Rob Blaustein
08-17-2008, 2:32 PM
I'm building some storage cabinets--Euro-style, frameless--and would like to have pull-out shelves/drawers in one or two of them. But I'm stuck on something--choice of concealed hinges and how to install the slides. It seems like there are two options:
1. Use a zero-protrusion hinge that allows the door to open without getting in the way of pull-out shelves. I could mount the slides directly to the inside of the cabinet, but I would need to place the hinges where they wouldn't interfere with a drawer. If I placed a hinge close to the bottom, it seems like I lose space--the bottom of the lowest shelf/drawer would need to be about 5 inches higher than the bottom of the cabinet. Or I could have a drawer on the bottom but place the lowest hinge 5-6 inches from the bottom. Or I could not worry about the placement of the hinges/drawers and mount the slides on spacers/cleats. But if I'm going to the trouble of doing that I think it makes more sense to use:
2. 'Standard' concealed hinges like Blum 120 degree for frameless. For near full overlay, these will allow the door to open leaving a protrusion of 11.5 mm, with the hinge protruding from the side 20.5 mm (I looked this up on the Blum site). So if I didn't want to worry about placement of hinges and drawers, I would mount on spacers that are thicker than 20.5 mm.
Those of you who've made cabinets and pantries with sliding shelves/drawers--have you wrestled with this issue, and what did you end up doing (and why)?
--Rob
1. Use a zero-protrusion hinge that allows the door to open without getting in the way of pull-out shelves. I could mount the slides directly to the inside of the cabinet, but I would need to place the hinges where they wouldn't interfere with a drawer. If I placed a hinge close to the bottom, it seems like I lose space--the bottom of the lowest shelf/drawer would need to be about 5 inches higher than the bottom of the cabinet. Or I could have a drawer on the bottom but place the lowest hinge 5-6 inches from the bottom. Or I could not worry about the placement of the hinges/drawers and mount the slides on spacers/cleats. But if I'm going to the trouble of doing that I think it makes more sense to use:
2. 'Standard' concealed hinges like Blum 120 degree for frameless. For near full overlay, these will allow the door to open leaving a protrusion of 11.5 mm, with the hinge protruding from the side 20.5 mm (I looked this up on the Blum site). So if I didn't want to worry about placement of hinges and drawers, I would mount on spacers that are thicker than 20.5 mm.
Those of you who've made cabinets and pantries with sliding shelves/drawers--have you wrestled with this issue, and what did you end up doing (and why)?
--Rob