and they have to confirm your registration) you can shop by part # and see the part is available get the price and even see a picture before you order. I think this is a pretty darn cool part service. Here is the link the lady that helped me said the one trick is that all the bandsaw parts start with BS even though they do not appear in the manual that way.
http://www.scmgroup-usa.com/services/parts.html

[Phil Thien]

I need more pics of the bent steel to offer decent advice for straightening it. Right now it looks like you've gone too far in the opposite direction where the two-by is hitting the steel?

Nonetheless, where one clamp doesn't provide enough leverage, you can try using two or more clamps.

Oiling the threads on the clamps may allow you to crank them a little further, too.

[Joe Meazle]

OK! after looking at the wear pattern in the pic of my lower wheel i figured out I have a diffrent type of break. No parts needed just an adjustment. The adjustment bolt was on the back of the bandsaw there are two bolts one holds the post for the lower wheel the other adjust the brake. This would be so much easier with the right manual, but what fun would that be. Here is a pic of the back of the saw. Notice the cast iron motor housing.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/2008_0901boxes0015.jpg

[Rick Fisher]

Joe, what size is the table on your saw? It looks huge :)

[Rick Fisher]

I need more pics of the bent steel to offer decent advice for straightening it. Right now it looks like you've gone too far in the opposite direction where the two-by is hitting the steel?

Nonetheless, where one clamp doesn't provide enough leverage, you can try using two or more clamps.

Oiling the threads on the clamps may allow you to crank them a little further, too.

The problem is that when I release the clamp, the table springs back the other way. The solution I am trying is to overcompensate, bend it a bit the other way.

Its been clamped and unclamped all day. I looked at the origional pic and it is getting better. It doesnt need to be perfect but it was so bad that they had a shim under the bolt because it wouldnt reach.
I want the bolt to work on its own. I just dont want anything "patched up".

[Joe Meazle]

It's about 34"x23" with no miter slot. No biggie since I can't recall the last time I used a miter gauge on my Tannwitz. The SCMI has an odd (at least in the US) metric sized miter slot so I would have had to do a work around either way.

That table should be about the same size as yours. That sliding shop door in the background is pretty short that may be throwing you eyecrometer off;)

[Alan Schaffter]

The problem with repeated bending is that you are stress hardening the part. It will eventually become brittle and break. Can you can remove it so you can heat it to normalize and straighten it?

[Rick Fisher]

It would have to be cut out with a torch. Its welded on 3 sides. I think its fine now, I can live with 1/8".

[Joe Meazle]

quick update on my saw. I am trading emails with the guys handling Centauro for the US. They are trying to find me a manual. I aslo foud a guy on the Minimax yahoo group who has a C600 is doing pretty much the same thing.

I got a call from the motor shop this mornig and she checked out fine. he did note a slight bearing noise and said he could replace them but if it wer his he wouldn't worry about. He also set it up for 220 for me. Best part no charge.

So that brings me to the VFD I am considering: http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.198/.f?category=32

I in no way want to start a VFD debate but are there any glaring issues with this unit. I just need start and stop VS would be nice. I might add a limit switch to the break pedal so I can shut down with the foot pedal.

Thanks,
Joe

[Alan Schaffter]

I don't think you need all the whistles and bells typical of some VFD's, but you could use variable speed- I don't know enough about bandsaws and blade speed to advise. You could also get a braking resistor for the VFD (usually an option) which causes the VFD to apply reverse current to stop the motor at a user selectable rate. It could be activated by a remote switch mounted on your brake pedal. Does the saw have a blade break cutoff like some? That could be connected to the same circuit.

[Joe Meazle]

Thanks Alan,

The bandsaw does not have a switch on the footbreak. I happen to have an Allen-Bradley limit switch 802T I think I could add without too much trouble. It is only a single pole switch could that be used as an input on the VFD?

[Rick Fisher]

Joe..

This worked out pretty good for home made replacement parts. The plastic was only a few bucks.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010172.jpg

[Alan Schaffter]

Thanks Alan,

The bandsaw does not have a switch on the footbreak. I happen to have an Allen-Bradley limit switch 802T I think I could add without too much trouble. It is only a single pole switch could that be used as an input on the VFD?

The controls vary from VFD to VFD but most have both a touchpad and also connections for remote low voltage control. What you can't do is turn off the motor by disconnecting it from the VFD- harms the VFD. You either use the keypad or a remote Start /Stop switch wired (low voltage) to the VFD controller, and/or a switch that secures (220V AC) power to the VFD. Again, each VFD is different but wiring is usually fairly simple if you have the manual.

I put a VFD on my lathe and drill press. I use the VFD keypad with the lathe, but have a remote on/off toggle switch and speed pot on the drill press. Something else nice to have is a tach. The MKC unit I used (http://www.mkctools.com/tachulator.htm) for both is an optical unit that reads a light/dark pattern you attach to a pulley- it will read either RPM or can be calibrated to the machine and also read SFPM (surface feet per minute) which is nice to have on something like a bandsaw. My lathe VFD is set (software programmable via the keypad) for a small amount of braking - actually it is ramp up / ramp down time. With most VFD's heavy braking requires an optional heavy duty resistor.

Here is the front of my DP. The VFD is in back by the motor and is never touched unless I need to clear a fault. The original START/STOP buttons control power to the VFD. The little single pole toggle switch causes the motor to run, and the red knob controls the speed (in this case 999 RPM). Your limit switch should work fine. You will need to verify how the remote controls operate and should be wired. On some VFD's the stop is also the start (open and close the contacts) like my drill press, some might require separate momentary contact buttons/switches for start and stop.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/DP-7.JPG

Here is my lathe unit (88.4 Hz = 3004 RPM):

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/Lathe-6.JPG

[Joe Meazle]

Rick,
those look great. I looked at mine and they are MDF core with oak veneer. I have some corian scraps I think I will make mine from. The parts breakdown shows them to have woodgrain.

[Joe Meazle]

I talked to the guys at Factorymation about a VFD and is seems that the TECO FM50 seems like it would do most of what I want. I ordered to day choose the chap shipping and got a notification from ups that it will be here Friday.

Total with shipping was $192 I can add things later if I want but it souds like this can get me going.

[Rick Fisher]

There is something funny with this post. I cant see messages past 2 days ago.

I got these by going to Joe's details and picking "find all posts".

Very strange.

I really like the setup on that Drill press. That tachometer is a great add-on.

[Joe Meazle]

Quick update. The new guides got here today. I spent most of the evening puting them on. It was kinda like a puzzle with a couple of extra peices. New bands were ordered yesterday. I balanced the wheels as best I could yesterday. The VFD is supposed to be here in the morning so this weekend I will be messing with that. Here is my rough tally so far.
Bandsaw $300 Free shipping (Not bad consider it weighs 960# and traveld 350 miles.)
Guides $312
VFD $192
Belts $ 32 (cogged from the auto parts store)
Motor
check up $0 (there ould be a bearing replacment down the road. Anyone done this themselves?)
Bands ???

I think I am going to give my current tires a shot. I did resurface them. I have not noticed any bearing noise in the wheels so I am going to wait until I get her uderpower before I decied to change them. To be Fair to Rick His saw is going to be like new when he is done. I just want mine to run well.

Joe

[Rick Fisher]

This thread is really screwed up for me. For some reason, all the posts are out of order ... lol..

Anyhow. You can get Urethane tyres from that fella I mentioned in the other thread. I believe they are much easier to install. If you dont see it, send me a PM.

For me this is a project, like a woodworking project. (only much more expensive). Im 40 and want this saw to be my final saw.

[Jim Becker]

This thread is really screwed up for me. For some reason, all the posts are out of order ... lol..

Check in your UserCP that your thread display is set to linear and newest last.

Jim
SMC Moderator

[Rick Fisher]

Hey, that fixed the thread. Thanks very much.

I have been doing some checking on swapping bearings and it appears you need a bearing puller and a press to put the new ones back on.

Im not sure what those tools are worth.

[Robert MacKinnon]

Hi Rick,

Just noticed this thread and wished to congratulate you on your purchase. I own a Centauro 600, a very similar saw to yours. Joe Meazle was after a manual in one of the earlier posts. I believe I can find a PDF file in my archives of the one which I modified for my bandsaw. Since they are similar, it might serve his (and possibly your) purposes. I can also assist your restoration by providing any photos/measurements of my saw that will help you.

Let me know if any of this is of use to you.

[Rick Fisher]

Thanks Robert.

The doors from the bandsaw are finished. :)

The doors where trashed. Huge amount of damage due to errant bandsaw blades. I wish I had taken more pictures of how bad they where.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0919.jpg

This next photo shows how someone washed them with Acetone at one time. The finish was brutal, some of the label was actually washed away.


http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/IMG_0959.jpg

The doors arent perfect but they are very good. this is the same part that was trashed by broken blades.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010209.jpg

This is the finished product.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010206.jpg

I am not painting the frame. The paint is pretty good. Some chips but no real damage.

[Joe Meazle]

Looks great Rick. Did you get a new decal? Are you replacing the door handles? If so want to sell the old ones?

No pic form me for a while the camera went to the beach with LOML.

I did wire up the VFD and the motor tonight. That is pretty cool. they are not back in the saw yet it was just on my bench. The bare bones VFD I doesnt have an enclourse so I went to the home cetner and found a 6x6x4 pvc junction box that should work there will be lots of drilling for venting and wires. It jsut depends on how much College Football I have to watch on Sat. Rock Chalk Jayhawk!

[Rick Fisher]

Sorry about the handles Joe. Mine are in good shape. I am cleaning them up.. I think SCM has them?

Tell me about your VFD. Is setting it up someone really dumb with electrical could do.. cough.. :) .. we are talking really really dumb here.. :)

[Joe Meazle]

No problem I will most likley make some handles. All the parts are there the actual part you grab is all that is broken.

Regarding the VFD, it was very easy. Keep in mind I have not added any bells and whistles yet. I am just using the run/stop on the key pad. If you can wire a magnetic starter you can do the wireing I did tonight.
It has some soft start and breeaking programed in already. I am sure it can do all kinds of tricks I will never use. BTW I am not exactly an Edsion or Tesla myself.

What kind of paint did you decide to use?

Joe

[Rick Fisher]

I re-read my door post. I got lazy.. Its automotive paint, applied by a body shop.

My company gets steel (house) doors painted by a body shop in town for customers on a regular basis. I just dropped them off and said .. two more doors for ya..

The new SCMI logo was made by a sign shop. :o

It was a rough week and I felt I wasnt getting enough done. They did a great job. Good enough that the doors are in a spare bedroom. Safe from the shop.

:)

[Chuck Wintle]

Nice job on the SCMI logo. Its amazing how well they can recreate something like that. :D:D

[Bart Leetch]

"Any idea how to remove a dent like this? Its too thick to bend or hammer? "

Could you build it up with weld grind is smooth & paint it?

[Rick Fisher]

The dent is pretty much gone. Bessey/stanley clamps.. I just forced it the other way and left it that way for 72 hours. Its not perfect but within 1/8".

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010214.jpg

[Joe Meazle]

one step back on my end. My new belts did not mach up very well one of the pair is slightly longer and turns itself insde out at just about half speed. Any one have any ideas on finding matched sets?

[Joe Jensen]

one step back on my end. My new belts did not mach up very well one of the pair is slightly longer and turns itself insde out at just about half speed. Any one have any ideas on finding matched sets?

Auto parts stores, and Grainger will sell matched sets. Dual or triple belts are common on farm equipment and machinery...joe

[Rick Fisher]

Wow.. I didnt know I needed a matched set. Im not that far along but am sure I would have had the same issue.
Thanks for posting that.

I should post a pic of the top for Joe Meazle.

Joe Jensen suggested a wire wheel as he is now restoring a Euro machine as well.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010219.jpg

The wire wheel on a drill took about 45 minute to an hour. Then I wet sanded with WD-40 and coarse emery cloth for about 15 minutes. It seemed longer as I did it by hand and my arms are protesting today.


Its not shiny but its clean. I sprayed it with Bostik and havent rubbed it enough so there are some white blotches.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010217.jpg

It appears I have to build an insert for the table. I cant find anything from SCMI. If anyone knows of an insert I can buy in the right size, let me know.

[Joe Meazle]

Rick,
The top looks great.

Mine had a homemade oak insert. I thing about 1.75" thick I am plaing on making some inserts for mine. I am thinking I will make a 1.25" thick filler insert with lots fo clearnece for the blade (and various balde withs) and them I am going to make some ZCI's out of some Corian scraps I have.

[Rick Fisher]

That is a good idea Joe. I thought about making some out of that heavy duty plastic. Using screws with wide washers to hold it in from below.

Post a pic of the insert when your done.

I sprayed the underside of the table with Rubberized Undercoat (black). There was zero rust so this stuff will keep it that way.

I am finishing the edges of the table with lndustrial liquid plastic. Thought I would give it a try.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010221.jpg

[Joe Jensen]

Rick and Joe, my Laguna bandsaw has a similar opening. There a good chance the Laguna inserts would fit. The Laguna inserts are plastic and have holes to help with dust collection.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey, thanks Joe. I will call laguna tomorrow. If its just undersized, I can still make it work.

Thanks for the tip.

[Jim Becker]

On the inserts, also check with MiniMax...there may be an exact fit available. But if you make your own, construct them with some perforations for air flow to improve dust collection when you're not fully covering the insert with the workpiece, such as when resawing. Suggest you make them adjustable height with screws so you can zero in on level with the top on installation...the casting may not be perfect. The OEM inserts are height adjustable.

[Rick Fisher]

I screwed up.

The Centauro SP-600, which is basically the same as my saw, comes new with a 4.8hp motor. I opted to re-power so I measured the base and ordered a new 5hp Baldor motor... I also ordered a new mag switch and Sheave which would change the blade speed to about 4200 SFPM.

So I pick up the motor and realized, I measure the frame wrong. :(

I measured 5.5" x 7.5". The widest frame the base will hold is 6.5". Of course the frame is 7.5" wide. Sigh..

Also, the motor is really too high. I have to cut a bit of steel off the lip on the frame of the saw just to fit this motor in place.

So, has anyone ever made an adapter for the motor to bolt to, and then bolted the adapter to the saw?

This is goofy. :)

[Joe Meazle]

The plate adapter should be easy and cheap. My jointer has 2 fixed mounts on one side of the motor and two that are floating. By that I me there is two steel linkages shape like an elonggated "O". You could make some from a heavy a couple of heavy mending plates. No need for the slot just a hole in each end should do. One end bolted to the motor base and one bolted to the mounting plate. This was what I was going to do if I had to use a 184 frame motor. I hope that makes some sense.

[Rick Fisher]

Well, its helpfull to hear that this has been done :)

I need to mount something underneath the stock mounting plate due to the shortage of space above the motor. I could essentially pinch it together with bolts?

I chose a 5hp because in my area they are only $100 more than a 3hp. So I figured, in for a dollar, in for a dime.

Do you think 1/4" plate Aluminum would be okay? Or would you use steel?

Aluminum is pretty strong in 1/4" plate, especially when its bolted flat to steel. It would be much easier for me to make out of Aluminum.

[Joe Meazle]

This was not a modifition to the Jointer it came that way. To change phase on it I changed the motor and the starter (because I got a good deal on one that came out for a nonelectric conversion). That set up meant I could use just about any rigid frame.

My saw has a heavy cast iron mounting plate so I was not too worried about the homemade adapters. I figured that they would just keep the motor from floping around the CI would take most of the torque Like I said I was planing to use meanding plates from the home center. If you have the al around anyway give it a shot. I figured that my motor was trash since the saw had sat idle for years. I ws having trouble finding 56 frame motor sat 1725 rpm. I was just a bonus that I was able use from Itlay at least for a little while.

[Joe Meazle]

http://www.grizzly.com/images/manuals/g0609_m.pdf

Go to page 51 part 312. Mine is not a grizzly but that is like the part I am trying to explain.

[Christopher Fletcher]

One question I have is how the heck did you find this auction? I have been trying to find public, government, back repo's, etc and don't come up with much. It could be my area, but have you any suggestions???

[Rick Fisher]

I cant see how a mending plate will be strong enough? I shot a pic, to better describe the problem.

This is where I felt I may have a problem.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010223.jpg

This is the problem.

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/P1010224.jpg

My best buddy came with me to drop it off. He laughed pretty good when He saw it. It is kinda funny. :D

Do you think 2 mending strips would fix this?

I pictured 1/4" plate with holes drilled in it.

[Rick Fisher]

One question I have is how the heck did you find this auction? I have been trying to find public, government, back repo's, etc and don't come up with much. It could be my area, but have you any suggestions???

Well. A machine was listed on Exfactory. I sent Exfactory a couple of emails and they didnt reply. This went on for a few days. The ad on Exfactory said it was in my area so I googled " Griggio PF-330" Which was the jointer I wanted.

This led me to an online PDF for an auction. I bid on the jointer and this Bandsaw.

I bid $2500 for the Jointer and didnt get it. :rolleyes:

I ended up with the bandsaw.

There is a site called Bidspotter.com which has many of the auctions coming up. To bid online, you need to be registered.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey Chris.

There is an auction in Sacramento on the 23th of September. Its a cabinet shop called. Cal North Cabinets.

http://www.bidspotter.com/forms/event.php?event=6004

They will post a list of the items a day before on Bidspotter. You can bid online if you wish.

Here is a PDF of what they are auctioning off. They have a Quad head wide belt sander.. :eek:

http://www.tauberaronsinc.com/PDF/CAL%20NORTH%20brochure.pdf

The pictures will be of the big ticket items. This auction also has a Powermatic 68 Table saw. Maggi Feeders, Castle boring machine, Invicta 14" table saw, Radial Arm saws, Meber bandsaw, (a 48" Rodgers band saw!!!). Clamp tables, 2 portable dust collectors...

A whole bunch of goodies.

I got 94 Destaco clamps at this other auction for $50.00. If you go, take a cordless drill :(

[Joe Meazle]

I should have been more descriptive. I was thinking about cutting one of the 12" mening plates in half to give me two adapters one for the front mountin hole one for the rear. The mending plate I thinking of is about 3/16" thick steel approx 1"x 12". Put I don't have any scrap 1/4" AL plate. If you got it give it a shot it is only few min. at the drill press and grinder.

[Rick Fisher]

Oh.. I get it. That would likely work. That makes sense.

I have access to some 1/4" aluminum plate. I am struggling for height as well so 1/4" will actually matter.

[Christopher Fletcher]

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/excited002.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org)............Thanks Rick!

[Joe Meazle]

I got some new bands today and made my first saw dust. I made some light cuts and then resawed some extra hard red oak about 8" wide. She didn't even seem to notice. So far I am pleased. I may have some more adjustment and modifications to make but for now she is functional. I am running on just a single belt until and get a matched set. My hamfisted nondynamic balancing seemed to work ok. The nickle nest worked but Tommy did nod his head at me. I only ordered a couple of low cost bands because my only hint about length was what was written on the door. I will order some more substancial bands to test the resawing capability.

The VFD is awsome on the bandsaw. soft start and breaking are automatic. I can use a very low spead to make sure the band is tracking and gradualy raise the speed. I can also see using the VS for diffrent types of resawing.

I am alittle bummed mine has the old style tires without the tounge and groove so I might put off the tire change for a little while. There willbe some modifications to the DC hood forthcoming.

Well I gots me a bandsaw with a 22+" throat, 17+" resaw and varriable speed weighing in at just under 1000 lbs for less than 1K. She ain't much to look at but maybe I'll do a little gloating just the same.:D;):rolleyes:

Now I have to get some woodworking done. The bookcases I am making won't even require the use of the bandsaw.:rolleyes:

Joe

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Congrats on the gloat Joe! That much bandsaw for under $1K...a steal!

Looks...who cares. It cuts and cuts well. Congrats!

[Joe Meazle]

Thanks Ken I think $1 a pound is not too bad.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

It was a steal! Congrats! I hope my wife doesn't see this post. I paid nearly $3 a pound.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey congrats Joe. Glad to hear its up and running.

I am on the other hand waiting. I ordered new tires from SG tool and Guides from Carter. Neither have arrived yet. I imagine they are held up at the border.

I got the sheave for the motor the other day. ... waiting .. lol..


Joe. I was interested to hear that your saw has a 17" resaw capacity? Mine has only 13". :(

[Joe Meazle]

Yep, I was kinda surprised to get that much out of her. I can actually get over 18" but it puts the guides in a awkward place. I think mega resaw is kinda overrated these days. 13" should be plenty. It seems to be the spec that the saw manufactures are trying to one up each other over and buyers are fixating on. If you are doing bookmatching you can get a 26" panel out of that and that is pretty darn wide. I doubt I use much more than 12" on mine. IMHO HP is getting out of hand on bandsaws too.

I am sorry about the delay are your big rubber bands and you guides. All of the Canadian supplier I have use seem to keep an office of some kind in the US which I guess help with delays on our end. BTW all of the Canadian stuff I have used has been top notch: Lee Valley, Jessem, and Excalibur... I even got use Canadian made General Radial Arm saw, Bandsaws (14" & 20"), drill press, HC mortiser, 12" Jointer and 20" Planer at a furniture design class I took. All great stuff

[Bart Leetch]

" I even got use Canadian made General Radial Arm saw, Bandsaws (14" & 20"), drill press, HC mortiser, 12" Jointer and 20" Planer at a furniture design class I took. All great stuff "

Sniff sniff something smells spoiled rotten around here... Oh hi Joe Meazle is that you????:eek::):D

[Joe Meazle]

I guess I should have mentioned that I had to pay to use those machines. Bart, I am a bottom feeder:D. Everything is my shop is used rebuilt and modified and sometimes even homemade.

Spoiled is when this guy drops by to show you how to use the bandsaw.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/IMG_4439.jpg

And even has a seat on your class project.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s107/meazlejr/Maloof056.jpg

Now that is spoiled. :D

[Rick Fisher]

My guides showed up from Carter Products today :)

I was going to order all the parts from SCMI. I am down to a foot pedal and a knob. They still havent gotten back to me. :confused:

The Americans told me to deal this the Canadians. So I contacted the Canadians. Then they got someone else to get hold of me. So I emailed and said what I needed.

Then after a couple of days, nothing...

So I emailed again (nicely) and asked how it was coming with the parts.

So they said I needed to give them the parts numbers from my manual. So I explained that I dont have a manual.
Then I got the parts numbers from SCMI USA and sent them to SCM Canada.

Then after a couple of days, nothing...

In that time, the list shrunk because I found parts aftermarket. (Guides, tires etc.)

So here I sit..

I sent a complaint to the guy in Toronto yesterday but havent heard back, so I sent another (not mean, just a complaint) to the SCMI sales rep in Vancouver toady.

I think I will ask "pretty please" if SCM USA will sell me the parts. They have the parts in stock afterall. Imagine if I where making a living with these tools :eek:

[Joe Meazle]

Any luck yet Rick? If you need me to order and reship something to get it across the border let me know.

[Rick Fisher]

Hey, thanks Joe.

I emailed the operations manager from SCMI USA on Monday and pleaded with her to sell me a couple of parts. I explained my frustration.

I didnt get a response from her, but got an email from someone else in Canada today saying they where going to get me my parts and would be back to me soon.

I dont see myself buying any new SCMI tools in Canada. When you pay big $$, you expect decent service, even in the little things. Customer service is an audition for the next good sale afterall.

I now have the Magnetic Starter, Motor, Guides, and am only missing the parts from SCMI and the tires, then I am ready to fully re-assemble.