PDA

View Full Version : Grinder or Work Sharp



Glenn Howard
08-25-2008, 9:25 PM
I've been trying to decide between picking up a bench grinder or a Work Sharp 3000. Up until this point, I've been getting by with my grinding and sharpening needs by using either my Dremmel, my angle grinder, or my air grinder (each coupled with a good bench vise). The Dremmel kit that I have came with a lawnmower blade sharpener that believe it or not, actually does the trick.

Since one of these three tools can usually handle most of my current grinding and sharpening needs, the missing piece is the ability to sharpen chisels and other woodworking tools. From what I've read, the Work Sharp 3000 gets glowing reviews and seems to be fairly idiot proof when it comes to sharpening chisels.

For my situation, would the Work Sharp round out my sharpening needs, or is a shop just not a shop without a bench grinder?:confused:

Mike Goetzke
08-25-2008, 10:42 PM
I recently purchased a WS3000. It is great for chisels and short planer blades. I tried to use it to contour a lathe gouge I had and didn't have success. If you are just using it for flat chisels the WS is perfect, but, if you have lathe gouges/skews something like a Wolverine/bench grinder is needed too.

Mike

Rick Levine
08-25-2008, 10:46 PM
I agree with Mike, I have both. The WorkSharp 3000 is really a time saver as well as a great sharpening device.

steve reeves
08-25-2008, 10:50 PM
I have both. The worksharp does indeed "work". It works best with a tool that just needs a "touch up" though. It takes a long time to get anything initially sharp with it.

In addition while it comes with most everything you need, like most of these sharpening systems... not quite everything. you'll need to purchase a couple additional wheels and a lot more of their special sandpaper which is pricey. The little 2" square "back wipe" as I call it gets dirty really quick and you'll be changing it often... they only send you one spare.

The top guide bar has no attachments to set angles with... another accessory you'll need to buy or make.

Most all the other "systems" are the same way... they give you the bare minimum with the tool and then look to eat you alive on all the accessories...

While the unit does work as I described it, I've pretty much gone back to the slow speed grinder and water stones..... it's really just as fast and gives a better final edge.

In case you weren't aware, a regular bench grinder isn't going to do what you need it too for sharpening. You'll burn up every blade you have if you try sharpening on one.

One a five star basis, I'd give the Work Sharp a 3 because it does sharpen fairly well.

glenn bradley
08-25-2008, 10:52 PM
I tried to use it to contour a lathe gouge I had and didn't have success.

Lovin' mine. Did the see-thru wheel with a coarse grit paper just not have the ooomf? Just curious, I only use it for chisels and planes and the occasional larger splitpoint drill, oh, and my awl (once). I really like the fact that once honed, you can touch up now and then while working so you keep that "just done" edge for awhile.

Dave Lehnert
08-26-2008, 12:15 AM
In case you weren't aware, a regular bench grinder isn't going to do what you need it too for sharpening. You'll burn up every blade you have if you try sharpening on one.

Not trying to pick a fight but I was reading once that burning up blades on a grinder was very true years ago but not so much a problem with the invention of High speed steel and the like we have today. You do need to be careful with carbon steel.

steve reeves
08-26-2008, 7:47 AM
Not trying to pick a fight but I was reading once that burning up blades on a grinder was very true years ago but not so much a problem with the invention of High speed steel and the like we have today. You do need to be careful with carbon steel.

While HSS and M2 and the like are indeed more heat resistant once the edge turns color the edge's temper is lost. You'll have to grind it back flat beyond the area that discolored and start over. Othewise the edge you just created will dull nearly immediately unless you're cutting the softest of material.

A practised "hand or eye" can indeed sharpen HSS on a high speed grinder I do it on steel cutting lathe bits everyday. It is however something that takes a good bit of time and practice to master. Also, metal cutting bits do not need the razor thin edges that wood cutting bits do... as the edge becomes thinner it's extremely hard not to overheat it. My highspeed grinder has a drip cooling system on it which helps tremendously in this area.

There's a very good reason all these wood oriented sharpening systems use slow speed grinders even with the "new" steels. Our edges just need to be too fine.

Tom Esh
08-26-2008, 11:57 AM
I wouldn't be without a grinder, but IMO it's just not the right tool for fine edges. The premium cool wheels are great for reducing heat build up, but you can still wreck a tool in an eyeblink on a grinder. The only time a mine sees a chisel is when one needs to be re-profiled. I do mine with an angle jig on a stone or diamond plate, however if I did a lot of neander work and wanted to minimize sharpening, I'd go Worksharp.

Homer Faucett
08-26-2008, 1:48 PM
Not trying to pick a fight but I was reading once that burning up blades on a grinder was very true years ago but not so much a problem with the invention of High speed steel and the like we have today. You do need to be careful with carbon steel.

I use carbon steel blades for flatwork chisels and plane irons. Like Tom, a grinder is only used to cut out a nick in the blade or to "retrue" the base. Stones or Scary Sharp is used to hone the edge, and the grinder never touches the blade again until a nail or something catastrophic happens.

Lathe chisels (HSS) are a different animal. The only lathe chisel that sees anything other than a grinder is the skew. Otherwise, all gouges, scrapers, etc. just get touched up on a high speed grinder freehand. You can be taught to do it in an afternoon with a little practice afterwards.

I agree that the grinder is indispensible. The WorkSharp is just the Scary Sharp method with a motor.

Bill White
08-26-2008, 7:40 PM
AND the old tried-and-true Makita slow speed horizontal wheel. Old, smooth, not real tricked out, but they work in conjunction with the water stones, diamond paddles, whet stones, and the other 80 jillion dollars worth of stuff I have.
So many tools, and I still have to work at a day job. Social Security or not-reTARment ain't in the picture.
Bill