Materials for an Infill Smoother

[Brian Kent]

I'm on the research phase of building an Infill Smoother.

I did a test making a Stanley infill out of a #4. I'll post pictures next week when the permanent blade comes (Hock 3/16" parallel blade for infills from "The Best Things"). It works well with a temporary 1/8" blade.

I want the infill to be the same size and general dimensions as an A13. No Norris adjuster. To be used for final smoothing.

I've done a lot of reading online and I'm looking at materials now. I find some variation on thickness of metals and I don't understand types of steel enough. I will probably buy a 1/4" blade from Brese Planes or Steve Knight.

Dovetailed:
Question #1: The sides will be brass and the sole will be steel. If I use peened dovetails to attach the two, what thickness do I want for the sides? My local metals supplier has 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" brass.

Question #2: If I use peened dovetails, what thickness steel?

Question #3: If I use peened dovetails, what kind of steel?

Riveted
Question #4: If I fasten the sides and bottom with brass rivets (screwed and epoxied into the sole), what thickness of brass?

Question #5: If I use brass rivets, what thickness steel?

Question #6: If I use brass rivets, what kind of steel?

Thanks for any help!

Brian

[Mike Henderson]

I don't know the answers to your questions but there's a very good book on making an infill plane,

Kingshott, Jim, "Making & Modifying Woodworking Tools (http://www.amazon.com/Making-Modifying-Woodworking-Tools-Kingshott/dp/0946819327)" ISBN 0-946819-32-7

It's not currently being published. Other than the link I gave, try searching on Kingshott and the name of the book and you may find some other people who have built infill planes from his book. I remember there was a web site (http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/a13.html)a while back that had very detailed instructions based on his book.

Look towards the bottom of this page (http://www.nonesuchtools.com/kingshott.html#more) - there's some links to infill plane stuff

Good luck!

Mike

Some other infill links

http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/making-infill.txt
http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/dovetailhandplane.htm
http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/jy-panel/jy-panel.html
http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/schueller/schueller-practice-dovetails-v2.html
http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/Insights-BP.html
http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/a13.html
http://showcase.netins.net/web/iabonsai/LaRue/SJBT.html

[Steve knight]

a 1/4" sole and 3/16" sides makes a nice beefy plane. steel is not too critical. cold rolled is nice because you can get it nice and flat and accurate for very little money.

[Brian Kent]

Mike, I have been using Yehle's site and drawings. I wish I had the Klingshot book, but I am checking through the Library to see if I can avoid paying over $40 used. Sounds like a real classic. I'll be looking over the links this evening.

Steve, would you recommend the peened double dovetails or screwed and glued in rivets for a beginner at metal working? I'm willing to try either.

Brian

[Doug Shepard]

Give Ron Brese a call. I'm sure he'd know a thing or two that might help.

[Raney Nelson]

If it were me, I'd probably be torn between Steve's recommendations: 1/4" sole and 3/16" sides or 3/16" sole with 1/8" sides. I'd probably go on the smaller side (I did a 1/4-3/16 A1 panel and it's heavier than I think it should be) .You could also go a tad larger, but I think it'll get pretty heavy. Ron Brese tends to go with thicker materials than most of the makers, though, and his planes look knockout, and I've heard nothing but raves so there's a lot of lee-way. I would strongly recommend O1 for the sole rather than mild steel.

I have no experience with riveted planes - Ron is most definitely the guy to ask about them. He's a great resource, and has always been very very generous with advice in my experience.

[Johnny Kleso]

For a Norris style (dovetail) Plane they used 1/4" sole and 5/32" sides

Ron Brese uses a 3/8" sole and 3/16" side now down from 1/4"

[Steve knight]

I think it is more important to have a thicker sole then sides. this helps to keep the sole flat with the blade pressure. old infill's had thinner soles with a block of metal riveted to the sole.

[Ray Gardiner]

In additon to the other links (great list of resources Mike!)

Have a look at this one as well, Peter has a construction article in the latest
issue of the HTPAA newsletter. (I don't think it's on-line however)

http://www.petermcbride.com/planemaking/smooth.htm


Regards
Ray

[Brian Kent]

I think it is more important to have a thicker sole then sides. this helps to keep the sole flat with the blade pressure. old infill's had thinner soles with a block of metal riveted to the sole.

That's good news, because steel is a whole lot cheaper than brass:).

[philip marcou]

You could certainly contact Ron Brese, and he can advise re the rivet method of assembly.
If you decide on dovetails and have had no previous experience at this I suggest you use black hot rolled steel for the sole rather than O1 tool steel- easier to work, kinder on tools -and much cheaper. Re the brass type: if you use brass plate (e.g alloy C26000 70/30) rather than extruded it is softer and peens well- extruded brass (e g alloy 380) is harder and difficult to peen- but has other desirable properties.
Steel types? Don't use BMS (bright mild) as it distorts when machined-makes it sort of difficult to get a flat sole. Black hot rolled is stable but there is work to remove the scale unless you have a surface grinder or you are a maestro on the belt grinder- or you like to file a lot. O1 tool steel comes ready accurately ground, expensive and tough on tools like bandsaws, taps etc. Both tool steel and ordinary steel (balck stuff) are just fine for soles i.e rigid enough especially if thick (at least 6mm )
If you want mucho heft then use 9mm steel for the sole-it will end up at around 8.5mm when the shouting is over, and 1/4 inch brass for the sides.Having a thick sole is also useful if you go the screw/rivet root.
Let me know when you have made fifty (50) or so, but in the mean time feel free to contact me at any time as you go. (:))