homemade sanding sticks...(with pics)

[Walt Caza]

Good Day to the Creek,
Just a quickie about a homemade tool that costs little and works great.
I make two different thicknesses of these sanding sticks out of scraps.
Gee, I wonder where I can get some scrap wood strips?!?

The thin sticks are nice and flexible, for certain applications.
The thick sticks are rigid for other applications.
Just contact cement the strips and sandpaper sheet.
*That's my Dad's Dad's old screwdriver-a legacy in my shop!*
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I make these sanding sticks two different ways.
Just the faces with abrasive, and trim the sandpaper tight along the sides.
These function like an auger file, cutting into one side of a corner, but not the other.

The other type I glue the face plus two sides, and tightly wrap the sandpaper
around the corners, and trim them along the non-abrasive face.
These can sand both sides into a corner, and shine in tight spaces,
such as mortise ends.
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I also use these sanding sticks to put a slight chamfer on the entry side
of mortises. This helps prevent splintering, when you keep poking tenons
in and out with a series of trial test fits.
Gotta remember to not chamfer the visible side of through mortises!
(DAMHIKT!)
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I just wanted to share a simple shop-made tool that serves an important
function in my shop.
I knew if I posted this in the Morris Chair group thread, it would get buried.
Plus this way, it might turn up on it's own if someone did a search...
Thanks for looking,
Walt

[Harry Niemann]

Why don't you just buy sandpaper fingernail files? 1/2" wide 6: long, double sided.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks for the post. I like the tip. In fact, I've just discovered sanding sticks myself. Except I use the adhesive rolls (I think they're Stickit from 3M). Less mess but probably a tad more costly than your solution.

[Walt Caza]

Well Harry,
I have been working tough white oak mostly,
and I am pretty sure they don't sell emery boards in 80 grit!
Too flexible to clean up mortises I'm afraid...
but thanks for the suggestion. Did you miss the part about the rigid version?

I don't know how all the work of 40 mortises and 40 hand-tuned tenons
could possibly get done with a fingernail emery board?
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(were you just being sarcastic?)

Thanks Shawn, but if you knew of these first, I wish you would have told me!
I wish I was using these years ago...
I will look for the adhesive rolls, I have not noticed them.
Thanks for your kind words by pm Shawn.
Have a great day,
Walt

[Greg Cole]

Good tip to share Walt.
I've found a spray can of 3M #77 works great for making sanding implements.... blocks, round pieces, 1/2 rounds and other more custom profiles.

Greg

[steve reeves]

for fine stock removal on hardwoods I use metal working files.. they make them with smooth edges if you only need to work one side of a corner. But forget using them on softwoods... they load up instantly.

The sanding stick idea has been around for ages, but that takes nothing away from you coming up with it on your own. It mearly shows that you're a "problem solver". Much to be said for that.

As far as the sticks go, I also glue the paper on... nice thing about making your own is that if you need to follow a contour you can make it as flexible or as stiff as you like.

I also was unaware of the self stick strips being available... I sure could use some of that about 3" wide... if anyone has a lead on where that can be bought I'd appreciate it.

[Walt Caza]

Thanks for responses,
Greg, spray glue sounds waaay handier for those ---thanks!
Good tip on rounds and other profiles too...
now I am really getting ideas.

Ya Steve, I often say there is nothing new under the sun.
Those may not be new, but they are new to me!
And I have been around the shop a good while...

I wonder what else you woodworkers are keeping from me?!?
Bandits!!!

I also would like to know where you get the self-adhesive sandpaper?
Is that an auto body kinda supply? I never shop that aisle...
be well,
Walt

ps see that, I offered a tip to try to help others, and I end up getting more back!
Long live Sawmill Creek

[Greg Cole]

I wonder what else you woodworkers are keeping from me?!?

I've been on a mission to boot any & all sanding to the curb.... some sanding will always be needed during some finishing schedules unfortunately.
Try using old bandsaw blades (or start with a radiused scraper and work it to your desired profile) to make scrapers out of in place of profiled sanding implements. It takes a little time with some files to get the profile "just so", but the steel from any BS blade will hold up as a scraper for a good loooooong while versus some aluminum oxide glued to some paper.
Ya can even take this another step and add handles to the scrapers.
Once you stop scuffing your surfaces and start scraping them, you will see the difference in the finished products. Not too mention scraping takes way less time in general versus sanding & sanding and sanding some more.

Greg

[Prashun Patel]

Just froogle or check amazon or ebay for "self-stick sandpaper" or "stickit" or "self adhesive sandpaper". A million places sell the stuff.

It usually comes in 4" wide x 10yd long rolls. Super handy for making custom sanding blocks (or sticks!!!), and adding grip to miter fences.

[Jim Finn]

I have been glueing sand paper to tounge depressors for years. Way back when I was making a lot of model airplanes. I just use a thin film of elmer's white glue to secure the paper to the wood.

[Tony Ward]

I've used Velcros (hook n loop) papers for years.

Four grades of paper can be used simultaneously, e.g. both sides and both ends of one stick.

The stick can be timber, plastic or steel rulers, of any length or width. It's not rocket science!

[James White]

I've been on a mission to boot any & all sanding to the curb.... some sanding will always be needed during some finishing schedules unfortunately.
Try using old bandsaw blades (or start with a radiused scraper and work it to your desired profile) to make scrapers out of in place of profiled sanding implements. It takes a little time with some files to get the profile "just so", but the steel from any BS blade will hold up as a scraper for a good loooooong while versus some aluminum oxide glued to some paper.
Ya can even take this another step and add handles to the scrapers.
Once you stop scuffing your surfaces and start scraping them, you will see the difference in the finished products. Not too mention scraping takes way less time in general versus sanding & sanding and sanding some more.

Greg

Greg,

Could you elaborate on this a little. I am having a hard time imagining how you could use a scraper inside a mortise.

James

[Greg Cole]

Greg,Could you elaborate on this a little. I am having a hard time imagining how you could use a scraper inside a mortise. James
I was opening the discussion a little farther here in regards to finishing-smoothing profiles etc, not just insides of mortises. Walt was prying minds for other info.... ;)
For insides of mortises I find a paring chisel to be the bees knees, or a shoulder plane to fit the tenon to the mortise.

Cheers.
G

[James White]

Thank you Greg. I need to try and keep up with the conversation a little better. although, I do have the excuse of being tired. I have been getting drag around by a drum sander for the last two days. Boy am I glad that part is over. Or at least until the first floor gets done.

James

[Mike Cutler]

What a simple and nice idea Walt.
I've seen sanding sticks for sale in one form or another, but they were always too flexible for my needs. I never thought about making them.
Hmmm,,,,,,, I've got a can of Scotch 77 in the basement.............

Thanks for the tip.

Mike