Sanding Schedule for Cutting Boards?

[Art Davis]

I have searched and read a lot of threads here on cutting boards, but haven't been able to come up with an answer to the following question:

What sanding schedule should I use for a cutting board (long grain, not end grain style), and I intend to finish with mineral oil with bees wax as I've seen recommended here.

Should I stop after 120-180 grit or sand on up to 220 or so? Thought there might be some issues relative to what better resists the knives.

Thanks.

[Peter Quinn]

Wanna do your self a real favor? Finish that baby with a smooth plane and scrapers. Skip the sand paper all together. Sand paper doesn't do anything positive to wood that will be used as a cutting board. A good sharp plane will slice the fibers and leave a more water resistant surface. Sand paper leaves a comparatively open and raged surface that is thirsty for water. Yup, hand plane, card scraper, oil, enjoy.

[mreza Salav]

What's the point of going to a fine grit when it's gonna be beaten up with knifes in no time? I sanded mine but now is full of scratches and knife marks (it's an end-grain).

[Eric Larsen]

There are a lot of people, me included, who would never cut any food on wood (or glass).

I won't cut on wood because of the contamination issues. Even "safe" vegetables aren't really safe on wood. The e-coli scare this summer for tomatoes, cilantro, jalapenos and whatever else should be enough to raise some red flags.

You can't adequately sanitize wood short of an autoclave, which would ruin the joints.

As for glass, never. Thats like sharpening a chisel with a grinder spinning at 7,000rpm. Cutting on glass ruins knives.

I'd advise getting three large plastic cutting boards -- red for meat, green for veg, and yellow for dairy. They're easy on your knives and only require soap, water and a bleach-solution spritz.

Best of all, you can arrange them on your counter so it looks like a stoplight. Cool!

[William Harrison]

Hey just wanted to chime in on wood vrs plastic cutting boards. Here is a link from UC Davis. I have read somewhere else in a medical journal JAMA, I believe, the same findings but no link that I could find.

http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm

bottom line wood is safe if not safer than plastic.

[Jeff Bratt]

Studies (http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm) show that wood - which has been used for cutting boards for hundreds of years - is as safe or safer than plastic. When plastic is new is is OK. However, after it's been used, the surface becomes scarred with knife cuts that are are almost impossible to clean out. Bacteria thrive on the food residue in these surface scars.

However the natural hygroscopic nature of wood tends to dessicate any bacteria that get into the surface scars or pores of wood cutting boards and they die. It is still a good idea to use close-grained woods for cutting boards - e.g. red oak is not a good choice.

I agree that separate cutting boards are a good idea, and that glass is really tough on your knives...

[Walt Stevens]

There are a lot of people, me included, who would never cut any food on wood (or glass).

I won't cut on wood because of the contamination issues. Even "safe" vegetables aren't really safe on wood. The e-coli scare this summer for tomatoes, cilantro, jalapenos and whatever else should be enough to raise some red flags.

I'm planning to make some end grain cutting boards as Christmas presents, but first I check out this article about sanitation.
http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htm
It seems plastic is worse than wood when it comes to harboring bacteria in knife marks.

The Wood Whisperer has a good video about making and finishing end grain cutting boards.

[Dan Gill]

First I sand to 150, but that's mostly on the edge grain where I've routed the boards. Then I moisten them to raise the grain and sand again, to 150.

[Eric Larsen]

That was a lot of interesting reading...

I still think I'm safer with plastic, because I replace my boards fairly regularly. I also know to put the board in the same position each time, so all the cuts run basically parallel. That seems to make a difference cleaning, but I only have anecdotal evidence to support that.

I think it's also a convenience thing -- I want a cutting board I can run through the dishwasher.

[Eddie Darby]

I've run across somewhere that they use to put salt on a cutting boards after cleaning it, to keep the beasties at bay.

[Richard Magbanua]

I made a batch of long grain cutting boards for Mother's Day (8 big and 8 small) from maple, cherry and walnut. After I ran them through the planer I rounded the edges with a router and a 1/8" bit and hit them with 220 and a ROS. I finished with mineral oil. They turned out pretty nice. I made another set just last week the same way except I used a smooth plane after the planer. It was better than the first batch by far. If you don't have a smooth plane, then use a card scraper. The difference is when you run your hand against the grain you can still feel it catch just a bit after sandpaper.
Now, why would you work to get it just so if your gonna just cut it up? I would hope it's because you want to make something really well and beautiful regardless how it will look months from now. After you put on all the oil you will be very satisfied at how beautiful they look. And if they get cut up? Just smooth them down again, put on some more oil and lay them out on the counter for everyone else to see!

[Brian Smith3]

When my boards have a lot of cuts in them I send them through the planer, then light sand at 220, then clean. Then I coat them with grape seed oil. I do it about once a year. BUT I wouldn't send end grain through the planer. So I think you are stuck sanding. :( (Maybe you could use a router sled.)