Knocking Off Sharp Edges

[Keith Starosta]

I was wondering what techniques you folks use to knock down the sharp edges around your casework. Is it just a matter of using some sandpaper on the edges, or a light pass with a block plane? I'm finishing up my first piece of casework, and am at this stage.

Thanks for your help!

- Keith

[Wilbur Pan]

Block plane.

[Alex Shanku]

220g paper

[John Eaton]

Either will work - pay attention to the grain direction if using a plane. I used to have this edging tool that knocked off edge banding that I liked to use but it got stepped on and broken. There are also long-handled edging tools available - try any of several techniques and you'll find something you prefer.

-- John

[glenn bradley]

I use a rubber block (or small scrap of sandpaper for the tight spots) and "ease" edges by hand. If I am chamfering or doing something more than "just a bit" I use a Colt and a profile bit.

[George Sanders]

I have an old Stanley #28 edge shaver. It has 2 profiles; one for 1/8" and one for 1/16". This tool works very well for relieving sharp edges if you go with the grain.

[Jim Becker]

Depending on how much I want to knock off, it's either a few quick swipes with 320 or my block plane. Since I typically do pretty sharp edged Shaker style, I tend to the abrasives for minimal effect...just enough to insure no adhesion problems with finish from surface tension and to avoid cuts to flesh... ;)

[Danny Thompson]

I use my little LN 102 block plane. It shaves the tiniest of hairs from an edge.

[Lee Schierer]

I use a little chamfering plane that I made. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/bevelplane.jpg
You do have to watch the grain direction a bit. I also sometimes just soften them with 220 grit sand paper to take off the sharpness. If I want a more rounded edge I use a 1/8" radius round over bit in my router.

[Keith Starosta]

Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys!! I appreciate it!

- Keith

[David Giles]

One swipe of 220g sandpaper for a "sharp" edge that's not too sharp.

Block plane for a light chamfer.

1/8" router bit for drawer boxes and other places that need a "softer" look and feel.

Each piece uses either roundover type trim or chamfer type trim, but not both.

[Dan Lee]

LV block plane with chamfer attachment. If I want more of a rounded look I'll hit it with a little 220 after the block plane.

[Peter Gregory]

The killer is when you use a plane and you rip off a piece of wood. Followed by a choice word or two. Makes sand paper look very attractive.

I use a trim router, with a round over bit most times.

[Per Swenson]

Hi all,

Dedicated laminate trimmer with a 1/8th round over set deep
in the housing.
Very fast.

Per

[Richard M. Wolfe]

The last time I was at Harbor Freight I bought a twenty buck trim router and put a 1/16" roundover in it. It's a start to the saying, "A router for every bit.":) If I want to be picky with inside corners I use a little 220 grit.

[Peter Quinn]

I use a small sanding block with 150 grit or 220 grit, a block plane or a 1/16" radius roundover (freud makes a nice one) depending on the application.

[Doug Shepard]

I like to use a block plane with a few passes at an eyeballed 45 then a few more in between to give it a more or less rounded edge. It's not a true roundover but not a chamfer either and is probably along the lines of a 1/32" radius roundover.

[Steve Clardy]

Depends on what style/look I'm after.

Sometimes its a 1/8 round over, or 3/16, or 1/4.

Sometimes its a slight chamfer, all with a trim router.
Sometimes it's simply picking up a used, wore out ROS disc and run it over the edge to take the knife sharp edge off.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I do it while I'm sanding. All I want is to soften them a tad.