Laserable Paint Recommendations

[R. A. Mitchell]

I'm experimenting with different metals and paints for some new applications. I'm using the paint both as a mask and as marking for the final product. Think gauges. One of the metals I'm messing around with is titanium. Cermark works well to mark the metal, but obviously is no mask.

What paints "laser off" the best? I'm looking for something that adheres well to metal, but can be burned completely off areas that you don't want it. I like how automotive black self etching primer lasers off, but the paint you leave behind is pretty easily wiped away with a toothbrush and water. I'm looking for something more durable. I'm getting ready to try regular paints over the primer, but before I go out and buy a dozen samples I don't need, I wonder if anyone would like to share their experience on this topic?

Rob

[Joe Pelonio]

I've used both Rustoleum and Krylon, no difference in laserability but in colors available.

[David Fairfield]

Are you planning an acid etch of the lasered-away areas?

Dave

[Mike Null]

The standard award plates which are lacquer on steel or on brass laser very well.

[R. A. Mitchell]

David,

No, not acid etch. It's more of a plating technique my customer is developing.

Rob

[David Fairfield]

OK, but you'll still need the metal to be totally stripped of paint or laquer and any burn residue?

[R. A. Mitchell]

OK, but you'll still need the metal to be totally stripped of paint or laquer and any burn residue?

Where I want the paint burned off, I want it burned off completely down to bare metal. If I haven't burned off the paint - areas like limited text or small graphics - then I want that paint to remain.

[Peter Boyford]

I don't know if this is an international brand, but in DK there is a spray paint called PlastiKote. It adheres very good to aluminum, and lasers perfectly off again, leaving a shiny engraving and a durable paint layer.

Hope that helped...

[bob pfohler]

Plasti-kote is a Valspar product.

[Bill Morrison]

What happens when the laser hits bare metal, nothing? Doesn't it reflect or bounce off in some manner?

Bill

[Scott Shepherd]

Bill, no, not really, unless it's a mirror polished base metal. Otherwise, there's not much to worry about, and even with the mirror finish, there have been debates on whether or not it's a problem. Some people have demonstrated bounce back issues while others have posted examples done with no issues.

[R. A. Mitchell]

Thanks, guys. You've given me some ideas as to where I should start!

[Bill Cunningham]

Krylon Fusion has worked well as a laser-through paint on just about every material I've tried..

[Richard Rumancik]

Rob, I have been looking for something that lasers clean as well but also stands up to chemicals. I am etching, not plating but there are similarities. I am not using titanium but brass and aluminum. I have found that half the battle is determining the best way to prepare the metal for painting. In some cases you need to abrade, chemical etch, or clean using various chemicals to make the surface properly receptive to a coating. Usually it is a combination of processes. Brass is not an easy material to paint. Like you, I want a coating that lasers away cleanly but the remaining coating holds tight. These properties seem to be somewhat mutually exclusive. If it has better adhesion, it seems more difficult to laser off. For plating or etching you need an absolutely clean surface; no residue at all.

I know Rodne has posted on the topic of etching with ferric chloride and suggested there was no paint that would ablate completely. He recommended clean-up of the residue with some kind of abrasive pad. I am reluctant to do this for my process as it is easy to damage the integrity of the remaining resist. I am still hoping to find a resist for brass that does not need a secondary cleaning process.

I don't know how titanium is normally painted but you will probably have to just keep searching the Internet and testing some products to see what works best. The aircraft industry is probably one of the biggest users of titanium so maybe you can find something from them as to how to prepare the metal and info on paints. But much of it is trial and error.