Flip Top - Revisited

[glenn bradley]

Discussions about flip top cabinets resurface now and then. I had decided to change from four locking swivel casters to two swivel and two fixed. As long as I had the machines off the table I thought I would get some better shots of the cabinet itself. Hope this helps anyone planning or building.

He looks kinda flimsy unloaded but it is quite sturdy:

[/URL]95848

I had to modify the caster stand-offs to accept the new caster layout but they are still hidden by the skirt:

(http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23427&d=1220133092)95849

Here's the eye-bolt table-top lock idea I stole from some brilliant person whom I can't recall (I just know it wasn't me):

95850

Another shot of the latch/lock:

(http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23429&d=1220133092)95851

A view of the top-sandwich. I made mine thicker than most recommended plans I saw. This allows one side of the the top to be removable so I can change t-nut locations or add through bolts:

[URL="http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23431&d=1220133092"]95853

I have flipped this thing hundreds of times and with a little thought about placement, the various tools I have used it for flip without much effort at all. It currently holds my 80lb planer and a 60lb sander.

OK, I'm on a roll out there so, it's back to the shop!

[steve reeves]

Obviously the thing is working but for the life of me I can't see what keeps it from falling apart once you take the clamps loose and it has a load on it....

[glenn bradley]

I feel the same way. It looks like it should just collapse. The caster cleats provide about 2" of "cleat" support at the dado joint of the bottom panel. Along with the skirt strips this seems to work. I took that part straight from a Shopnotes article.

I added the pivot blocks and thickened the core of the top to provide better support of the 1" oak dowel I substituted for the conduit or pipe I see in many designs. I assume this helps a bit.

[Jim Heffner]

I feel the same way. It looks like it should just collapse. The caster cleats provide about 2" of "cleat" support at the dado joint of the bottom panel. Along with the skirt strips this seems to work. I took that part straight from a Shopnotes article.

I added the pivot blocks and thickened the core of the top to provide better support of the 1" oak dowel I substituted for the conduit or pipe I see in many designs. I assume this helps a bit.

Glenn, I made that same flip top tool stand a couple of years back and I like it too! I used a round steel rod about 5/8" in diameter all the way thru
the cabinet for the pivot point works great. All I did was weld a large diameter washer on one end, slid it into place thru the cabinet to the other side, had it protrude out about a 1&1/4" installed another washer
at that end and drilled a hole the remaining part and installed a hitchpin
I had in the shop to prevent it from slipping back, trimmed off the excess end and I was done! If I ever need to change something out I can remove the hitchpin, slide out the rod and make repairs or whatever and re-install same.

[glenn bradley]

That rod idea sounds slick!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Nice - I like it!
I have two tools that I use seldom, but when I need them, I need them.
My benchtop drill press ans my 12" bandsaw.
Both are space hogs.
Actualy, let me rephrase that. I have 4 tools that are problematic space hogs.
In addition to the above two, I also have the 734 planer and an 8/12" SCMS.
No, wait, I forgot about the... :D

bookmark: fliptop