How do you sharpen your skews?

[Joshua Dinerstein]

I have recently started playing with my skew chisels and doing some spindle work. I like the thought of learning something new and using a tool that many experts have kind of indicated really is one of the best.

So a week or so ago I got mine out of my Windsor Design, the higher end HarborFreight, box it came it and tested the edge. Felt sharp enough on the first pass and so I tried it on the wood. Ouch! Amazing the kinds of catches one can get with that tool. I managed somehow in the process to bug up the edge so I started trying to sharpening it with my "Darrell Feltmate" design home sharpening rig. Things did not quite so as planned and the edge is very much worse than it was.

I figured, "Hey! Now is a good time to try a radius grind on this skew as well". So I started searching the internet. I found tons of links to something called the Veritas Skew jig. But nothing showed how it was used so I have no idea if it is a good solution. I found others, from OneWay Man., that showed using something similar to what I have and they seemed successful. I found still other that indicated you should use the side of the grinding wheel.

All of the above is of course completely in keeping with the "buyer beware" mentality of the internet. :D So I not surprised. I was however a bit dismayed because I had hoped to find a decent description how how to sharpen one in a repeatable reliable way and also exactly how to put a radius grind on one. So here I am to ask the experts here who have been so helpful in the past.

How do you grind/sharpen your skews? And second how does one go about re-griding a skew to have a radius edge.

Or perhaps as #3 is it better to just buy something already radiused and ready to roll like a Lacer or Raffan skew?

Thanks!
Joshua

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Well, first you are going to say,whoa, too expensive, but the Tormek has a jig which sharpens the rectangle and oval shanked skews. it beats the daylights out of using the side of the wheel. cant help you on the radiusing except do it by free-hand.hopefully helpful, Max

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Well, first you are going to say,whoa, too expensive, but the Tormek has a jig which sharpens the rectangle and oval shanked skews.
Ok. Well I will stop by Woodcraft on my way home and take a look at the Tormek and see what it does. They might also have a pre-radiused skew to look at.

Thanks for the idea.

Joshua

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Joshua,

I sharpen my straight skew using a Oneway Wolverine jig and skew attachment. Why...it's quick.

I sharpen my radiused skews freehand on the grinder.

If you seriously want to learn to use the skew buy Allan Lacer's video "the Skew Chisel....The Dark Side....The Sweet Side" or better yet....find someone locally who uses the skew and likes it. Have them show you.

In the video, Lacer points out several things. First, he states you should probably start out with a straight skew chisel. Secondly he shows you how to sharpen a straight skew.....Third he shows you how to grind a straight skew into a radius skew. Fourth, he shows you how to sharpen a radiused skew chisel. He uses a slow speed grinder with a 40 grit and 60 grit wheel IIRC. I was just watching it today and sharpened my 5/8" Lacer radius skew.

Joshua, I as I told you in the PM........it is a wonderful tool...the angle of the bevel is important......the skew must be SHARP SHARP and you must practice. It's not easy to learn but once you learn....you will love it.



PM Brian Brown about his experience this past weekend using my skews. My skews aren't magic. They have the bevel at the right angle and they are sharp. Brian indicated he had not had a good experience with the skew. He and I co-turned a pen using nothing but a skew. Then he and his wife co-turned a pen using nothing but a skew.

Get the video or get a mentor! It'll help.

Good luck and don't give up!

[Johnny Kleso]

In the Alan Lancer video he said you should stick with sharpening the standard skew before trying the raidus..

What you need is a adjustable tool tool rest, I modeled mine some what after the LV model..

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/sharpening/MKIII/2.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/sharpening/MKIII/7.jpg

I bought the aluminum scraps from
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale

[Jason Solodow]

I sharpen all three of my skews the same way, free hand on the disc sander. I have a 120 grit disc on there and get a razor sharp edge almost instantly. Freehanding it took some practice, but once you get the hang of it it's incredibly fast. I have a flat skew, an oval, and an Alan Lacer radiused, and still, I sharpen all three on the sander. Just my pennies worth....

[Jim Underwood]

I take mine to the grinder free hand. Then I take it to the bench stone and hone it sharp.

[Tim A. Mitchell]

I use the wolverine, but just the adjustable rest. Get the angle set right, and hold the edge 90 degrees to the wheel (tool flat, at an angle across the rest).

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Hi Ken,


I sharpen my straight skew using a Oneway Wolverine jig and skew attachment. Why...it's quick.
Interesting. I have found a number of things from people that said they felt it wasn't useful. Interesting to get an opposing point of view. I figure like so many things everything is useful in someway to someone. :)


I sharpen my radiused skews freehand on the grinder.
Ok. So looking for a jig for this type probably isn't the way to go. I did stop by the woodcraft on the way home and in a completely different spot from the rest of the sharpening stuff they had the Veritas jig I mentioned. Once I saw what it was and read the docs from the back of the package it is a pretty simple thing and I can see how one could do it by hand just using a finger as the rotation point for the skew.


If you seriously want to learn to use the skew buy Allan Lacer's video "the Skew Chisel....The Dark Side....The Sweet Side"[quote]
I do. I really seriously do. I actually ordered a copy of that DVD. I expected it to take longer for some reason but I got a lovely surprise when I got home from work this evening and it was in my mailbox. I haven't had a chance to start watching it. Pesky lawn needed to be mowed. But it is on my list of things to do ASAP tomorrow. I will have to try the local turners club here again and see if I can't meet some people who could help with these types of things as well. I have been hesitant to do so but that seems a little silly at the moment.

[quote]PM Brian Brown about his experience this past weekend using my skews.
I had read those posts and viewed the pictures. Looked like a fun time was had by all. I will write and ask him what he thought of the experience.


Good luck and don't give up!
I won't! And thanks for all the replies to post and PMs. I have appreciated the information greatly!

Joshua

[Joshua Dinerstein]

What you need is a adjustable tool tool rest, I modeled mine some what after the LV model..

Wow Johnny! Those look seriously awesome! Got a measure drawing/parts list for making them? :D

Thanks,
Joshua

[Rasmus Petersen]

i have the wolverine skew jig but dont use it.. i grind mine on the rest that comes with the wolverine, and then use a fine grit large slip stone that i have by the lathe, a few brushes keeps it razor sharp all the time.

[Judy Kingery]

Joshua, I used the Wolverine, on both the gouges and then to achieve the radious on the skew. But the edge on the skew as well as my parting tool, I use a belt sander. Just a little table top belt sander works extremely well and will put a real nice, even and consistent edge on for you. Best to you, Jude

[Norm Zax]

See the 1st video. You wont look back. Then decide how you want to sharpen.

[Gary Max]

6 by 24 blue Norton belt----mounted on a table top sander---free hand---takes seconds to sharpen.

[Paul Douglass]

I learned from Russ Fairfield, I sharppen mine on wet/dry sandpaper and light oil. Takes a minute and it is razor sharp.

[Larry Marley]

I really missed the Veritas skew jig when I first changed to the Wolverine system. This, until someone here said they just drilled a 1/4" hole in the Wolverine tool rest. I started using the radius after a class with Allen Lacer. I like this jig. My free hand is a little too free.

[Scott Lux]

How do you sharpen your skews?

Often and poorly

[Ken Casser]

What I'm getting from this is, it's easy when you know how. :rolleyes: I wish I could be of more help, but I have the Wolverine, the Veritas, water stones, oil stones, and have tried nearly everything. My edges are workable, but they're not near as sharp as they were when my skews were brand new. And, with the Wolverine either with or without the Veritas, every time I change tools, skew to gouge or scraper, I have to reposition the guides. You either have to be very accurate doing this or you end up having to grind off a lot of material to get to the edge. Now I'm contemplating purchasing the Tormek because I would hope that it would make duplicating an edge and changing tools much easier. But even with that, I've read that you can't necessarily go right from the grinding wheel to the lathe. I have a friend who agreed to show me how to sharpen the skew, and he took a water stone, ran it over the edge a couple of times and it was very sharp. I don't think I'll ever be able to do that. Let me know how you make out...:confused:

[Grant Wilkinson]

I use the Veritas tool rest with their skew jig. It's quick, repeatable and puts an excellent radius profile on the skew. Lacer mentions it in his videos, by the way.

[David Walser]

Regarding the Tormek jigs: Up thread, someone said that the Tormek jigs are useful for sharpening a straight edged skew, but not a radiused skew. Strictly speaking, that's not true. Tormek's SVS-Multi Jig can be used to produce either a straight or a radius edged skew. For more info, start here: http://www.tormek.com/en/woodturning/

Adjustable tool rests: For those lacking the skills or patience to make your own adjustable tool rest (and for those, like me, who lack both), CSUSA has one that is both good and relatively inexpensive: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Sharpening___Universal_Jigs___Apprentice_Universal _Tool_Support___apprentice_tool_support?Args=

It was on sale a while ago. It was a better buy back then. For comparison, here's a link to Lee Valley's tool rest: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Sharpening___Universal_Jigs___Apprentice_Universal _Tool_Support___apprentice_tool_support?Args=

Sharpening instruction:


The AAW produced a DVD a few years ago on how to sharpen turning tools. It is still available from the AAW, but mine came as a "premium" for joining. Free is better, but the $25 charge is very reasonable for the information gained. This is the second-best video I've seen on sharpening. Here's a link: http://www.woodturner.org/products/videos/fundamental_sharp/
The best non-Tormek sharpening video I've seen is not a sharpening video at all. It's Lyle Jamieson's Bowl Basics the Easy Way. Lyle's two disk DVD provides a wealth of information about things that are in addition to the topic of bowl turning. He tells you how to set up your lathe, chucking techniques, how to store CA glue, etc. One of the "additional topics" is about 15 minutes worth of time spent on sharpening a bowl gouge. He walks you through the kinds of jigs on the market and why he prefers the one he uses. He very clearly explains how to set up a jig and shows you why his method works. All in all, the DVD set is worth the money even if you're not interested in turning bowls. Obligatory link: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Videos___Techniques___Bowl_Basics_the_Easy_Way___j amieson_bowl_basics?Args=

I know that was more than a "couple" of additional thoughts. I just couldn't help myself. Don't you pity my kids?

[David Walser]

...Now I'm contemplating purchasing the Tormek because I would hope that it would make duplicating an edge and changing tools much easier. But even with that, I've read that you can't necessarily go right from the grinding wheel to the lathe. ...

Ken, I use a Tormek and I've found it very easy to go directly from the Tormek to the lathe. Assuming I'm just touching up an edge, (using the proper jig) I give the edge about three passes on the "coarse" 220 grit stone. I then "grade" the stone, which causes it to "act" like a 1000 grit stone and I give the edge another three passes. Then, I use the leather honing wheel to polish the bevel to a mirror finish. After these three steps, you should have a razor sharp edge with a smooth, polished bevel. I'm not sure what grit the honing compound equates to, but I'm confident the finished edge rivals whatever someone could get from a water-stone.

Note: I don't always go through all three steps. If I'm roughing out a bowl, I might like the "rougher" edge left by the 220 grit wheel. I also don't hone my scrapers (the bevel's not supposed to rub, anyway) except to remove the bur.

Note II: Going through all three steps takes, on average, less than a minute total. Can someone grind their tool more quickly on a dry grinder? Sure, assuming they don't need to fiddle around with the jig or tool rest to get the right bevel angle. But, you're not going to get nearly as fine an edge off a dry grinder (using an 60, 80, or 100 grit wheel) as you'll get from a Tormek.

[Andrew Derhammer]

Free hand, infact i sharpen all my tools except my bowl gouge free hand. This includes my spindle/detail gouge, roughing gouge, parting tools, scrapers(ok so i use a rest), and skew. I do it all on a belt sander.

[Roger Bell]

I don't sharpen the skew much. But I use it a lot. My favorite tool for spindle work. I have two that are radiused and two that are straight.

To begin with, I shape freehand on the grinder. After the initial hollow grind to shape, I hone on diamond stones. It takes QUITE a while before the hollow is honed out and I have to return to the grinder. Freehand honing is really quite easy.

Learned to do so first hand from Alan Lacer and Matthew Hill.

[Joshua Dinerstein]

To begin with, I shape freehand on the grinder. After the initial hollow grind to shape, I hone on diamond stones. It takes QUITE a while before the hollow is honed out and I have to return to the grinder. Freehand honing is really quite easy.
Interesting. I would have assumed from watching Raffan's videos that sharpening happens quite a lot. What kind of a hone do you use? I have been looking at them and there are a number of different sizes and options. Not sure which is best or perhaps more accurately works best.

Thanks,
Joshua

[Joshua Dinerstein]

I have a friend who agreed to show me how to sharpen the skew, and he took a water stone, ran it over the edge a couple of times and it was very sharp. I don't think I'll ever be able to do that. Let me know how you make out...:confused:

Hummm. I wonder what he did. The first thought that went through my mind when I read this was was it YOUR waterstone or HIS waterstone? I wonder if your issues are related to the things you own and use to sharpen or if it is merely skill and understanding. Because at the moment I very clearly am lacking in both. hehehe But the key, I am told, is to know that you don't know. :D

I will keep you apprised of my successes and failures.

Joshua

[Joshua Dinerstein]

Well I have now watched the Alan Lacer video. What I can tell you is: DUDE! He makes it look so easy! All the way around. But I did learn quite a bit from watching it. I think I will go watch it again before going to bed. One of the days this weekend I will have to sharpen my skews properly and go give things a whirl.

Turns out I had second set of HF HSS tools out in the garage unopened. I remember now buying them with the thoughts of making the tools over into other tools that I needed. I.e. turn the skews into scrapers of various flavors. But now I will keep them as skews. So I have 2 1" straight skew and 1 1/2" straight skew. I will start with the straight ones as Ken and others have indicated can be a good starting point and turn the second 1" into a radiused skew as soon as I can figure out the proper angles on things.

Should be an interesting weekend all things considered.

Joshua