Sometimes woodworking is a big fat bummer

[Michael Sobik]

I'm trying to finish up this chest or drawers for my son who's clothes are literally cascading out of his closet. I finally put the first bit of color on it yesterday, only to discover one of the side panels has cracked :mad:.

I thought I did everything right with this piece, but obviously I did something wrong. It's made of maple, the grain between the top and sides is oriented the same way, and the case is joined with Dominos.

The AC is on in the shop and it looks like the drop in humidity caused the side to shrink, but the top either hasn't shrunk to match or it's shrinking at a different rate.

Is there anything I can do to repair the crack? Any ideas on what I can do differently next time? It's really a bummer to be so close to finishing this and discovering this! :(

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=95609&stc=1&d=1219767317

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=95610&stc=1&d=1219767317

[alex grams]

I am not very experienced in things of this nature, but how final is the piece? Can you take the top off and access the crack? A simple odd fix may be to put a pocket hole on the inside so that the screw would bridge across the gap and pull it together some, then filling the remaining gap with some wood filler.

I wouldn't rely on this fixing the crack, but it would give some support to stop the crack from spreading any more.

Kind of an odd fix, but like I said, not a whole lot of experience in this.

Nice piece by the way, I can appreciate your frustration.

[Ben Rafael]

I've had maple with that grain pattern at your crack. It has cracked on me too.
IMO, it appears that the crack area is much harder than the wood surrounding it. Drastically Different densities expand and contract at different rates, you get crack.
Since your crack is on the back of the piece I would just fill it and be done with it.

[Todd Bin]

what finish did you use? If it is repairable, then I would sand back the area and use CA glue (super glue) to fill in and around the crack. then sand and touch up the finish. But what concerns me is why did it crack in the first place?

[Richard Magbanua]

Michael,
Being pretty new to ww I aspire to work such as yours. It looks very nice. As far as the cause of the crack, my attention is drawn to the moulding of the top. I see you've used nails which would allow for movement. Did you glue this to the top as well? When attaching moulding to the end grain of a top such as this the advice is usually to glue the first few inches at the front of the case and use just brads for the rest or get fancier and use a sliding dovetail cleat inside the moulding. Other than a defect in the wood that's all I can think of.

Good luck and nice job!

[Pete Bradley]

Could be the pieces started at different moisture contents, could just be a natural stress point in the wood. Sorry if this is obvious, but you didn't glue the moulding to the side did you?

Pete

[Michael Sobik]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, everyone. The molding is actually glued and nailed to a molding frame that sits on top of the case. It's floats above the case and joins the case to the top (it has two "tops" the top of the case and the actual top that you see).

I'm inclined to agree with Ben at this point. The grain patterns are so different probably causing different contraction patterns. I thought about not using that piece, but I liked the way it looked. Oh well, lesson learned.

The only thing to do at this point is patch it up and hope it doesn't get any larger. I can't get at it from the backside, and all the pieces are permanently attached now.

[John Thompson]

Having the knot at the end of the stock with open end grain probably should have been avoided. Maple grain can be squirrelly and around a knot gets very squirrelly. If the wood was not properly dried.. open end grain where moisture will escape quicker than any other surface and the internal stress released from the area around the knot probably all combined to do you in.

Being for a son and how they treat furniture... I would fill at this point and then try to hide with finish as best as possible. If the chest is adjacent a wall on that side or something beside it probably nobody will notice and more-so with a son and his friends that go in the room. Been there and done that.:)

Sarge..

[Lee Schierer]

Your photos don't show what is inside the dresser that could be preventing the wood from moving as it needs to to accomodate moisture changes. If there is a screw, drawer runner, frame or corner brace inside that holds on the top, then that is possibly what caused your crack. I would attempt to glue it once I corrected the cause. You can work glue into the crack with dental floss and clamp it. The pocket screw on the inside would also help out the glue and prevent the crack from gowing.

I had a similar problem on a dresser I made out of hickory. I glued the drawer slide supports tot he side panels 90 degrees tothe grain of the panel. Once the heat dired out the air in the house, the side panels both cracked. It sounded like a rifle shot when it cracked one evening while we were watching a show. I was able to repair it by cutting the cross pieces free and gluing the panel. It has not broken since.

[Kevin Davis]

I've used this product with some success for cracks. It might work for you.


Chair Doctor™ Glues


http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/adhesives/05k9901s1.jpg

Chair Doctor™ glue does exactly what the name implies; it fixes chairs. If a chair has a loose rung, an injection of Chair Doctor glue will first swell the rung and then bond it in position. The secret is the low viscosity. It will soak into the end grain of wood, swell the wood and then freeze the wood in the swollen state as it cures. A film of dry glue lines the wood cells, preventing contraction. The glue can penetrate the narrowest of cracks. If you happen to leave any excess or spillage, it can be removed with a damp cloth. Any missed on a surface will dry clear.
Chair Doctor comes in a 2 fl oz bottle with a slim applicator tip that lets you place the glue accurately. Chair Doctor Pro includes 4 fl oz of glue, 1 syringe, and 3 sizes of blunt-tip needles. Usually, you let Chair Doctor glue seep into a loose joint, but for many loose joints you can actually slip our finest needle alongside the tenon to the base of the socket, then inject it full of glue. For very difficult repairs, you can drill a tiny hole (from below or behind) and inject glue into a joint that way. With a syringe, it is very easy to do a large number of joints quickly and neatly. Even better, everything cleans with just water so the needles and syringe are reusable indefinitely.
For regular cabinetmaking, our 2002 GF glue is definitely the best choice,
but for fixing loose joints (where you cannot or do not want to take everything apart), Chair Doctor glue is ideal.
Made in Canada.




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[jason lambert]

Nice piece, and nice job. Is the top attached solid ly, glued on it should be floating. using table clips I usally do them liek this

Look at the 3rd pic down
http://www.forcemachinery.com/festoolmods.htm

Other than that it loos good I would guess it is the knot causing issues. just fill it and move on done right since it is right under the lip you would be the only one htat notices it.

[Michael Sobik]

The case is free essentially free floating. The top attaches to the molding frame. It's only glued in the front, and is held down with slotted screw holes. The drawer frames sit in dadoes in the case sides and are only glued on the front 1" or so. The more I look at it, the more I'm inclinded to believe it's the stupid knot. I'm really kicking myself now for using it, I remember noticing how dense and hard it was when I was dimensioning the lumber. I just thought it looked nice :(

[David DeCristoforo]

Let me take a bit different approach here (unusual for me I know...). All of the replies address possible causes and fixes for "the crack". So there is no need to expound further on that subject. "Next time" you will have more experience and will most likely be able to avoid this particular pitfall. What I would like to suggest at this point is that you forget about the crack. It's there. You still have a beautiful piece that you made for your son. He has a beautiful dresser that his dad made for him. He will probably will this dresser to his son and after that it will go to your great grandson. I'll bet a dollar to a donut that none of them will enjoy owning this dresser less because of that crack.

[Gary Benson]

Yes and yes to David's point. That crack is no worse than any other grain pattern or color variation in the rest of the piece. Overall, great job, I really like it.
Gary

[Eric Larsen]

Write a little note for your great grandchildren on the inside of the case, near the crack. Then don't tell anyone you wrote it. Something like, "Damn, came *this* close to perfect."

I did the same thing with the tile under the fridge that cracked. "Mea Culpa. Good thing it took moving the fridge to find this note."

[Andrew Hughes]

How about a bow tie inlay to keep the crack from getting bigger?Embrace the small split instead of try to hide it.

[John Thompson]

I was going to suggest an inlay also, Andrew. But after seeing the position of the knot (off center) I didn't suggest it as it may give it an off-balance look. I really don't see the crack and the fix and very bad at all. The piece wasn't destined for a museum or a paying client.

Trust me.. a son will probably never notice the crack but if he takes a wife latter and the piece moves to their place "she" will. The solution there is just to tell her that is my dad's signature on all furniture. :cool:

Sarge.... :D

[Peter Quinn]

Moisture, grain pattern, movement, who cares. Wood is fickle at least, and maple isn't the most stable wood I can think of. Your piece is beautiful, crack or no crack. I like CA glue (thick version) or a bit of epoxy if you want a level surface to finish. I'm with Mr. D on this one, except I say don't forget the crack, enjoy it. You wanted that beautiful, natural shimmering grain change and you got it, and all that comes with it. If you stick to the safe choices in wood selection your work may approach boring.

Think of it like a spouse whose very flaws have become qualities over time. Or like the birth mark on Marilynn Monroe!

[Bill Wyko]

Maby some sawdust mixed with the finish you used, then a drop or 2 of CA glue.

[Greg Cole]

I was going to suggest an inlay also, Andrew. But after seeing the position of the knot (off center) I didn't suggest it as it may give it an off-balance look. Sarge.... :D

+1 to that. I almost said it earlier today, but had the same sentiment.
I agree with David, Sarge, Peter et al just let it be......

Nice looking project BTW Micheal.

Cheers.
Greg

[Neal Daughtry]

Michael, That is a beautiful dresser, I doubt anyone will notice that crack but you. To me it adds character. Did you get plans for that from the internet? I'd like to make one for my son.

[Bruce Page]

The crack it the result of the squirrely grain, not poor craftsmanship.
Like the others, I’d let it be. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Bob Feeser]

My first suspicion is that a pocket screw or some type of metal fastener was applied from the inside and caused the crack. Nevertheless, you explained that it was not the problem.

The next suspicion that I have is that end grains, or should I say ends of boards often get splits or cracks. We think that we are cutting in far enough to eliminate the cracked section, but on a micro level the separation goes beyond what is immediately apparent to the naked eye. With a microscopic crack existing in the wood ahead of time, it is only a matter of time before it magnifies. This leads me to believe that you need to nip this crack in the bud. :)

The problem is two fold, as I am sure you and everyone else is already aware. One is to stop the crack in its tracks, and the other to do so in a way that is cosmetically pleasing. I kind of like that crack repair glue posted in this thread. That would swell and attach at the same time. That may be your only hope of solving both problems.

Just filling it in will leave you with a cosmetic crack still, and I don't think do much to keep it together over time, although a urethane glue may do just that, but that is hard to deal with in a piece that is finished as far along as this one.
I guess I am out of ideas, and sort of rambling. Hope it helps a little.

[Anthony Anderson]

Michael, that is a fine piece of furniture. I don't know if this has been mentioned, as I have not read the entire list of posts, but I like the look of the crack/split. Believe it or not, this is one of those times that give it natural character. This is wood, nature's beauty shining through, don't cover it up, or "fix" it. As long as the piece is functional as intended, drawers open and close properly, I would include it in the piece. I really like the dimensions of the chest of drawers. Did you find this project as a plan somewhere, or did you come up with the plan on your own. What are the dimensions? Thanks, and great work. Bill

[Jose Kilpatrick]

When I saw your title, I Was all ready to identify with you, then I saw the problem... You should see some of my work. A crack like that would have been eluded to as character in my work. The last project I made was an entertainment center to hold a new bigscreen plasma and there was not a square corner on the whole thing. Viewing it from a distance, it looks fine, but at close inspection, you would probably tell me to buy some new squares.
Your work is awesome.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hope it doesnt keep splitting.Yikes.Maybe just a little one?

[John Keeton]

This thread should be entitled as a gloat. That is a fine piece of furniture, well executed, and good craftsmanship. As others have concluded, the crack is related to the grain at that particular location. In hindsight, the "safe" thing would have been to not use that piece, but as you said, you like the grain pattern. Woodworkers take that same calculated risk all the time, and sometimes the result is a crack. No risk - no unusual work. If every piece was made the safe way, we would all use straight grain wood, of a completely stable nature - pretty boring.

Nice piece, good work, insignificant crack. That is about as good as it gets in woodworking. I would be proud of this one!

[Brian Penning]

I dunno...I can see myself taking that bet. These days it appears that kids would say "Jeez Dad, how come you gave me a dresser with a big honkin' crack in it?" :rolleyes: ;)



Let me take a bit different approach here (unusual for me I know...). All of the replies address possible causes and fixes for "the crack". So there is no need to expound further on that subject. "Next time" you will have more experience and will most likely be able to avoid this particular pitfall. What I would like to suggest at this point is that you forget about the crack. It's there. You still have a beautiful piece that you made for your son. He has a beautiful dresser that his dad made for him. He will probably will this dresser to his son and after that it will go to your great grandson. I'll bet a dollar to a donut that none of them will enjoy owning this dresser less because of that crack.

[Jacob Reverb]

Let me take a bit different approach here (unusual for me I know...). All of the replies address possible causes and fixes for "the crack". So there is no need to expound further on that subject. "Next time" you will have more experience and will most likely be able to avoid this particular pitfall. What I would like to suggest at this point is that you forget about the crack. It's there. You still have a beautiful piece that you made for your son. He has a beautiful dresser that his dad made for him. He will probably will this dresser to his son and after that it will go to your great grandson. I'll bet a dollar to a donut that none of them will enjoy owning this dresser less because of that crack.

+1

I'm not sure I would even worry about it. Put on the hardware and down the road you go. Nice job, by the way.

[Michael Sobik]

Wow, I had no idea folks would enjoy this one so much. I really appreciate the compliments. I'll post up some more pictures after we get it moved in. For some reason, moving the furniture into the house and setting it up with my wife is my favorite part.

I still have to glaze it, so I think I'll just try and work a little CA in there, glaze over top of it, and call it done.

I can't take credit for the design, it's a copy of a Townsend chest:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Gallery/GalleryImage.aspx?id=4470

Saw pictures and the drawing in this book:

http://www.amazon.com/American-Furniture-18th-Century-Technique/dp/1561581046/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1219864955&sr=8-1

Scanned in the picture, scaled it, and took all the dimensions from it. I drew it up in Solidworks, but I wish I had used SketchUp so I could share the plans.

I told my wife, "I think I'll have it done in a few weeks, maybe a month". Well I did finish it in a few weeks. 52 weeks actually. Not all of that was woodworking of course. We had a baby, and...actually that's it, just the baby.

[Kevin Burandt]

I went by Mike's house and saw the dresser. Wow it looks great! He did everything possible to account for wood movement and the craftsmanship (hand cut dovetails) is fantastic. Congrats on the baby and the dresser!

Kevin