Painting Furniture

[Jeremy Kargas]

I've got a question that I've always wondered about but just never asked until now, when I finally need to. What kind of finish schedule does everyone use to paint furniture?

My wife would like a couple dressers and a headboard made up for our daughter and really likes the white painted look (yes dear...). I've painted some closet organizers with latex before, but it seems that latex wouldn't hold up real well to abuse from a child. Do you paint with latex and then give it a top coat of laquer or do you paint with an enamel like Rust-Oleum or paint with enamel and a top coat of laquer...??? I would just like a very durable finish.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

Latex paint is not a good idea for furniture. Even if you top coat it with something clear, it's not going be very durable for furniture (or built-ins) because it's so soft. And, you get the dreaded "blocking" (stuff sticking to it almost forever) if you set things on it like books or art.

My first choice would be to get Target Coatings USL tinited by Jeff Jewitt and spray it on. My whole kitchen was done that way My second choice (and the one for brushing) is to use a 100% acrylic product, such as Sherwin Williams ProClassic water borne or Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo water bourne. These are not latex paints and are 100% acrylic. My last choice would be to use an oil-based enamel, but I don't like to use oil based finishes, personally.

[Steve Schoene]

Jim's got it exactly right. I will just add that if it comes down to serious abuse, oil based enamel will outlast the waterborne alternative. But you've got a daughter who wants white furniture--you're much more likely to get "normal" conditions where the difference between the two really kinds of finish doesn't matter very much.

[Stephen Bunch]

The tinted WB lacquers are a great choice - General Finishes will tint theirs for you as well. I always like to clear coat over my painted finishes.

The SW proclassic or all surface enamel is fine (oil or WB). obviously, the oil base will be more durable, but a mess to clean up and slow to dry.

my most recent project was painted with the SW oil base, then WB glaze, then topcoated with clear WB lacquer.

[Matt Meiser]

I recently used the WB Proclassic on a bookshelf and was impressed with coverage and the lack of blocking (stickiness.) Its been too soon to tell the durability first hand, but what I read was good.

[Mike McCann]

When I did white for my daughters toy chest. I sprayed a primer then used white milk paint and then a water based poly. Worked great.

here is a picture of it.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o223/mackel40/P1010001-1.jpg

[Randy Carnley]

I redid a 42 year old kitchen (stained and lacquered cabinets) with SW ProClassic Acrylic. That is good stuff. Thinned it 10% and sprayed with a four stage turbine. Excellent results. I had wanted to use SW white conversion varnish which I used for many years when I was in full time business but could not justify the cost of 5 gallons when I only needed 2. But the acrylic enamel is holding up wonderfully well. We have noticed that during the rest of the remodeling that the cabinets are standing up to scuffs and bangs very well. We are pleased.

[Jeremy Kargas]

Thanks for all the replies thus far. I like the tinted USL method as that stuff is a joy to work with. As far as using the tinted USL, do you have to build up the finish to make it cover like paint, or is it a somewhat transparent finish?

[Matthew Voss]

Jeremy-

Use a pigment like Mixol. You can achieve an opaque finish without much building.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/pigments-mixol.html

[Jim Becker]

As far as using the tinted USL, do you have to build up the finish to make it cover like paint, or is it a somewhat transparent finish?

It's like any other 100% acrylic finish with color...not transparent. But what's really nice about the tinted USL is that it's ready to spray right out of the container and without the issues you will have with thicker "paints".

[Jack Camillo]

I have a similar project, for the same customer (daughter!). With the SW Pro Classic, do you have to prime first?

[Phil Phelps]

...paint sticks to primer. I have posted many times on what paint for furniture. Alkyd paint is the best. Even better with an airless with a fine finish tip.

[Larry Fox]

I second Jim's recomendation of the tinted Target USL. I am doing a project with it right now and the stuff sprays like a dream and coverage is very good. One thing that I have observed about it though is I need to stir it fairly frequently as the pigment seems to come out of suspension quicker than I would have expected sitting in the pressure-pot.

[Randy Carnley]

I have a similar project, for the same customer (daughter!). With the SW Pro Classic, do you have to prime first?

I hope I'm not intruding...wasn't sure if you were directing this question to me or not but it seemed you were by the wording....if so, the answer is yes. I primed it and then two good coats of finish with turbine sprayer on doors and drawer fronts. Brush painted the cabinets inside and out with primer and three coats of finish. Lots of work but they look pretty good for 42 year old cabinets. Blessings