Block plane advice

[Prashun Patel]

I'm interested in using a block plane (never have before) for truing up miters and fixing joints. Any recommendations on a good entry level plane?

Also, what's the best quick way to keep it sharp? I don't really need a Worksharp or Tormek at this point, and I don't want to invest in 25 stones...

[Jose Kilpatrick]

Advice from a beginner...

I can share my experience. I use a $30 stanley block plane that I purchased from lowes a few years back. It's quite entry level in my opinion. I use it mainly to take fix mitered corners and to take the sharp edges off of trim. It's easy to adjust and keeps a decent edge.

The way I sharpen is similar to the scary sharp method. I started with coarse grit sand paper on a flat surface and sand the edge, then I switch to a medium grit and then to fine sandpaper. If you get in a habit of doing this every few uses, it only takes a few licks on each piece of paper to get it sharp again.

Block planes are a joy to use.

[Mike Cutler]

Contact Clint Jones here on the board for the block plane.

To sharpen, use the "Scary Sharp" method. An internet search will bring up tons of info.

[Chuck Nickerson]

Shawn - Jose's advice for sandpaper is the least expensive way to start sharpening, and works well. I'd add that when resharpening a blade, it should not be necessary to start with the coarse paper, or even the medium grit; just use the fine.

Mike is also right in that contacting Clint, or someone similar, should get you a much nicer plane for only a little more money.

[James Carmichael]

Ditto on the Scary Sharp.

Fine Woodworking published a special-edition Hand Tools that is currently on the news stands (looks like a compliation of recent hand-tool articles) that covers block planes, including a good tutorial on tuning.

[Michael Faurot]

I'm interested in using a block plane (never have before) for truing up miters and fixing joints.


If you'll be working primarily with end grain, as you would when adjusting the fit of a miter joint, you'll want a low angle block plane. Also go for a plane that has an adjustable mouth.

You may also want to look into making yourself a shooting board, which can help greatly in fine tuning miters.



Any recommendations on a good entry level plane?
If you want something that works pretty much out of the box, then go for either Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. This will cost a bit more than some of the other options but it'll be a tool that will last a life time.

If you don't mind doing some work to make the plane usable, a new Stanley 60-1/2 can do the job. This will be less expensive, but probably won't work that hot out of the box.

Another option is a vintage Stanley 60-1/2. There's people on this forum that restore these and sell them.



Also, what's the best quick way to keep it sharp? I don't really need a Worksharp or Tormek at this point, and I don't want to invest in 25 stones...There's all sorts of ways to do this, but if you want something inexpensive and simple Harbor Freight has a 4 sided diamond block (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92867) that will get you started for about $15. Add to that a piece of scrap wood about 3"Wx8"L and then glue a piece of leather to it to use as a strop. Do your initial sharpening on the various grits of the diamond block and then do a final hone with the leather strop. Once you've established your edge, you don't necessarily need to sharpen the blade every time it gets dull, just strop it on the leather to touch it up periodically. If you want to add a bit more polishing/honing power to the strop, get some honing compound (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32984&cat=1,43072).

[Danny Thompson]

A true pleasure is the Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Block Plane (LN 102). The steel version is about $65 from Craftsman Studio; and the bronze version is about $87.

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A221.htm
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A220.htm

They are usually $10-15 more from the LN site, Woodcraft, Highland Hardware.

If your hands are large, you may find the 102 to be too small. If so, consider the Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane (LN 60 1/2) for $135:

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/A260.htm

As the name implies, the 60 1/2 has an adjustable mouth, which allows you to make finer adjustments to the cut, and is heavier and wider than the 102.

If all of these prices are too high, try Clint for a Stanley.


The LNs come ready to go out of the box. I started with a waterstone method, but have found it frustrating. Try the sandpaper method described above known as ScarySharp--low initial outlay, fewer worries about maintaining a flat surface.

[Johnny Kleso]

I would wait to see the New Stanleys that are due to come out in the fall...

If not for what you say you want to use it for the LN 140 would be my first choice and a Old or New Stanley 60 1/2 might be a good entry level plane..

What ever plane you choose you need a Sharpening Method and Scary Sharp is a good entry level method...

[John Schreiber]

I have a Lie-Nielsen Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane (LN 60 1/2), and while love is a strong word, I think I love it.

I use scary sharp and am very satisfied with it.