strenght of Festool Domino

[Steven Bolton]

I probably never would be able to justify buying a Festool Domino machine but I am wondering if there are opinions as to its strength. Is it as strong as a mortise and tenon joint? Any other thoughts.

Thanks

Steve Bolton

[Mike Cutler]

Steven

Technically it's still an M&T joint. It's just a loose tenon variation, and not an integral tenon.
I would say that it is equally as strong as a like sized M&T joint. There are ways to make an M&T joint stronger by increasing tenon width and length, but the Domino seems to have the ability to provide an adequate sized mortise for furniture making.

I'm pretty much a traditional M&T guy, but I did a project that required close to 600 M&T joints a few years back. The Domino had yet to be released, or one would have been really tempting to use on those shelves.;)

[Darl Bundren]

Unfortunately, I do not remember the publication, but a year or so ago a magazine (maybe American Woodworker?) did a comparison of the different types of joints, and I think that M&T came in first there. The Domino was a few steps below, but it seems that the shear and breaking capacities of the Domino joint are sufficient for most furniture.

I have a Domino jointer, and I sure do like it--it makes things go fast and accurately.

[Dan Clermont in Burnaby]

I can't say I've run tests comparing the Domino to Tradition M & T's but will tell you the Domino's are very strong and more then adequate for furniture.

Like a traditional M & T you need to choose the right Domino for the right application (wood thickness, indoor or outdoor, etc)

I've owned my Domino for just under a year and must say that it has really simplifed my joinery and it is one of the Festool's that impresses me the most

Dan CLermont

[Charles Lent]

If you can't afford a Domino, you can easily make mortises with a router, a spiral bit, and a home made fixture, or for about $200 you can buy a Mortise Pal. Then make the tenon stock using your table saw(grain should run longways). All that is necessary is to get a close slip fit of the long sides of the tenon and the mortise, and your joint will be strong after glue-up. It isn't even necessary to round the tenon stock to match the shape of the routed mortice. I usually leave these areas open to contain any glue squeeze-out, and I've never had a joint fail that was made this way.

Charley